You are probably using a lacquer based paint over an enamel paint and the stronger solvent, lacquer, is eating into the softer enamel. Let everything dry out thoroughly, then use an enamel paint, which takes much longer to dry.

Calliope, the pines I mentioned are a windbreak which the owners can just ignore, as they have several acres of them,, so they probably won't be happy for someone taking them, it won't affect them much. They may think I have lost my marbles if I ask for them. It bothers me to have my Chestnut oak mulch ring 2/3 done, and the unfinished area so bare-looking, with a mostly decomposed hardwood mulch pie shaped slice. Well, I made it enourmous. I think I will just rake up from our white pines to finish. I think next fall I will put an add in the paper or a local trade/buy catalog for pine needles and pay $1.00 a garbage bag-ful. I won't have to keep checking the public leaf dumps (2 of em) and I can still use leaves, which are always plentiful at the leaf dumps. I can get my quota of them easy that way. I will of course gather them up if I can find them at the leaf dump. My mom's brother works at the township shed, where they collect leaves at one site, but he is too important to help me with collecting needles and leaves. They burn them instead. Or I need to get there soon after they are dumped. All I asked for is a heads up when there is a good pile of them, Well, I will use ours to finish the chestnut oak circle, and tackle others next spring, if needed. I don't mean to whine, although I have.

From: livestrong.com How to Support Sagging Breasts The right bra fit makes all the difference for sagging breasts. Sagging breasts are a natural part of the aging process for women. As you get older, your skin elasticity decreases, which allows it to stretch. Combined with the weight of your breasts and the pull of gravity, breasts will sag. Breast sagging causes problems with appearance since the breasts hang lower as they sag. Sagging breasts can also be painful if the weight of the breast doesn't have proper support due to the weight of the breast pulling on the skin. A properly fitted bra can support sagging breasts. Step 1 Measure around your ribcage. Wearing a comfortable, non-padded bra, wrap a measuring tape around your ribcage, starting at zero, right at your bra line. Make sure the tape is straight and doesn't sag or ride up in the back. Without squeezing, read the number in inches on the tape where it meets with zero. Round up any fractions to the next highest number. Step 2 Calculate your band size. If your ribcage measurement was an even number, add 4. If it was an odd number, add 5. This is your band size in inches. In order to support sagging breasts, the band has to fit perfectly. Step 3 Note your bust measurement. Using the measuring tape, wrap it around the fullest part of your bust, starting with the zero end. Read the number on the tape in inches where it meets the zero. Round up if you're not exactly on a number. Step 4 Find your cup size. Subtract your band size from your bust size. The difference between these numbers indicates your cup size. A 1" difference is an A cup, 2" is a B cup, 3" is a C cup, 4" is a D cup, and so on. Properly fitted cups provide support to sagging breasts. Step 5 Choose bras with support. Underwire bras support sagging breasts with a thin wire to hold breasts up. In order to support breasts, avoid very stretchy or camisole-type bras. These offer little more than coverage and won't hold breasts up. Good support comes from sturdy materials that have only a little give in them and molded cups to keep breasts in place. Step 6 Toss your old bras. Bras that have lost their elasticity are not supportive, even if they are your correct cup and band size. Over time, bras stretch out, letting breasts sag.

Hi Muffin, I'm gonna copy my Gardening with Skybird sheet below, and if you planted them like it says, they should be just fine--by next year if not this year! The part of the rhizome that blooms dies after it finishes blooming, so I don't believe it's possible for them to "get too old." I've has some trouble with mine this year, I think because of the very warm winter, and then with the rapidly changing temps since it got to be "spring!" And the ones that are blooming have way less flowers than in past years, and they're smaller and kind of "battered" looking for the ones that bloom early. The later blooming ones, just starting now, are more normal size and look better, but still fewer blooms, I suspect because of our winter weather for some reason. It's also possible you have later blooming varieties that just haven't started to bloom yet, OR, they might still be in Recovery from being transplanted last year. Read this and possibly you'll find an answer that I didn't just speculate about! ~~~ Gardening with Skybird ~~~ Planting, digging and dividing German Iris German Iris grow from rhizomes, which are thick, fibrous stems that have roots growing from their bottom where they’re in contact with the soil. The “clusters” of foliage that grow at intervals along the rhizomes are called “fans.” When planting German Iris the top of the rhizomes MUST be exposed on the surface of the soil—or the plants may not bloom for you. When planting rhizomes with established fans on them it’s easy to see which way to plant them, but if buying just the bare rhizomes in spring, look for the “eyes” on the rhizome pieces (similar to a potato eye) and plant them with the eyes on the top side. The rhizomes CAN be covered (lightly) with a bark/wood mulch after they’re planted without interfering with their blooming. Overcrowding is another thing that can prevent them from blooming, so if you have an old, established patch of Iris and they’re not blooming, or not blooming well anymore, dig them, divide them, and replant them with more space between the rhizomes/fans. To do this, when the soil is moist—to make it easier on both the plants and you—dig the entire clump up and shake off most of the soil, then take a SHARP knife (or GOOD scissors—you want a “clean” cut) and cut the rhizomes into small pieces with one or two fans on each piece. Let them lay for a bit—out of direct sun—so the cut surfaces can “air dry,” and then replant them in either the same location, but more spaced out, or in a new location. If the new place isn’t ready, they can be left out of the soil for several days—put them in a plastic bag that allows for good air circulation and keep them in either the refrigerator (where they can be kept for weeks) or a cool, dark place until they can be replanted. Remember to keep the rhizome exposed on the surface when you replant them! If you do this you’ll probably be amazed by how many “pieces” you wind up with to replant, so you’ll have lots left over to share with friends and family! If you want to get “as many pieces as possible,” you can also plant pieces of rhizome that have no eyes at all on them (if they’re at least a couple inches long) and, while they’ll take “longer” to start growing, they will eventually form eyes and start to grow new fans just like the pieces that already have fans on them! When digging/replanting an established plant cut the fans down to just a few (2-6) inches to make it easier for the rhizomes to recover and root into the soil well again, and also to make it easier to keep the fans “standing upright” when you replant them—since the top of the rhizome is exposed there’s very little “stability” until they root into the soil. When digging Iris to divide/replant them do it VERY early in spring or else wait until they finish blooming or you may not get any flowers that year. Since they bloom in spring, if you wait till they’re done blooming you could be getting into hot summer by the time they’re done, so in that case it might be best to wait till fall to dig and divide them—unless there’s a reason why you need to do it as soon as possible. If the fans are cut down to a couple inches Iris rhizomes won’t be as “affected” as other perennials if planted in the heat of summer. With German Iris, after a specific "part" of a rhizome blooms that entire fan and that “part” of the rhizome will die! If you watch a plant over the years, the "center" will gradually "die out" and the new growth and blooms will be toward the "outside" of the plant—like so many other perennials! By the time it's finished blooming the main rhizome has grown "longer" and that's where the fans and flowers for subsequent years will be formed. When cutting dead flowers off of the plant after it blooms you can cut the entire stem AND that entire fan down to the ground/rhizome—if you leave it on it will gradually start to brown and look worse and worse over the summer anyway, so by getting rid of the whole fan you can keep the plant looking as good as possible for the rest of the summer. If you just want a couple pieces of rhizome to give away sometime, gently loosen the soil below some of the “outside” rhizomes with a shovel or trowel, then cut the rhizomes loose from the main plant with a sharp knife, and if the soil is wet you should be able to pull the rhizome with the roots attached out of the soil, leaving the rest of the rhizomes undisturbed. © Shawn Dayton 2016 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Hope something in that helps you, Skybird