Ya, I agree. That's why I would have liked to see some pictures. But in case the original poster couldn't post them, I wanted to post some links to descriptions and pics so they could see if that seems like what they are experiencing. Also as you mentioned regardless, that doesn't mean there is only one issue they are dealing with or not. But I'm guessing that at the time of the original post when noticing the irregular light blotches, as well as the grayish spots, simply noticing if they were a fuzzy or dusty substance was as you mentioned, just an oversight or missing information. And the light blotches wouldn't necessarily need to be fuzzy or dusty for the downy mildew on the tops of the leaves (where I think they were noticed), so assuming they are on the tops of the leaves, and the fungus is on the bottom of the leaves, it sure seems to fit the situation. Even though the fungus needs to be growing to propagate the spores, the spores will only need air current to travel, and the spores are seeds that will survive winters. Once they make it into a greenhouse, it's not winter for the spores anymore, and will germinate anytime conditions are favorable. The downy mildew even prefers "cool" moist conditions, and can also cause the leaf curl (that's being experienced). But the reason that I don't really focus on the statement about the brown roots is mainly because there are brown roots, and then there are brown roots. Everyone's idea of what's brown is, is different. Basically there are many shades of brown, and the original posters statement was "the roots are getting a brownish tint." To me that suggests that they seem to be going form a solid and/or bright white that they are used to seeing, to a slight off-color (brownish). And as I mentioned, older roots tend get a brown tint anyway. The poster never said how old the plants were that I remember, and I assume they are not exactly young plants. Also some nutrients will naturally give the roots a brownish tint as well, even if so. So without any more information or pictures to go on, I simply don't see the statement of the roots getting a brownish tint as a problem or issue at this point. But that's not to say it isn't the first visible sign of a problem, or even to say that there isn't another issue going on as well.

What? How the heck do you get CalMag deficiency from that post? Your problem isn't CalMag. Maybe you do need CalMag, but nothing in your post suggested it. Your post did, however, suggest you have weak lighting that won't allow the fruits to get big. Your post here doesn't mention it, but I do recall you mentioning in a previous post that you use T5's. I experimented with T5 lighting versus sunlight with cherry tomatoes. I also tried Brandywines (my absolute favorite tomato), but not as part of my experiment. I discovered without exception that the T5 lighting produced tomatoes that were significantly smaller than tomatoes grown in the sun using the same nutrients, water source, and system. Actually, I used 2 different nutrients. I had two cherry tomato plants inside, so I used Botanicare and GH on one of each. I did the same to each of the two outdoor plants. Difference in nutes didn't affect plant growth, but I did have to adjust pH more with GH. The plants in the sun also didn�t experience near as major of pH swings as the ones under T5 lighting in general. Outside, I had to do little pH adjustment. The tomato plants outside got twice as big, produced twice as many flowers (actually, it was over twice as many), had much denser vegetation, and the tomatoes were twice as big (3/4 of an inch compared to 1 1/2 inches). The indoor tomatoes didn't taste nearly as good. The plants were all from the same mother plant, so they were genetically identical, too. Moral: Small fruit is often a direct result of poor lighting. You will get smaller tomatoes on a bush variety. A fast growing vine like Brandywines require even more light.

The brown crispy edges on the leaves can be two things, actually three. Did it have them before you sprayed it with the fungicide? if not, it might be leaf burn because of the type you used. If you're fertilizing once a week, and not leaching the soil to the point where water runs out the bottom holes, then it's probably a build up of fertilizer (salts) and your roots are also being damaged. To fix that, fertilize every other week and flush the pot with water in the week in between. It could also be lack of humidity, but if you were having some kind of a fungus problem that might not be it. Also most plants like to be watered before the point of wilting, but just before. I know it's hard to judge that, but that wilting can also cause leaf damage. I'd have to say overall it looks like a great plant for indoors...Congratulations!

Compost Pile Potato Garden - 2011. So in 2011 I dug out all the finished compost and used it when planting perennials, and when I “planted” my Kitchen Variety potatoes, I started with more unfinished compost—and I’ve gradually evolved to “mostly” unfinished compost! Now I mostly take something like some of the maple leaves that have been laying out there in bags all winter, but enough water has gotten into the bags that they’re saturated and maybe just starting to decompose—and usually have a buncha worms in them, and after putting the potatoes down in the bottom on the bare soil, I fill the “potato garden” up to the top with the leaves—or anything small enough that’s easily accessible on The Pile! The whole thing is quite small, I really don’t have room to plant more, but they’re SO good I can’t imagine being without them anymore! And I’ve NEVER planted a real live “seed potato!” Everything I’ve planted were the store bought potatoes I had in my cabinet that had started to grow! Right now I have some in the cabinet that need to be planted—and I’m serious! I almost did it a couple days ago, and then found out it was gonna get COLD, so I decided to wait till it warms up later in the week! I’ll plant them and then throw a couple bags of maple leaves on top of them to keep them from freezing too badly! The one year I know some of the ones growing in the compost pile had been out there all winter—and they didn’t have any special protection—they were just wherever they happened to land in the pile! When the weather starts to warm they’ll start growing, and I’ll remove the bags to see if there’s anything there yet every now and then, and if they start growing “too early” and I need to take the bags off, I just dump a pile of loose maple leaves on top of them if it’s gonna get “too” cold. I’m not paying for seed potatoes, so if they do buy it, I really haven’t lost anything, but that hasn’t happened yet! Try it, you’ll like it! They are SO easy to harvest, and they come out so nice and clean! Skybird