Hi, I believe plant 4 is Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule). I guess some consider it a weed. I quite like them. They are edible, I snack on it as well as purslane. Just verify through search that it is indeed Henbit, if you plan to eat it. I know they have a square stem and small purple flowers.

In my collection, this is what I've experienced... Good tropicals that will freeze down but return include: Bananas (Cavendish) Brugmansia spp. Clerodendrum ugandense Erythrina crista-galli Bauhinia acuminata Tecoma stans Plumbago auriculata Sophora tomentosa Tibouchina urvilleana and for the most part Caesalpinia pulcherrima. Plants that will not usually freeze down, but go partially/fully deciduous include: Bananas (Orinoco) Ensete glaucum Cordia boissieri Bauhinia bartlettii Cestrum aurantiacum Brunfelsia pauciflora Philodendron selloum Callistemon citrinus Tabebuia impetiginosa Plants that are totally hardy include: Bauhinia macranthera Callistemon linearis Cinnamomum chekiagensis Michelia figo Feijoa sellowiana Good palms for Austin in relation to cold damage: Sabal mexicana = tough as nails Sabal palmetto = tough as nails Sabal minor = tough as nails Washingtonia filifera = tough as nails Chamaerops humilis = tough as nails Washintonia robusta = hardy, occasional leaf burn Phoenix canariensis = hardy, occasional leaf burn Livistona chinensis = hardy, occasional leaf burn Chamaedorea radicalis = hardy, rarely has leaf burn Chamaedorea microspadix = hardy, occasional leaf burn Serenoa repens = hardy, rarely has leaf burn Syagrus romanzoffiana = leaf damage almost annually If you want to be a fanatic, like I sometimes do, then you CAN grow more tropical species. With some Xmas lights, towels and paper leaf bags, I was able to grow a fruiting papaya, which is currently nearly 10 feet tall.

Thanks everyone. You're awesome. The photo of the pink flowers at the top was one I actually knew...sorry about that (just put it up for pretty...cause I had the post up already for a blog party). All the others were mysteries. Thanks a bunch! This is so much help!

whatever that weed is we don't see it much on this forum. My first choice for a weed killer would be Weed-B-Gone. Second choice would be Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer. Third choice would be Brush-B-Gone. Those are three increasingly effective varieties of the same weed killer. The grass looks more like bermuda than zoysia. Is it still growing? Can you pull up a surface runner and take a picture? Does it get seed heads if you don't mow it for a week or so? Can you take a picture of any seed heads? Where do you live? Zones don't matter. We need the city or zip code to help you better. You need to calibrate your sprinkler(s). Put some tuna or cat food cans around the yard and turn on the sprinkler. Time how long it takes to fill the cans. That will always be your watering time. If you have a zoned system do that for each zone. Once you have done that calibration, there will be an inch of water in your soil. When you get back with your location I can tell you more about when to water again. It won't be for a couple of weeks, so don't get panicky. 60 days is not long to go from beautiful to this. I suspect the lawn had been nursed carefully while it was for sale and now it has collapsed. If you live in El Paso or west of Junction, I will change my story on that. For right now, I would apply a starter dose of organic fertilizer along with the water mentioned above. For fertilizer you can use corn meal, alfalfa pellets, or Milorganite. Those are in order of increasing cost. You can get the first two at a feed store. They might have Milorganite there, too, but for sure at a garden store. A bag of corn meal should cost under $10. A bag of alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) should be around $12-$14. Milorganite might be on sale for $8 but usually it's above $16. The application rate for the first dose would be 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Then 3 weeks later you can go up to the normal dose of 15 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. This should correct any soil biology issues. This is in addition to the weed n feed you already used. In the future stay away from those. If this works for you, I'll be surprised, but fine. Usually those don't work well as either weed killer or fertilizer. If you want to kill weeds spot spray with a liquid. If you want to fertilize, use a fertilizer. The problem with wnf is you usually need one or the other but never both at the same time. The other problem is to apply it correctly takes two people working in close harmony to keep the grass moist while the product is going down. Then watch the grass for signs that it is no longer growing. When that happens give it one last dose of a very high N fertilizer with very low or zero P and K. After that forget about it until April. Keep it watered once a month during the winter. Mulch mow at your mower's lowest setting two times then raise it up a notch for the rest of the season. Mulch mow 2x to 3x per week at that higher setting until it stops growing.