New furnace confusion
ivboy1
9 years ago
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New gas furnace BTU confusion
Comments (18)Thanks all -- Here's a long message--basically asking about the best placement for the air filter and thermostat selection--sorry for the length! Didn't know quite how to shorten this one up. I am considering the 66,000 btu in/54,000 btu out Bryant model in either one or two stage (thanks for the info, Tigerdunes). Funnycide--I also am considering the 310AAV042090 model since it is closer to the btu range I want: 88,000 btu in and 71,000 btu out. However, the 3.5 ton probably is too big?? Talked to a Bryant rep. today and he said it could work but might be more noisy. The American Standard Comfort R 80 series matches the btu range I'd like...just not sure I want to go with that brand (more expensive, etc.). Does anyone know if it matters whether the filter is housed on the side or under the furnace? The contractor who bid today is the first one to tell me that the furnace will run more efficiently if the filter box placed under the furnace and then mounted onto a 18" metal box with a 16" opening on the side where the air intake is located (wall opening with a vented cover at base of the lower stairwell). My old furnace has the air intake on the side and the furnace sits on the floor (cement slab). The only air return is at the basement level of my split level house. There's a vent cover on the wallboard and I've been taking off the vent cover to change the filter. The actual side opening to the furnace is set back from this wall opening (across the wall studs) so I've reached across the wall opening to put a filter onto the furnace opening using electrical tape to hold it in place(!). The furnace itself is accessible via the laundryroom. It's housed behind louvered doors. The filter was supposed to be changed by taking off the front furnace cover but the side holder never worked well. The contractor bidding today said it's better to have the air enter beneath the furnace and go up through the filter rather than enter directly into the side of the furnace. He'd build the 18" metal box to get the filter box and furnace raised off of the cement slab and allow the air to enter the side of this box and then go up thru the filter to furnace. He's the first one to tell me about this information. Any feedback? 2. Any opinions on getting a Bryant programmable thermostat vs. a Honeywell 7 day touchscreen VisionPro 8000 thermostat? I am hoping to decide soon before analysis paralysis sets in... seems to be a lot of choices with this purchase. If I knew I was going to stay in this house a long time then I'd choose the more efficiency options (90%, heat pump, etc)but my future commitment to living here is undecided. Thanks for all the input....See MoreLooking at new system - confused with quotes
Comments (12)Thanks so much for the feedback. The load calcs were software based (on laptops, no letterheads). I used the online tool, however, and they were pretty comparable to what I came up with. Agree on the XR17, I was expecting to go back to him about that. Both would use the existing air filter and humidifier, so assume I'll need the HW IAQ in both instances? With respect to the new line set, it's a great question. The existing line set is behind drywall, so I'm assuming that the plans were to flush and test the existing line set. Quote one says replace, but I'm not convinced he really thought this through. I'm actually not averse to cutting the drywall to get to it - I'm pretty handy with drywall, so if it was worthwhile replacing, I'd be willing to do it. Plans to alter the temperature in the one room would occur after the new equipment was installed, likely working with the dampers near the furnace as all the ductwork is behind drywall, even in the basement. This was the argument from the Carrier guy to replace the vertical ductwork. He claimed than increasing the size of the supply (currenty 24"x10"?) and using a base box return would improve things. In fact, he claimed that not using the base box return with a new heater is against manufacturer instructions. He was the most specific about balancing the system, including coming back and using foam inserts in specific rooms if necessary....See MoreNew Furnace: Lennox Elitr or Carrier Infinity?
Comments (3)I would agree with Tiger, more of an apple to apple would be the G71P and Lennox whole home powered humidifier Carrier Infinity controller is top notch. will work directly with their humidifier....See MoreReplacing an Oil Furnace... Still have some confusion...
Comments (13)dandm2007... My old Magic Chef oil furnace cracked a heat exchanger last year. There was a mild odor in the house when it ran - kinda like kerosene. Sometimes, the CO detector would give a warning beep-beep-beep - although it never went on to the constant BRAAAAAP, which means "get out now!" I didn't have a smoke bomb, so I removed the supply plenum and with a flashlight I found an 8 cm crack on the heat exchanger. It was on the weld between the "inner drum" and "outer ring" (ptimary and secondary exchanger?). It was not easy to spot. The supply plenum - and the ductwork closest to it - had light coat of soot on the inside. It was most noticeable on the joints and elbows. That was the exhaust leaking by the crack. I've dark-coloured log walls. So I couldn't see soot above the registers. Light-coloured walls may have shown some sooting. A properly running oil furnace should emit no odor. I can't smell my furnace at all inside or outside the house. There is NO visible smoke from the chimney. On really cold days I'll see some water vapour, but that's it. Unfortunately, when I first put in the replacement furnace there was an even stronger kero odor from the vents. That was all my fault. During my DIY install, the edge of the exhaust duct slipped under the collar on the back of the furnace. This allowed exhaust gases to get sucked into the return plenum, then right out the supply. It took me a day to figure out I had botched it. Oddly enough, the CO detector never made a peep. Is it possible that the vibration from a faulty power exhaust fan wiggled your exhaust duct past the collar? If your furnace pre-heats the return air over an internal exhaust tube like my Crown does, then you'd get the same kerosene odor that I did. I'm sure your CO levels would go up, as well. A wobbling exhaust fan could have also loosened your chimney. *** CALLING HAVAC and OTHER PROS *** Does dandm's horizontal furnace pre-heat the return like my Crown lowboy? If so, could it be sucking in fumes because the exhaust duct slipped behind the collar on the furnace?? Finally...could fan vibration loosen the collar or move the exhaust in that way? Peace. Marco...See More
ivboy1
9 years agomike_home
9 years agotigerdunes
9 years agoivboy1
9 years agotigerdunes
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agomike_home
9 years agoivboy1
9 years agoivboy1
9 years agomike_home
9 years agotigerdunes
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoivboy1
9 years ago
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