First, the DIY test kits are a waste of time and money. They are notorious for being inaccurate and mis-leading. So either get a pro test done from your local county AG office or don't do anything to your garden based on the DIY kit. Second, most all garden soils will test normal to high in P as most all soils have plenty of it naturally - one reason why most new fertilizers are being sold P-free. Third, most compost can't be your only source of nutrients, especially N, unless your soil also has a very active soil-food web, a good working micro-herd of bacteria to convert the compost to nutrients for the plants. How much N your compost may have in it all depends on what the rabbits are fed and how long it is composted. N leaches and evaporates out of compost and soil very quickly - which is why it always tests low - so it may require regular additions of other N sources or at least of more quality compost several times during the season. Too many who grow exclusively with compost make the mistake of assuming a 1x a year addition is sufficient for N. Unfortunately, given the fragile nature of N, it isn't. But the place to start is with a REAL soil test. Dave

These carbons/browns might also help balance out a smelly too wet pile shredded junk mail or scrap paper used paper napkins used facial tissues empty toilet paper rolls Having a 2nd trash can just for these items next to the usual trash in bathroom and a step on can for compostables in kitchen next to the garbage sure helped us accumulate a lot more paper compost additions. I usually don't have a stash of dry leaves to save up as our rainy season returns when the leaves fall, so they're always wet & better used as leaf mulch or mold once composted. We mostly have big leaf maples that need to be picked up. The other trees are smaller leaves that don't smother plants or lawn.

* Posted by kimmsr 4a/5b-MI (My Page) on Fri, Oct 22, 10 at 7:17 "Some organic "fertilizers" can have nutrients that are not easily soluble which is why things like compost usually test very low in nutrients. However, there are organic fertilizers with nutrients that are easily soluble, manures, blood meal, etc., and these can cause problems with pollution. Simply pouring on a lot of something because it is supposed to be an organic fertilizer is no more environmentally responsible then is pouring on a synthetic fertilizer with a 36-0-20 label. Your soil can also determine whether you could contribute to pollution because as a general rule of thumb the more organic matter in the soil, to a point, the more of these nutrients your soil can store. However, too much organic matter in soil can be a source of pollution, too." Given laws require ingredient content and solubility on the label it will not take a genius to figure out a suitable fall fert. Tell me what counties in the continental U.S. have O.M. greater than 3.0% and at what percentage of O.M. does "organic matter in soil" become a threat of leaching or pollution. Please cite sources.

Whoa. This is what happens when we let well educated people post on worm poop boards. I feel like Lois Lane when she found out who Clark Kent really was. Now you have me all excited. Sorta took off the glasses there sbryce. If we are talking about the "structure of the atoms" that make up vermicastings can I beg a penny for your thoughts on the "Mucus type substance coated on each particle that increases aeration in the soil provides excellent water retention properties and improves the drainage in heavy soils." *1 I think I remember chuckiebtoo once or many times posting something different but in essence similar to "Earthworms excreta (vermicast) is a nutritive ‘organic fertilizer’ rich in humus, NKP, micronutrients, beneficial soil microbes - ‘nitrogen-fixing and phosphate solubilizing bacteria’ and ‘actinomycets’ and growth hormones ‘auxins’, ‘gibberlins’ and ‘cytokinins’. Both earthworms and its vermicast and body liquid (vermiwash) are scientifically proving as both ‘growth promoters and protectors’ for crop plants." *2 and "As earthworms are working their way through the top soil they mix humus and mineral particles. They are turning our soils into a sponge-like structure with enormous numbers of small, medium, and slightly larger burrows and pores. This worm created ‘sponge’ stores water, nutrients and air for the plants and other microorganisms to grow. Scientist call this the rhizosphere, where water, nutrient, and air are exchanged between plant roots, microorganism, fungi, clay minerals, groundwater, and the atmosphere." also *2. Plus "Earthworms have a crop and gizzard just like birds where the mix of food is ground down to very small fractions. Bacteria and antibiotics in the worms intestinal tract destroy pathogens, introduce enzymes (which makes the nutrients plant available), produce plant growth promotors, and much more. By now earthworms have created a valuable mix of nutrients, humus, enzymes, plant hormones, bacteria, and fungi while passing through an intestinal passage of only 5 cm. Before the mix is excreted, the ‘casting’ is finally coated with a mucus so it becomes a strong humus-soil aggregate." three for the cost of one *2. Should we be trying to retain this aspect and not make worm muck? Should we all be working towards individual "puffs" of vermicastings? Is there something in the atoms that speaks to this? I think this coating texture I am looking for in vermicastings is on a molecular or a bit bigger level an advantage to plants. But I do not know why. Maybe I do not need to in order to make nice vermicompost? For chuckiebtoo's excellent photo of intact vermicastings which look like coffee grounds or cigarette tobacco: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/verm/msg041310533109.html?1 *1 is: http://betuco.be/compost/Vermicast%20Specifications.pdf *2 is: http://www.ecocast.co.nz/vermicast If the gods are with me and my fingers do not accidentally hit delete and the solar flare does not eat my post I will be a happy vermicomposter.