Logan seems to be the same price as Rutgers, but UMass is cheaper: $9 vs. $20, $13 vs $35. However it seems UMass, which charges $60 for soil texture, is more expensive unless their test is differet: Rutgers: Sport Turf Golf/ Sports Turf Fertility Test: Nutrients, pH, estimated CEC & cation saturation, recommendations $20 Golf/ Sports Turf Total Fertility Test: Nutrients, pH, estimated CEC & cation saturation, soluble salt level, organic matter content, soil textural class, recommendations $50 Sand-based Root Zone Test: Nutrients, pH, estimated CEC & cation saturation, recommendations, soluble salt level, organic matter content by loss-on-ignition, percentage fines, recommendations $50 *Organic matter content would be determined by Loss-on-ignition for golf course greens, as described by USGA guidelines. UMass: Soil Soil Testing Brochure as Adobe PDF document Standard Soil Test .....................................................................â ¦â¦â¦.....$ 9.00 Includes pH, Buffer pH, Extractable Nutrients (P, K, Ca, Mg, Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, B), Extractable Heavy Metals (Pb, Cd, Ni, Cr), and Extractable Aluminum, Cation Exchange Capacity, Percent Base Saturation. Soil pH ...................................................................... ..............â¦â¦â¦.â¦...$ 5.00 Soil pH w/ Buffer pH .............................................................â¦â¦... ......... $ 5.00 Standard Soil Test w/ Organic Matter ....................................................$ 13.00 Same as Standard Soil Test with the addition of Percent Organic Matter by Loss on Ignition. Soluble Salts ...................................................................... .....â¦â¦â¦........$ 5.00 Includes a measure of the Electrical Conductivity of a 1:2 (soil:water) extract. Soil Texture ...................................................................... .â¦â¦â¦.......... $ 60.00 A determination of USDA Textural Classification by combined Hydrometer Analysis of silts and clay and Dry Sieving of sands. Title 5 Parameters also determined upon request at submittal. Results presented in Tabular Format. Soil Texture for Determination of Title V Sand.......................................$ 70.00 Soil Texture w/ Graphical Representation .............................................$ 70.00 Same as Soil Texture with the addition of a Grain Size Distribution Curve.

Dirtslinger-Where do you live? I'd be interested to know if it was the winter temps, or the summer humidity or drought that killed it. lp-That's the way it looks as though I am going to go. Everybody's comments have given me the idea that with a little (OK, maybe a lot of) babying it has a very good chance at survival. There were a few things shipped to me very late last fall and we already had snow on the ground so I wintered about 8 trees over in the garage. All but one made it, and I think that may have been my fault anyway. I had stuck them out in front of the garage to get morning sun in march, and we got a cold snap and hard frost, and that one was already pushing new growth. It was also the largest, and maybe it took the brunt of the frost? Just a theory... Nikki-Thanks again for all the great info. I'm going to give them a call today and see what they can tell me. They have been selling the Blue Atlas's in Lima area for several years now. However they are selling them at about 6' but in the "serpentine" form, where they bend them left of center then right of center and back and forth all the way up. I had been debating one for about two years now, but don't really like that look. Not that there is anything wrong with it, I just don't care for it. So I finally ordered a smaller on this spring and got it in the ground. From ppl. I've talked to around here, they've had no problems with them. Thanks again, and keep me posted on the ones in Cleveland if you find them. I would really like to check them out. Dax-Thanks for the enlightening info. If there was any doubt about at least giving it a shot (I think I had my mind set already though) you dispelled it. I like your comparison to the PNW! Therefore, I think I may have come up with an action plan. Get the big one this fall on sale (Hopefully it's still there) as well as order a small one and put it in the nursery, and see it I have better luck with one over the other. I can always find a spot for the smaller one down the road, or give it to someone. Keeping it moist wont be problem. As much as I complain about watering, at times I find it relaxing, hose in one hand, beer in the other at the end of a long day just unwinding. Unfortunately, I don't have low spots in my yard. North West Ohio is pretty darn flat. Supposedly there is only like 10 or 12 ft. of vertical drop from the northern border of Allen Co. (I'm about 5 miles from the line) to Lake Erie. By building up my waterfall/stream in front of the intended spot (about 4' High), will that help protect it from frost? All of the elevation changes have been made by me with the exception of a ditch between the house and barn, but it has standing water in the spring time, so that rules out about 95% of possible trees. You also mention the protecting trees to the south and SW, they are large Oaks, with most of their leaves off in the Winter, will they still provide some protection from the winter sun? If that's the case, (filtered sun) I doubt that it would get much direct sunlight during the winter. Just making a guess, Maybe an hour or two in the Morning once it gets past the house and barn, then it hits the big oaks to the south and south west, and then maybe another hour or so in mid afternoon when it reaches a gap in the oaks, hickory's, and walnuts before hitting the woods to the SW and west. As for the Cryptomeria, I wintered a couple over in my nursery last winter, and have planted several this year. The ones I wintered over survived with no problems, however, my Black Dragon has a little browning on it. It was very large though. Probably 30-36" when I received it in late May or so. I think I may have given him to much water earlier on, I let it dry out for a while, and gave it a nice watering this morning. I agree with you on Darren's watering idea. I think that is absolutely brilliant. It is a trick I def. plan to try out. I'm a little over halfway (North) between Cincinnati and Toledo, but as far as what I have planted so far, with the winter we had last year, I'm amazed that I didn't lose more than I did. I think I only lost three trees last winter/spring. A pine came out beautifully, but gave up in late spring, a red bud I planted last Nov. (came dormant, so I'm not sure if it wasn't stressed/dead/dying to begin with) and a Jap. maple that was stressed last fall budded out and then a hard frost got it this spring. Then the Ash Borer has gotten a beautiful ash that was out by the deck. Prob. 10-15 yrs old. I'm pretty sure they have signed it's death sentence. I've been trying for two years to keep it alive, and the only way for it to look any worse next year would be to die completely. If it doesn't look any better, it's coming down next spring. Thanks again everyone! You've been a huge help! Eliot

My understanding was that we would be posting in a thread on the forums but also keeping records and photos on spreadsheet / map Edit: what these forums really need is sticky threads that can be kept at the top. Especially for FAQ and things like the grow out .

Gardengal, I don't know what type of arbutus it is. Is there a way to tell? I've looked at pictures of them, and they all look the same to me (except the Marina, with smooth bark, which these don't have). As for ph, we had soil tested in two locations, about 75' away on either side of the trees. One was highly acidic, the other moderately acidic. I've pasted the two test summaries at the bottom. As follow up on the irrigation, the bubblers near the trunks probably have not operated in at least 1.5 years. I test ran all of our zones and none of them run water to those. They have been hit by heavy sprays, but as I mentioned, we really haven't watered that area much at all. Nitrogen is very low. Phosphorus is optimum and potassium is almost three times optimum. Calcium is low and magnesium is sufficient for plant growth. In the micronutrient category copper and iron are both ample. Zinc and manganese are low. Soluble salts are safe as indicated by the ECe reading of 2.7 dS/m. Soil pH, which is strongly acidic in reaction, is not ideal for many landscape plants. Sodium is elevated and may restrict the growth of many sodium sensitive plants. The (SAR) sodium absorption ratio is also very high and will negatively impact soil structure as it relates to water retention and infiltration. Nitrogen is low. Phosphorus is optimum and potassium is also optimum. Calcium and magnesium are sufficient for plant growth. In the micronutrient category copper, manganese and iron are all ample. Zinc is low. Soluble salts are very high as indicated by the ECe reading of 6.0 dS/m and can restrict the growth of many salt sensitive plants. Soil pH, which is moderately acidic in reaction, is acceptable for many landscape plants. Sodium is elevated and may restrict the growth of many sodium sensitive plants. The (SAR) sodium absorption ratio is also very high and will negatively impact soil structure as it relates to water retention and infiltration.