I'm not sure if you saw the thread I am linking below. It goes over some differences among sinks that may help you in making your sink decision. It isn't always so much the name, but also the size you need (as big as your cabinetry can squeeze in IMHO), the finish you prefer, the configuration (single bowl or double bowl, rectangular or D-shape). So when your countertop guy is offering you a "free sink", does it have what you want in the way of shape, appearance, size, etc.? I think you should look at those things, before just choosing a sink cause of price or cause of name. If you are undermounting your sink, you will NOT be able to switch it out later if you aren't happy with it. I would also look at the dollar differences you are considering. If one sink is say, $100-150 more than another, but has everything you want, that amount is quite small in the scope of a kitchen re-do, even though I know you are trying to save wherever possible. Here is a link that might be useful: Thread about SS Sink Differences

I live in Northern VA and switched from NG to geothermal but also switched houses so I can't give you exact apples to apples comparisons. But here are some numbers. The"old" house was a 1993 colonial 2 story with basement and roughly 2700 square feet on 1st and second floor, and about 700 square feet finished basement. It had a 3 ton York HVAC system for basement and main, 1.5 ton York for second floor. The house had 2x4 construction with pink insulation and was well built for the time but not too good by today's standards. During the worst winter I can recall in the mid to late 90's (remember the back to back BIG snows we had I think in Jan 1996?) my heating bill was 300 dollars. I remember that well becuase that was a big number compared to normal months of maybe 200 dollars at worst. My electric bill ran around 65 dollars per month normally in the winter. In summer, things flipped and my peak electric was around 350, while the gas was maybe 20 dollars for the hotwater. The new house is a 5800 square feet 1st and second floors, and I have a 3300 sq ft basement that is partially finished and conditioned. This house has 2x6 construction with blown cellulose and is very tightly sealed. It has a 12 ton geothermal system with 12 horiztonal slinky loops, a 5 ton unit and a 3 ton unit for the first floor and basement (6600 sq ft total) and I have a 3 ton unit for second floor. With this system, my peak electric bill in winter is around 350 -400 dollars BUT ~100 of that is lights, refrig's etc. So my peak HVAC portion of the bill is around 250 to 300 dollars. In the summer, AC runs a little higher and is around 300 to 350 for the HVAC portion. In non peak months, my total electric bill (HVAC and eveything else) is around 200. So I was very happy with my selection of GT but here are some cautions. The front end costs - even with tax credits - is high. I paid around 5500 per ton for the system (that included duct work for new construction, the 3 heat pumps, the loop plumbing and pumps, and the loop field excavation). I plan on lving in the house for at least 20 years if not more - so I can spread my costs over a long time horizon. This is something you have to factor into the business case. I also had complete control of the build - so I could pay for the best insulation package I could afford. With GT, you really need to make sure that the house is well insululated and sealed or you might be dissapointed with the results. It isn't the same as a my gas heating system where I could blast out very high BTU's on demand. I am very careful on how I run the system. I leave the Tstats on one setting in winter and one in summer - no setbacks. if I had to do it all over again I would have made two changes: 1) install a gas heater as the auxilliary/emergency heat on the main 5 ton unit, and 2) wired the 5 ton unit so that in power outages - my backup generator could power the tstat controls, the secondary heater, and the fan. The way my system is wired, the heat pumps get one 240V feed and then inside the unit, split out power for tstat transformer, fan, compressor, etc. So when we loose power, i loose GT heat. My backup heating system is a wood burning firpelace insert that is rated as a heater - and that works fine. I have to set up standalone fans to circulate the heat around the house. With a little extra work and cost - I could have had a much nicer backup haeting system built right into the GT system. I hope this helps.

Good luck with the purchase! I was actually in a similar situation, but the seller. We had an FHA buyer who was a very nice guy. Right before the inspection, we got a back up all cash offer, where she said she would not ask for any repairs. We would have netted only $1,000 more, but it was still a much more appealing offer! So, the time came for our buyer to ask for repairs, and while most of them weren't a big deal, our agent advised us not to do any of them because we did have a better offer. I do admit I felt bad for the guy, but ultimately, we were looking out for our best interest. Fortunately, none of the repairs were required by FHA and he was able to go forward and buy the house. I will keep my fingers crossed for you!

I have given up on them. I placed an order over a year ago, and the led me on for 6 months making me think they would eventually ship it. They never did, I have been unsuccessful in reaching them since March of 2017.