Ficus can be maintained in any pot size you wish. If the roots are filling the current container, and you don't want a larger container (and i wouldn't, too hard to manage in my opinion), then at the next repotting (this should be in the early summer, when it's warm and the plant is growing well), root prune about 1/3 of the roots, work out the old soil from the root ball, and repot with fresh soil into the same container. Water well, then not again until the soil is very dry or new growth resumes, at which point you can resume your normal care. Every time it gets root bound you repeat the process, but go ahead and let it get root bound, ficus don't mind until it gets ~really~ extreme. I would top prune about 1/3 of the foliage at the same time to control post transplant leaf drop, but some people would disagree. That's what works for me though.

Is the plant's capacity to support its unpruned upper compromised at all by any root pruning that takes place first? Yes, it is. To some degree that can be offset by siting the plant in the shade and keeping it out of the wind. Also, if you're repotting from a water-retentive soil to a well-aerated soil, the improvement in root function and the number of fine roots usually becomes quickly evident & additionally helps the recovery. If, for instance, you have a healthy 3 gallon tree and you reduce the roots by say 75%, you might need to remove a substantial volume of foliage to prevent the tree from seemingly indiscriminately shedding what it can't support. It's better to select the branches that don't compliment your vision for the tree's design than to let the tree decide. Also, you can partially defoliate if you remove a LOT of roots and the tree will quickly replace lost leaves as soon as the roots' ability to keep up with the canopy is back in balance. Everything revolves around the roots - the roots have to be able to support new growth before it can occur. >> Best time to do extensive root work (repot) is between Father's Day - 4th of July. Al, is this applicable to other trees or to other plants in general? I grow tropicals indoors with no direct light all year round. Does someone's zone affect this best repotting window? Plants have internal clocks (search "endogenous rhythm" and/or "circadian rhythm") that tell them when they are supposed to grow. I keep all my tropical trees (about 75 of them) under lights in a basement grow area. There is only one window at the far end of the basement, so it supplies no usable light. Somehow, the trees know when the vernal equinox is eminent and begin to exhibit more vigorous growth, despite the only usable light they get is artificial and on a 16/8 schedule. I don't think the Father's Day - July 4th rule of thumb is nearly as important if your trees were outdoors or living on sunlight, but I'd still say that even if there were no changes in artificial light intensity/duration throughout the year, that the time frame I suggested would still be the best time. If your trees grow actively all year and they're healthy under artificial light, repot any time you have a mind to. The most significant effect of that sort of 'out of season' repotting would probably be a little longer recovery before active growth can resume. For trees that AREN'T healthy, the timing is a more significant consideration. I don't think a growers zone affects the best window much, but I would say that the closer to the equator you get, the wider the window becomes. In consideration of the best timing, I have a much narrower window than someone who lives in south FL or TX. Growers in those locales can repot with fast recovery anytime in Jun or July, and the effects of repotting in May or Aug - mid-Sep are much easier on the plant than they would be closer to the 40-45th parallels. Al

in my experience, rubber trees like to bee slightly root bound, so i would really advise taking a leap from a 10" to a 14" pot. that would actually be quite a big leap for any plant and could easily lead to root rot. when i repot i normally only go up one or at the most two pot sizes.

It's not unusual for members of the Ficus genus to shed leaves when light conditions go from bright to dim, especially if the change is not gradual, as in seasonal change. The misting may make you feel better, but it does nothing for the plant and is more likely to be counterproductive than a help. The link below is to a lengthy discussion about maintaining F. elastica in containers. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Click me & I'll take you to see more info