I would, it does’t hurt nothing. Experience is what you are after. You have to tag each and every graft or you going to mess things up. I just made 16 more beer can tags with a pair of scissors. Just find some juicy limbs and go for it. Knowing you, you will have grafting success in no time, Bob.

We have a set of Sartodoor double barn boors and a set of matching french doors from United Porte. They look gorgeous and go up pretty straight forward. However, the vinyl wrapping on one of the doors is bubbling/separating from the wood and the other came with the vinyl cracked/torn in an area. While they are sending us new doors, it still makes me wonder about the longevity of them. We also got the silk white color and while it is very clean looking and silky, they get dirty from the slightest touch of even a 'clean' hand. Further, they're not paintable, according to Sartodoor so we're stuck with cleaning them as much as we can but some dirt smudges are pretty much permenent; like pencil marks from measurements during install. Some of those pencil marks got worked into the pores of the vinyl and are permanent stains now. The door frame and trim is also vinyl wrapped and not paintable. So, screw and nail holes aren't really able to be caulked because the caulk turns yellow and dingy when not painted and the vinyl isn't paintable. We did paint a section of the inner door jamb where some sharpy marks and extra holes where made after mis measuring hinge screw holes. With Kilz, the vinyl did take some Behr trim paint. However, it is easily scratched off with your fingernail. Fortunately, the painted section is high and in the jamb where it's not touched. Don't get me wrong, they're great doors especially for the price. But if given the choice again, I'd go with something paintable, not vinyl wrapped.

@James Podobea Yep, sounds like we (& prob many others) are in the same boat. I just did a round of repair endseam gluing the other day, so I don't have many pics, but have attached one plank gap that recently emerged. Notably, the creaking occurs consistently on one end of each plank end; reinforcing my conclusion that this is not [just] installer failure, but genuine defective product/design. In our case, putting weight (stepping) on the north end of any plank-to-plank end seam produces a creak. I don't recall wether the 'north end' corresponds to the 'tongue' or the 'groove' segment, but once you know & test it around the house, its incredibly reliable. I've found that gluing the end-seams with tongue & groove glue has been a [tedious] repair solution that has worked with decent success —for now. It stops the creaks, and prevents gaps from periodically forming. The catch, and the "for now" part, is that it will presumably limit your ability to repair/remove isolated sections of the flooring in the future, because it effectively binds entire plank runs together into one piece. This is essentially a post-hoc method of gluing the end-seams of your flooring planks; the 'high traffic' installation directions provided by the manufacturer. Notably, I/we are finding this is necessary in not just high —commercial level— traffic areas, **but in ALL installation areas**. ...a properly functioning plank interface **should do this on its own**, but *that is NOT the case with our Evoke Surge flooring (circa 2022).* I can't provide any guarantees that this will 100% fix your issue, but it has worked wonders fixing the creaking & gapping in our higher traffic areas (in & around kitchen counter/seating, and living room walkways). Repair Tools & Supplies: • 1 'medium duty' suction handle from Amazon; the type used/sold for lifting heavy glass & mirrors (as pictured) • Titebond Tongue & Groove wood glue. (the key is a waterproof glue with a strong-yet-flexible bond. There are various grades of Titebond available, going with the purpose-built version seems safe. I bout a two-pack online, and *one bottle* should be more than enough) • Rubber mallet • Small block of wood; a piece of 2-by-4 about 1/2" shorter than the width of your planks should be perfect. • Start gluing end-seams *in the middle of a run* in which gaps/creaks occur. The suction handle is capable of sliding one plank reasonably well, but once you bond multiple planks together the accumulated friction will become too much. • Attach the suction handle to the last plank in the run —closest to the wall • Gently tap the end of the suction handle with the mallet to shift the plank toward the wall. ...you don't want/need to SMASH it, just tap it along, 1/8" or less at a time **until you've created a 0.25–0.5 inch gap between the end plank & the next one**. This is your *"working gap"* • Move along the run and shift the working gap to the middle of the run • Apply a bead of glue along the exposed tongue of the working gap. You don't need to "fill" the gap, and you don't necessarily want the glue to seep along the side seam. • Attach the suction handle to the plank on the wall-side of the seam, and stand/squat on the plank on the "mid-run" side of the seam. • Gently tap the end seam until the top surface of the boards are juust about touching, but don't smash them together. • With a *dry clean cloth*, wipe up any excess glue that oozes out of the seam as it comes together. • For the final 1/32–1/64th (just barely visible) gap, use the wood block to apply slight pressure to one side of the seam—the tongue side— as you apply the final mallet taps; not your whole body weight, but just enough. • Wipe off any excess glue with a *dry cloth*, then a slightly damp cloth for the final clean-up. ...per the glue instructions, any additional water applied (by over wetting/wiping during cleanup) will decrease the strength of your bond. • With some practice/experience, you'll figure out just the right amount of glue to effectively secure the seam without too much ooze-out. • **BUT its better to err on the side of ooze-out** and clean-up, rather than *unknowingly* not have enough glue in the seam to create a strong bond. ....this is the kind of thing where "you only get one chance to do it right" • Work your way along the run from the middle to the wall, then repeat in the other direction. • Think through any doorway or cabinet obstructions that might be present. You may need to start gluing a run at these 'captivated' planks, then work your way to the wall. The process is LOUD, cumbersome, and you'll also want to be able to not walk on the area for at least 24 hours while the glue cures (*definitely no walking for the first ~1-3 hours after gluing*). Its really a pain in the but to apply this repair over any large area, so working through 2-3 of your most problematic/noisy runs at a time is probably the best way to go. ...this piecewise approach is also why its important to not let too much glue ooze into the side seams; you don't want adjacent plank runs glued together. Example of an emergent gap between plank ends...these arise throughout the house quite regularly: Here's the glue and the suction device I've used with some success to deal with the creaks & gaps

If you have natural gas available that's the most economical with propane coming in second unless you cut your own wood. But economy is moot when heating a screened porch. That makes resistant electric or heat pump the best choices for peace of mind if worried about safety.