The growth rate depends on what climate you're in, too. If you live in a cold climate (New York counts) and have to bring your plants inside for the winter your succulents will probably be dormant for that period. I notice that the growth period of most of my plants roughly coincides with the season which I have the heat off in my house, which is only about four months around here. In 2005 I moved a moderate collection of small cacti and succulents from Phoenix to Minnesota. I figured growth would decrease, but things have slowed more than I expected. You can grow nice plants, though, in cold climates - I have a non-variegated jade which has grown into something roughly like a smaller version one of the stem's of Caudex's in about 5 years. Unless you have a consistently sunny south window, summer inside is probably less than ideal. I would keep the plant under bright conditions in the winter, and put it out in the sun when the temperatures outside get regularly into the 70s. Be careful of sunburn - you may need to work it into sun in stages at first. Water a lot if it's in a smallish pot during the summer, because it will be actively growing and the pot dries out under those conditions. Bring your plant in when one of the following things start to happen: 1) there is a freeze expected, 2) nights regularly go below 40, or 3) highs regularly go below 55-60. This is what I do with a number of my plants, at least. Downsides: sometimes I get mealybugs, which are a real nuisance. Sometimes I also wait too late to bring plants in. I don't let them freeze, but usually they are not too happy if with chilly weather. The other issue is sunburn in the spring, which is tricky.

The common Jade plant, Crassula ovata, is one member of a large family of plants, the Crassulaceae. Most members are from the old world, although a few are from the Western Hemisphere. This FAQ will discuss the Jade plants, and other similar species can be treated similarly. Crassulas are generally succulents, and will usually grow a new plant from a single leaf. Few are frost tolerant, although temps. just above freezing will promote bloom. They grow outside only in a few areas of the US and Europe, so the focus here is on Jades as houseplants. When days grow short and nights are cool, Jade plants in habitat receive most of their yearly rain and also do the majority of their growing. Often times the Jades in the house also react by shedding copious amounts of leaves, leading many people to water their plant. This is to be avoided because the result can be a sudden collapse of the plant. Always allowing the plant to get very dry before watering thoroughly will keep the plant healthy. The dropping of leaves just before new growth begins is normal. To encourage bloom, allow the plant to go without water around the time of the first frost. When the days get short, withhold the water completely and let the plant withstand the cool nights. Several weeks of this dry, cold treatment followed by regular watering will result in blossoms around the shortest day of the year. Regular watering, or nights too warm, and the plant will remain healthy, but bloomless. Propagating many of the Crassulas involves detatching a healthy leaf and placing it on suitable soil. Out of the sun, but in bright light, about a month later roots will form. Watering while the plant is forming roots is unnecessary and can be deleterious if the plant starts to rot. Without roots, the water is wasted as the plant has no means to transport it into the leaf. Stems laid or planted in the soil also will root, the only requirement is that they be sound. Rooting is also easiest when days are shortest, Nov/Dec in the Northern Hemisphere. A yearly cycle for an indoor Jade is usually growth in the early spring, and the plant gets regular water (dilute fertilizer if desired), summer when there is little growth visible and the plant should be allowed to go very dry between waterings. In the fall, around the Equinox, the nights lengthen and cool, and if the plant experiences the cool then water should be withheld, and expect leaf drop as well as some of the branches. If the plant is indoors, it still will likely shed in preparation for the main growing season- the late fall/early winter. When new growth shows (after bloom if the plant flowers), water and fertilizer can be given, but always allow the plant to dry before drenching it thoroughly.

Thanks Erica!! Jades weren't always the top of my priority in my collection, but once they are established, they are very beautiful and faithful growers. Unyieldingly showing great colors and shapes. The variegated breeds are much more tender, I still keep them under lights. When they burn, they really sulk for months. All the photos were taken this past weekend, so to answer your question, these are all their current state now. I believe the 'Red Horn Tree' can get even redder with colder temps and higher light. I think mine has quite a while to go.. This is how mine looks during the winter when I first got it. What is your more moisture retentive mix? I have a similar issue with my 'Skinny Finger' jade and my 'Break Dancer' jade. Now I lose the bark, and I replace it with rich loam, pumice and growstones. So my mix comprises of Turface, Grit, Pumice, Growstones and Loam (I love the fox farm ones). If I want it to retain more moisture, I just add more loam and turface. Almost immediately I see the jades react faster and hold tighter in the new mix. In the winter, since most of my plants were under lights, I kept them in nursery trays, and I water the tray every few days when its bone dry - because we usually have the heater on. The bottom watering method works really well on cuttings as it encourages the roots to dig deeper, and at the same time it doesn't wet the surface soil causing rot at the stem. If you have some budget, try investing in a seedling mat and do the bottom watering method - give bright filtered light (aka behind a window is good enough). My cuttings grow relatively well when all these conditions are ideal. btw - I went to theBrooklyn Botanical Garden Sale, it was MAYHEM! Even on the members day. There weren't much C&S in general, but if you love plants, there were an array of collections. My highlight was seeing a couple drag home the massive $40 jade plant and a couple of giant cacti.

akholt I am not absolutely sure of diagnosis :); but those I would consider. Cinnamon 'fungicide': 2 tablespoons of cinnamon powder to 1 pint of rubbing alcohol (I make smaller amount, you can halve or quarter it). Mix, let stand overnight or bit longer. Cinnamon will turn into 'goo', so you need to strain te sediment (I put it into compost heap after straining). Best is to use either coffee filter or cheese cloth (need few layers). It is quite slow, so I just set a coffee filter over a jar and let it drain. You can use strained liquid as a spray or dab cotton ball in it and wipe leaves/stems. Same could be made using hot water instead of alcohol; but alcohol adds some insecticidal properties. Dark spots will not disappear, the fungicide should help to control the spores. T There are some other home remedies (some better than others, and should be used with caution). Couple recommended for mildew: 1/3 cup of milk in 1 quart of water spray; or 3 tablespoons cooking oil, 1 tablespoon liquid dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon baking soda in a gallon of water; spray at three-day intervals - I never used either of them, maybe they are better in a garden? I like the cinnamon aroma, lol. Ps: soap or liquid detergent help for spray to stick better. I do not like using soaps as they may dissolve natural oils and waxes that help to protect leaves. Vegetable based soap (like Castile) is much better to use. I was looking at the chemicals in Ultra Dawn (very often recommended to use). Here is what I found: Chemicals in Ultra Dawn: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate Lauramine Oxide aDenat. Alcohol Sodium Chloride PPG-26 PEG-8 Propylheptyl Ether PEI-14 PE-10/PPG-7 Copolymer Phenoxyethanol Methylisothiazoline Colrants I do not know what most of these are...looked up few. Too many chemicals IMO.