Growing indoors is a huge job. There are so many variables to consider. First, the water that comes out of the tap is chlorinated, and it has a good bit of flouride, depending on where you live. Chlorine will evaporate out of the water, if you leave the water in a pitcher open to the air for a day or so. temperature and humidity are a big issue too, tomatoes like it warm, top production happens at 85 degrees, and they like some humidity. Also, for pollination, the plants need wind to shake the pollen loose in the flowers that they set, you can use a fan or give the plant a shake every day. that is a picture of chlorine damage in my indoor grown tomato Here is a link that might be useful: My Garden

Just to re-state the problem -- you have two needs: 1. The cages are leaning and need to be stabilized before they fall. (Ideally, they should have been pushed much farther into the ground; you'll want to do that next year if you use them for smaller tomatoes or other plants.) 2. You need something which will handle future growth of the two vines, as well as the weight of the fruit the plant is going to bear before your growing season ends (three months from now? four?). You may be able to answer both of these needs with one strategy, or you may choose a dual strategy. I don't see the need for kterlep's cinderblock. Put a tall strong stake (any of the things on kterlep's list -- but if you use bamboo, make sure it's a good strong 1" stake; those 1/4" mini bamboos won't begin to do the job) near the wire cage and drive it at least a foot into the ground. Then fasten the stake to the cage. You'll probably want to use at least two stakes. Position them on the opposite side of the cages from the direction the cages are leaning. If you have difficulty getting the stake down that far, pull it out of the ground, fill the hole with water, wait for the soil to soften, and repeat as necessary until the stake is buried deep enough. It's not quick, but it works, and is a good method for short people. Think about the best place for you to put the vines' future growth. Keep in mind that you want to be able to see and reach the fruit (present and future) easily. Your options will include: = tying new growth to the top of a tall stake, as kterlep suggests. = letting new growth fall under its own weight, as is already happening. Of course, you're in for 3-4 months of new growth. = encouraging the plants to grow horizontally by tying multiple lines of twine from the stakes/cages to the fence. Gently tie new growth to the twine. [You could also use a small piece of the sort of garden netting that is usually used to trellis cukes, beans, etc.] = pruning the vines is another option. How much or how little you prune is up to you, but your pruning strategy should match how you decide to support your plant. And keep in mind that in your climate, flowers that set fruit in mid or late September will ripen before frost, so you'll probably want to leave at least a few branches to flower and grow you some late tomatoes. [Obviously I don't know where in GA you are or when your last frost will occur.]

definitely looks like atmospheric ozone (pollutant) effect. Growing where there is limited air circulation as on a balcony can trap pollutants, especially overnight. A plant that could grow to 20' needs more room for it's roots than what you're providing so it is already suffering. The patio tomato varieties will probably work better for you next year.

Yeah, growing tomatoes is totally different here in Florida. Those plants are done for. The good news is.... you now have two tomato seasons. Depending on what region of Florida, you should have new plants ready to be planted now. June is late for any part of florida, the temps are way too hot by then. Also, you might not want to do two plants in that container. I'm fairly new to gardening, but I've had pretty decent results with tomatoes in Florida, thanks to the experts on here and local growers. Definitely check out the Florida extension website http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/m/