Need advice on combining induction and gas
jdsb2
9 years ago
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Kaseki, need your help!! Space between induction cooktop and gas hob
Comments (19)Looking down on the cooktop it is quite visible; it is a trick of shallow angle lighting that yields the effect in the photo. What you mainly see is a reflection of the riser soapstone. I'm pretty sure that you will want at least a 42-inch cabinet under the 36-inch cooktop to provide room unless you cut away some of the joining sides of smaller cabinets. For example, some induction units like those from Electrolux are actually 37 inches wide above the countertop and their hanging "guts" would be very tight in a 36-inch cabinet. A 36-inch cabinet with 3/4-inch sides will be only be 34.5 inches wide inside. Check out the cooking units' cut-out dimensions and be sure that they fit inside whatever configuration you are evaluating. That said, no one insists that the cooktops be exactly centered in each cabinet (whether loaded with drawers or having doors and whatever you want inside). With an array of drawers as shown in your CAD drawing, I think you can visually get away with a non-aligned countertop arrangement. Even if the cooktops were biased toward the adjoining cabinet sides, 36 + 15 + 5 = 56 and this is not going to allow the desired minimum hood size overlap of 3 inches on each side with a 60-inch hood. You would have to go to tighter spacing between units or use a larger hood. However, because you have side cabinets providing some skirting to the rising effluent, you may be able to get away with a 60-inch hood, but I would then err on the high side for total flow rate to allow the countertop itself to help direct air flow inward from the sides. Front-to-back depth of the hood aperture must be such that the aperture overlaps the locus of front pan base areas by at least 3 inches. This affects hood size and cooktop placement in the countertop. kas...See MoreVenting needs for induction with gas burner: Kas?
Comments (13)Ah, but depending on how the cabinets below are arranged, and how much strength you want supporting the stone (if present), some space may be needed driven by other factors than the cooktop manufacturer. I recommend graphically laying out the cooktops on the intended cabinets with cabinet walls noted vs. the part of the units that are below the counter, and minimum allowable stone widths accounted for. Based on that result, then follow the next paragraph in sizing the hood. Front to back requirements will also depend on where the cooktops are located relative to the wall and whatever counter depth you decide to use. The hood capture aperture should overlap the cooking surfaces (contour locus of all pan base boundaries using likely pan sizes). When mounted on an exterior wall, the overlap amount is applicable to the sides and front. I would call for around 5 inches from the pan bases, or the standard 3 inches from the cooktop edges. This depends on hood aperture height above the cooktop, because the cooking plume expands as it rises, and overlap of at least ten degrees of half-angle from the pan bases is necessary for capture of the main part of the expanding plume (6.4 inches at 36 inches height). I suspect you will want a hood in the 56-inch width category. (I have a 36-inch induction cooktop and a Cooktek induction wok with the units' edges separated by 5 inches under a hood with a 61-inch aperture width -- the overall width is 66 inches -- and it captures satisfactorily.) Once the aperture is determined, then you should aim for 90 CFM per square foot of aperture actual flow at max blower power, and this will require somewhat more for the listed (zero static pressure) blower capability. With open windows and minimal duct direct exhaust, most pressure loss will be from the baffles, and maybe you can get away with a factor of 1.3X rather than my usual WAG of 1.5X for the multiplying factor. Hood height may or may not matter, depending on the design. Height above the cooktop should clear the bending cook's head. Very thin hoods will tend to have uneven flow across the aperture unless deliberately gagged by their filter design. We can make observations about any hood you are interested in, but for least controversy, aim for hoods that vaguely approximate commercial hoods, often designated "Pro" hoods. kas...See MoreRange advice - stick with induction or switch to gas?
Comments (23)hvtech's advice strikes me as spot on. As you say, with a friend who could help open the control panel on your 7 y.o. range, what do you have to lose? All the better if it turns out that the control internals just need a little cleanup and drying. The one caution I offer is this: if you do find a problem with one board, keep checking the other boards and connections, too. Most major brand stoves these days (induction and otherwise) have multiple boards and a failure in one sometimes cascaded to or from others. You want to rule out that possibility before you start spending money on replacement boards. FWIW on buying a replacement stove, the Kenmore induction ranges are rebadged variants of Electrolux/Frigidaire's own branded products. On the question you asked about whether to consider maybe replacing your present stove with a gas range, I'll offer a couple of considerations to ponder. One of them is that you can get 30"-wide gas and dual fuel ranges with all of what you called the "bells and whistles ... I would like to keep, built in temperature probe, convection, warming drawer, sliding racks." The trade-off is that they all run on circuit boards, too. Those electronics are as expensive to replace than and may or may not be significantly more durable than the ones in induction ranges. I discovered this some years ago when a board failure knocked out my ten y.o. GE DF stove and the parts cost of replacement boards was going to be $800 to $1500 depending on how many of the boards needed replacing. We might suspect that gas ranges will be less likely to suffer from early board failures because the major brand gas stoves mostly do not have as much "electronica" as induction ranges. Basically, most gas ranges do not need electronics for the stove-top burners to operate. In theory, there being less to break there should be less likelihood of premature failure. But, the question to ponder is this: how much better are the odds? Is it only a few percentage points or is it a lot? I mean, it would be one thing if we could say that buying a gas range would give you 50% better odds of avoiding an electronics failure in the next ten years. It would be quite another if the improvement only turned out to be 5%. Unfortunately, there just does not seem to be any readily available statistical data that would tell us if the odds are significantly better or not. Seems to me that getting a major brand gas or dual fuel stove still leaves you with the same kind of uncertainty over the longevity of the operating electronics. Another consideration that I think bears some pondering is that there are some very big tradeoffs if you choose to improve the longevity odds by buying a pro-style gas stove with minimal electronics. One trade-off is cost. Last I checked a few weeks ago, the current Elux slide-in induction range could be had for about $3k. The cost of all new boards would be around half of that. The pricing on most pro-style-minimal-electronics gas ranges, such as Blue Star start north of $3500. The exceptions are the Hyxion-made brands, (Thor and NXR), but those brands are best suited to the self-reliant and are still priced around $2k. In any event, the trade-off for minimal electronics on pro-style ranges is that those stoves lack every bell and whistle you want except for having a convection fan. A further cost trade-off with switching to a premium-priced "pro-style" range would be that you may have to upgrade your range venting which, in turn, would require a make-up air system to avoid backdrafting your wood-burning stove/heater. Add that cost on to the $750 or so for the gas line installation and extra electrical circuit in the kitchen, and your cost go significantly higher than replacing your Elux with the current model. Plllog suggested that you consider replacing the range with a separate induction cooktop over a wall oven. There is merit to the suggestion and it was something I seriously considered the last time I went stove shopping. What deterred me was the cost and work of upgrading the my old-house-kitchen's electrical wiring and the electrical panel to accommodate the higher power required for a separate cooktop and oven. My kitchen had a 50amp 240v circuit for a stove. A separate induction cooktop and oven would have required something more like 75 amps. That, in turn, would have required new wiring and, in my case, a bigger electrical panel, as well. Just something else to figure in to your decision....See MoreAdvice needed on induction side in range.
Comments (48)Brooklyn, Thank you for pointing out the 2 different models, I will look at the lesser $ one. Jar G, I see lots of people switching to induction in this area. The heat output in the kitchen is key here where it is hot and humid most of the year. Also, if you cook a lot, and use gas, the venting needs to have make up air, it is mandated here. Daisychain01, Good point and I agree. Brooklyn, Yes that is true. The chef in my family picked the smaller apartment as the owner had redone the kitchen with quality appliances, not top of the line but reasonable and good, well above the electric coil burners. SG, It will get used that's the point. Bry911, I agree, everyone in my family, lots of younger people, always look at the kitchen appliances. It is most often a decision maker. I don't mean to omit anyone that has taken the time to comment. I thank everyone for taking their time to comment and provide food for thought and help me think this through....See Morejdsb2
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