Hi Mina, I just wanted to stop in and say that I hope you can gain some helpful Information from some of the post here!!! Just in case you haven't read this thread, I have linked it and it may help you!! Sometimes things get so technical and it is hard to understand what everyone is trying to say.. I realize you just wanted answers to your yellowing leaves .. Try and eliminate what might be wrong as others mentioned up thread. Soil choice , watering, light, fertilizer . That will be a start for you. Then you can figure out what type of mix will suit your needs as well as your fertilizer. So many have opinions about fertilizers.. It really can make your head spin!! Lol.. I'm really serious. I have a lot of different trees and plants, but I don't grow what you have.. So I'm just trying to give some basic helpful info. My trees that I focus on are Plumeria.. These are the trees that are made into leis in Hawaii. I grow many exotic trees that are native to Hawaii , Mexico. Thailand etc. I live in Virgina!! far different from Others that grow my favorites in California , Texas and Florida. I have always had to work hard to achieve the best in the growing season to get the overall health of my trees as they come out of dormancy. My trees have a great fast draining mix.. Learned from these forums.. ( see link) My trees have never been so healthy and I have beautiful blooms from these trees that take years to flower. ( Which is normal when they are first rooted.) .Even for those growing in California !! I also use Foliage pro ( 9-3-6). It really is all that my trees need to have beautiful healthy blooms.. It's has the perfect balance for all of my trees as well as others that I grow. The best compliment I can receive is when the experts who grow these ( godfathers of plumeria) who have written books etc compliment me on my growing ability to grow in my limited growing season... I just want you to hear from someone like me who started out looking for answers.. I did some research, did a few experiments ( fertilizers too) and came up with my way of growing that makes my trees the healthiest and the best that I have seen in years. My trees are mature and are blooming like they would be in the tropics.. Keep reading and asking questions.. You will find such wonderful information. Don't get frustrated .. Growing is such a wonderful experience and I want you to know it can be easy ! Your plants will thank you for taking time to understand their needs.. Once I started with the basics.. Soil and then added the best fertilizer for my trees as well as for my blooming trees.. They haven't stopped. Every year I say this is my best year and I am overwhelmed with the beauty I see .. It will happen... Please continue to ask and you will have your answers In The way your plants respond. Watching them grow and flourish is the best reward you can receive from your knowledge of what they like and need to be healthy. Al has really been a great teacher and I'm thankful for all that he shares... Sorry to break in.. Just wanted to say a few things to help you. Please dont get discouraged.. Growing is a wonderful thing and your plants will love you for the time you take to understand their needs... Mine did and still thank me everyday with new flowers!! Mahalo!!! Here is a pic for you, Mina!! This is one that just opened up a few days ago!! Just wanted you to know that others read these post and we are here to help you too ! ;-) Have a wonderful night!!! Laura Here is a link that might be useful: Good Growing Pratices- An Overview For Beginners

I tend to disagree with some of the advice in that link: sand for play boxes is usually too fine, it is specifically good packing sand to make sand castles and sand cookies and similar...if it was coarse, it would not stick together. So that info is, IMO, incorrect. You need to find what is referred to as Horticultural sand - much grittier, with bigger particles. Most of us do not use sand at all (very few ppl do, and they have lots of knowledge and experience with growing succulents). You would be much better off reading info on this forum: ppl giving advice grow (and many, like Jeff above), have been growing succulents for years. Our goal is to keep plants healthy, and #1 is usually drainage problem: mix needs to drain fast/well, and soil with fine sand will not provide drainage. Perlite is available to most. It is good idea to sift or rinse it, to get rid of dust. Pumice is anorher excellent substrate, not always readily available. Chicken grit/small granite gravel, is another ingredient excellent to use. There are many more inorganc ingredients that could be used. MG bagged potting soil is considered not good enough and many will not use it (including me). You could make much better draining mix by using just sifted perlite and Cactus&Succulent soil in 1:1 ratio. If you already have MG soil and want to use it, I would suggest to add even more perlite (60-80%). If you have pumice, use it instead of perlite. Or mix it with perlite, and use much less soil. Adding grit helps a lot. Grains of different ingredients should be approx. of same size: 4-6mm is good. It could be tad smaller, but, IMO, 2mm or less is too fine. Over 6mm gets to be too large. Many succulets do not need very large pots. Try to find out where some grow naturally: most in very 'rocky' areas, with literally no soil (or very little), and many on and in-between the rocks: tight spaces. So size of the pot is not always a problem. Bigger is not neccessarily better :) Repoting is usually not needed every year, and if repotting, it is better to go up just a bit - if plant needs it. Succulents could be grown in large pots - but drainage is even more important. Lots of water retaining soil that will fill up large pot will take very long time to dry up and cause lots of damage. If you provide good drainage (and have space for it), you can grow tiny plant in a wine barrel.... There is ton of info here, from good and experienced growers. Not like on some blogs, that offer incorrect info (at least partially) - often not based on experience, but incorrect info passed down. ETA: I just re-read blog you posted link to: here is contradicting info offered within 2 or 3 paragraphs: ..."The type of sand I buy is just the stuff they sell for use in a sandbox (I buy it at either Home Depot or Lowes)"... ..."Just don’t use sand from the garden, the beach, or a sandbox (you never know what nasties will be in that sand)"... Do not use play sand - either from the bag or a sandbox... Anything will work for short period of time. But if you want to grow succulents for a long time, keep them healthy - try to provide good drainage and good light.

I took my plant out and cut some of its root until they were white and covered the roots with some cinnamon as I don’t have the anti infection root medicine/powder. The plant has been shedding leaves and this is how it looks. It’s been a day and it’s been drying like this. The bottom part of the stem looks wet but it still feels hard.what should I do next. Leave it dry like this for some more time or repot it in the new soil? I waters it last Saturday a week ago so whene should I water it. The bottom looks wet so should I cut the stem from the bottom to stop the rotting or will be the plant do fine without doing it? It’s only the bottom now that looks like it’s holding water and is wet. Pls tell me what should I do? Should I propagate the stem. What do you think about the success rate of the plant to live or it’s late. If it’s late Ashokji I propagate the food stems and cuttings. Will the rotting continue upward or will it stop moving up in some days. If it won’t stop I can cut the stem where it feels fine and shows no symptom of rotting . Will this option help or doing nothing will stop the rotting going up. The roots now are hard looks white on the inside and outside both. The second photo shows till where it looks wet but still feels hard. Pls reply so that if something had to be I can do it right away as I don’t want to late.

Your Barrel cactus I would cut right above the parts that look rotted. Use a clean sharp or serrated knife. When you cut the cactus check the flesh on the cutting. If there is no brown or rotten parts you don't need to cut anymore. If there is even just a little brown sdot keep cutting till the flesh is clean. The cactus needs to form a callus or scab which can take 2-4 weeks. During this time keep in an area that has filtered bright light, warm, and dry. No water till roots form. If you live in a humid area you may use a small dusting of cinnamon on the cut. This acts as a natural fungicide;). Once a hard callus has formed repot into a mix of 60% rinsed and strained perlite or pumice and 40% cactus mix. Don't go checking for roots once you've potted your cutting up. This rooting process can take a month+. The constant disturbing will slow this process down and you risk ripping out newly grown roots. Just keep the cutting warm, dry, and in bright light. You will know when roots have grown, your cactus will plump up and start looking good again. When roots are present you can begin to water and acclimate to more light. The bottom part of the cut cactus you can treat like a regular cactus. As long as there is no rot present. When watering always make sure the mix is thoroughly dry. You can do this by taking a wooden skewer and dipping it all the way down the container. If that skewer comes up damp anywhere then wait to water. Goodluck;).