Weather XVIII test
always_beezee
9 years ago
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kentuck_
8 years agobreenthumb
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention XVIII
Comments (229)When it comes to root health, pots with gas permeable walls carry the day. Terra cotta clay pots are better than plastic or vitrified clay pots and fabric pots are better than terra cotta clay. The reason is greater gas exchange through container walls and the fact that an increase in gas exchange comes with an increase in evaporative water loss, which can be a lifesaver when using water retentive media. There will still be a PWT in these pots, and for any given medium it will the same ht in a pot with rigid sides as in the fabric or air pots at container capacity. Container capacity is a measure of how much water the grow medium in a pot or container holds at the moment it has stopped draining after having been watered to the point of complete saturation. The ht of the PWT and how long it affects root function is usually key/critical in determining what opportunity a plant will have to realize as much of its genetic potential as possible (within the limiting effects of other cultural influences). The factor that most affects the ht of a PWT is the size of the particles from which the medium is made. So, reducing the duration of PWTs limitations increases the opportunity for plants to realize a greater measure of their genetic potential. But wait! There's a more important consideration. If you place your fabric containers directly on the ground/soil, from the perspective of hydrology it changes the fabric container to a raised bed; this, because water is free to move through the fabric between the grow medium and the earth, with the earth acting as a giant wick. This means, because of the increase in the force of adhesion in the mineral soil beneath the pot (due to a mineral soils much larger o/a surface area on a per volume basis), water in the soil will be pulled downward with enough source to overcome the capillarity holding it perched in the container. As long as you don't place the fabric container on coarse sand, peastone, or other large particles, the earth will likely pull all perched water from most media one is likely to use in a container. I've mentioned this and the fact that healing in your pots situating them directly on top of soil turns them into raised beds. the only caveat being it's essential that there is a 'soil bridge' so there is continuity of the soil column between the soil (earth) and the grow medium in the container, through the drain hole(s), so water doesn't have to jump an air gap to exit the container. This applies more to pots with rigid walls and is not a factor when discussing fabric containers. Al...See MoreCold Hardy Test Starts TODAY!!!!
Comments (43)Hey Tim! I hope your tests are continuing to show positive results. I would have no problem sending you the formula... there's only one problem The device I use to make part of the formula is expensive and without it, you can't make it. I bought a high-end lab quality machine that costs $2000.00. The cheapest one I've ever seen and you can't trust the quality, was $600.00 and it only allows the processing of small amounts at a time-hardly worth the risk of investment. You can sort of buy this part of my formula, already made but the base product is different and would need to be added later. This would change the process and that is not the true way I make it so the results may not be the same. It is that one process that makes my formula totally unique and unlike anything out there. I'm sorry if I sound confusing or cryptic but I'm trying to not give away the ship-and with it, 3 years of work. The good news is that if it really winds up to be a success, on a mass scale of production, it's inexpensive to produce. I will say that no matter what, any formula will most likely need to work in conjunction with mulch and an anti-desiccant spray (like WiltPruf). Even though my tests on grass say otherwise, I feel that a grass benefits from being closer to the ground and benefiting from ground heat...an educated guess which will be proven true or false in time....See MoreCheapest way to test soil pH using red cabbage
Comments (31)Hi Prairie_north: Very pretty bloom on your mini-rose. Thank you for the l info. that cracked corn changed from pink (acidic) to purple (neutral) fast. I'm happy with cracked corn in the planting hole (did that last year), so is Momscottagegarden (clay soil). I like what you wrote: "The bed around it was originally amended with peat moss, and has cedar shavings on top. Today I pushed the shavings away, dug up the soil around it, put down some sheep manure, and red lava rock." Peat moss mixed with clay becomes hardened a year later. Cedar shavings is acidic (pH 4) that would leak acid down when it rains (pH of rain is 5.6). Since mini-rose is own-root, the roots are nearer the surface, and is sensitive to acid leaching down. Own-roots do best with organic fertilizer, since it's nearer the surface ... some are wimpy like alfalfa sprouts, versus big-woody-bush-trunk Dr. Huey. Red lava rock is a strong buffer at pH 8. I mulched roses with that during our wet months .. kept roses clean. Blooming takes up lots of potassium & calcium to make those firm petals. After blooming, potassium and calcium are both depleted, plus rain leaches out potassium & calcium & trace elements. Red-lava rock in the planting hole, plus on top provide a continuous supply of potassium to prevent diseases, plus more blooms. Calcium is a strong buffer: I use that in many ways: as granular gypsum (calcium sulfate) to break up clay. If it rains a lot, I put gypsum on top of red-lava-rock. But for Dr. Huey-rootstock, I put dolomitic lime on top, since Dr. Huey likes it alkaline. Best ratio in hydroponics setting is equal nitrogen to potassium, 1/2 phosphorus, and 1/2 calcium. I burnt a few own-roots with either salty manure in hot weather, or high-phosphorus fertilizer like bone meal. My best result in hot weather is alfalfa hay for nitrogen. Timothy hay is much softer, easier to mulch .. that's what I plan to test next. I got amazing result mulching with alfalfa hay in hot weather, best nitrogen-source ever, which beat anything I tested: blood meal, compost, Milorganite, alfalfa pellets, alfalfa meal, corn meal. The problem with alfalfa in smaller particles: they gunk up on top, either souring, or hardening clay further. Alfalfa hay is fluffy, which cools and shade the roots in hot sun, plus it's a strong buffer: neutralize both acidic rain, and alkaline tap water....See MoreA test against the weather!
Comments (2)short terms a little patchy but it's still there lol . I have it set to come on anything below 60 but for some reason I actually powered it off. Won't be doing that again lesson learned haha. Everything being dry really did/does help, I experienced that last winter with non succulents. Overhead protection is also helping, a few trees that slightly overhang have kept frost to a min on the coldest of nights....See Morekentuck_
8 years agoalways_beezee
8 years agoalways_beezee
8 years agokentuck_
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoluvtosharedivs
8 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
7 years agokentuck_
7 years agoalways_beezee
7 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agokentuck_
7 years agokentuck_
7 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
7 years agokentuck_
7 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
7 years agokentuck_
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agokentuck_
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
7 years agoalways_beezee
7 years agokentuck_
7 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
7 years agokentuck_
7 years agokentuck_
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agokentuck_
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agokentuck_
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agoalways_beezee
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agokentuck_
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agoluvtosharedivs
6 years agoluvtosharedivs
6 years agoalways_beezee
6 years agokentuck_
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoluvtosharedivs
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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