Thanks everyone. It's an open-air patio, not enclosed. The overhang does have vented soffit :( Also, I've never had a vent hood before. The smells of my cooking are not bad but they do linger, thus the hood. Boxer, what do you mean snake the tube? With a chimney style hood there can be no snaking until you get past the drywall. My problem is that there is a joist in the way. Actually, a ceiling joist, not a roof joist. We are trying to avoid cutting joists. Is there some way of snaking that I'm not aware of that will make a chimney style hood work? I know I can get an undercab hood or an insert and angle it within the cabinetry to avoid the hood. The chimney style would be better for the aesthetics of the plan and let more light into the adjoining room. I'd like to ask him to move the troublesome ceiling joist and reinforce to in order to fit a roof-vent chimney mount style, but that's where the roof slopes to its cramped little end and will be a &(&*^% to do.. I guess we'll see. He does like the chimney style as well, so I'll let him decide if he wants to deal with the joist or not.

Your hood aperture should overlap pan bases by enough to capture the rising and expanding effluent that they can generate with hot cooking. So start with where the pans will be with the range in place, and expand the area by at least (!) three inches in all directions to see the area the aperture has to encompass. The hood should not have a gap at the back unless you use a hood a deep as a Pro Island hood (see Wolf hood parameters) and can clean back there. If you insist on a hood that can't make it to the wall when paragraph 1 is satisfied, then the gap will have to be blocked, and for best results this block should be tilted to reflect the effluent up into the aperture. For best results your blower at full power should cause an areal flow rate of 90 cfm per square foot of hood aperture. Assume that the rated flow rate will not be achieved and bump this number higher to 130 cfm/sq.ft., say, and multiply by the area to get the desired flow rate rating of the blower alone. I can't read Whirlpool's mind on cabinet depth. Your code enforcement officer may have an opinion. Different localities can have different rules. kas

Wow, I had a super busy night and I wake up to so many helpful comments! Thank you all so much. There are so many decisions to make and it’s impossible to do it in a vacuum and think of all the possible repercussions. Wilson853, your drawer-within-a-drawer was my inspiration! I have many of the same pyrex and corningware and your organization of them made a lot of sense! I don’t like having to stack glass items stacked much, and they are heavy to boot. I know I do want at least one drawer for that. I was trying to decide between my 24” or 30” cabinet. Both are int the area I plan to keep that stuff. I think everything I want would fit in the 24” and a shorter width would probably be best for heavy glass stuff. Buehl, the first thing I worried about when he suggested they all be low was things like skillet handles getting caught, then realized we have a frameless cabinet so that wouldn’t happen, but I wasn’t thinking about the fact that it could get caught going back in and ding things up too. That would probably be a very convincing argument for DH since he’s going to be protective of his work! raee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio, yes it would be possible to lower then later I’m sure, but he is not going to appreciate me saying so! Lol artistsharonva, low sides with a high drawer front (these will be 12”) did seem like it would look weird to me. I do know that if you really want to pack a drawer then you’d want high sides, but I am trying to avoid too full, cluttered drawers too. I’m trying like mad to exactly envision where I want everything but I’m reaching the end of my imagination and just wanting some flexibility so I can make changes if something doesn’t work exactly how I’d like, or our needs change later. I do think a drawer insert sounds like more of a nuisance than a hidden drawer because you’d have to lift out to see under it. We’ve purchased the Blum full-extension, soft-close undermount slides (the Tandem with blue motion) so we’re all set there! We have already purchased the wood for the drawer boxes, based on doing full sides, so we wouldn’t save money there but I do think with DH some of it is that it’s a lot of work to set his routers up and get them exactly correct, so if everything is the same height then that lowers not only the amount of work he has to do, but also the likelihood of error. So for him its weighing that along with what would truly work best. Sushipup1 - thanks for weighing in, it is easy to imagine all the problems but its good to be reminded that lots of times you just don’t have issues in real life! Skmom - he did an awesome job! I love seeing pictures of how drawers are organized, it is so helpful! I’ll bet one of the reasons you decided to go for full height is that he did inset drawers with face frames. My first concern with low sides was something getting stuck, but them remembered that we are doing full-overlay, frameless cabinets so there would be nothing to get stuck too, except ,as I realized with Buehl’s comment, going back in the cabinet. I’m still a little undecided at this point, you’ve all given me a lot to digest, but I’m leaning towards doing my two larger cabinets that will house the pots, pans, dishes, drinking glasses with full-height sides and doing lower sides on my other three cabinets that house the less frequently used stuff that is also of an odder range of sizes, that way if I find that I’m wasting a lot of drawer space for some things we can add a hidden drawer. As long as the back is low enough its also possible to put a drawer inside the larger drawer, but you’d have less usable drawer space and I’m not sure if you’d benefit from the high sides if the back is low. The lowest side is always going to dictate how full it could be filled.

Thank you for your response. We agree that the fridge is in a bad place which is why we want to move it (to the area we would have put the wall ovens) since we think there will be less opening of an oven than a fridge. I understand that wall ovens need to be in a custom cabinet, but was hoping to retain the current cabinets above. I don't have a real plan yet, sorry. But the doorway to the left of the D is the space we are going to open up as a continuation of our kitchen. This is where the fridge will go. There will be more counter/cabinets and then a walk in pantry. This moves the fridge out of the main flow of traffic in our house.