That sounds like what I have. My system is a hot water coil that runs through the oil furnace - there is no tank. Is this what you have? If so, I believe that your system cannot heat up the water fast enough if your flow rate is too fast. For instance, in my system, if I run the hot water for a bath at full blast, it is at best lukewarm, but if I run the shower, it is plenty hot. The flow rate is much higher for a bath than for a shower (darn low flow shower heads). The kitchen faucet is probably running at a low enough flow rate so that the coil can heat up the water fast enough to keep up. Your shower temp fluctuating is because the furnace temp is going up and down between hi and low setpoints and that affects the water temp coming through the coil and into your shower. It doesnt take much of a temp change to be noticable in the shower (ask me how I know!!) disclaimer: If you dont have the same setup as I do, then I have no idea :-)

It's good to understand your skill limitations, although its really not too complicated. Maybe your electrictian can easily do it for you or provide the necessary info so you can do it confidentally. Although grounding the system is technically required by the National Electric Code (NEC), which I think every state has adopted to some degree, I have never seen a new install that meets these requirements. Unfortunately, you would probably be "rolling the dice" again trying to get a DirecTV sub contractor to do it correctly. In the end, it is probably wiser just to make sure its done correctly yourself. Keep educating yourself and you'll save yourself a bunch of time, frustration, and money. I once heard the qoute, "Contractors make money by not doing things they are suppose too". Unfortunately, this is the case far too often as contractors are squeezed to improve efficiency.

I've been seeing a lot of complaints this year on air infiltration issues. As Skydawggy explained above, it's very difficult to isolate the issue without really being there to look the window over. Most of the issues I've seen lately are related to the weep holes some how venting back into the home. I'm not sure what type of weeping system the Bryn Mawr window has. Hopefully they have some type of damper or flap that blocks air from blowing back into the window. The flap will open to let water out, but cover the hole when air tries to come back in. The issues I've seen lately have been related to these flaps getting ice build up and freezing open. The air will then infiltrate the hole and enter the home. Some of the vinyl and fiberglass extrusions have connecting chambers that are open all around the window for entering air to find ways out. I've noticed open chambers up the sides that can vent out through the fastener holes. That's why most manufacturers send some type of hole plug to seal the fastener holes after installation. There are a lot of installers that don't seal these holes up after installation. Make sure the holes are plugged where the installer has fastened the window. Even if they have used low expansion foam and capped the exterior properly, air can still gain access through the weep holes if they don't shut properly. The other big leaking spot is the reveal between the window sash edge ad the frame like Skydawggy talked about above. The sash has to seal up against the frame in order to seal the unit. Yours look tight from the picture but it's tough to tell. There should also be a foam seal at the bottom of the spring track that your husband has foamed. If you open the lower sash up there should be some kind of seal in that track that stops any blow back air from getting up under the closed sash. If there's nothing there to block the air it can blow under the sash and up the track. It kind of works like a fireplace chimney and vents up the open track. See if any of these issues are relevant to what you have and post back. Guy

Caulking can be affected depending on what is used, a silicone based sealant not so much, latex yes. Not sure on Stucco but normally it is mixed with water so would lead me to believe it may, in the Northeast part of the country and I am sure elsewhere they use calcium chloride, anti-hydro or some other type antifreeze product to help. Also the quality of the work may suffer due to the MEN BEING COLD, I knows should not happen but it does.