Have you considered doing a different hood (neither stainless nor matching the cabinets) to make it a focal point? In a small galley I'd go with the least obtrusive (match the cabinets, or stainless undercabinet). In a large open kitchen (i.e., in a great room or simliar) I'd go with the same thing. But in a large, squarer (vs. galley) kitchen, I'd use the hood to introduce a punch of color, even if it's a neutral like black (perhaps with stainless banding). Re cleaning the wood, it depends on how good your insert is and how ornate the wood is. Lots of appliques with high relief grapes and vines, for instance, combined with a lot of billowy, greasy cooking (tossing wet food into hot oil for instance), so that the vapors escape the hood catchment, could be a real nightmare. A simple design, wtih less aggressive cooking, should be fine. As with all other cleaning, it helps if you attend to it early and often, rather than waiting until you can see the crud.

With the right powder coater, sure. But if matching is important, you match the wall color to the hood results, not the other way around. This will not be cheap.

I may have left out some words due to repetition. The number of square feet refers to the entry aperture of the hood. For example, a 36 x 24 hood aperture would be 6 square feet, and would require 6 x 90 = 360 CFM actual, likely needing a blower rated at 540 CFM. Pressure loss not only entails the ducting, but the baffles and the MUA path. Leaky walls are not exactly a free path for air. A leaky house may be sufficient for MUA in practice (given that the blower rating takes the pressure loss into account), but the OP may live where aggressive code enforcement will demand at least a damper in a duct to the outside. The rationale for 90 ft/min is based on ensuring entrainment into baffle gaps that typically are around 50% of the baffle area and have to deal with upward plume velocities of as much as 1.2 m/s. See also the table (Figure 4) on page 9 of the Greenheck Guide available here: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf The discussion leading to that table should prove useful for background information. In particular, the Greenheck method vs. the linear feet of hood edge (all the way around for an island hood) method is discussed. (Note commercial cooking rarely is true island type; even located in the middle of a kitchen the hood is connected to the cooktop via a back section. There may also be side skirts on the hood.) Last, let me point out that capture can fail under cross draft conditions, which are almost always worse for island/peninsula configurations than wall configurations.

Thank you for all your opinions. @Patricia. As it turns out, we are doing a Bosch dishwasher and a samsung microwave, but the refrigerator, range and hood are GE Profile. After much scouring of the internet I actually found the exact application I was looking to do with the GE range I'm looking at with a hood from a different brand. What do those of you with the trained design eye think?