Generally speaking, a 30" oven fits into a 30" cabinet. You have to know the manufacturer specified cut-out width for the oven, and the measurement of the opening in your cabinet to determine whether any carpentry will be required. You can find the cut-out width for your specific model in the Installation Guide under "Downloads" on the Wolf web site. For most of their 30" ovens the cut-out width is 28 1/2", which a Wolf-certified installer should probably know by heart. Now you just have to measure the opening in your 30" cabinet. Chances are good that you have 3/4" stiles on either side of the opening making up the other 1 1/2".

By the way, M series actually do come in 27" in some models.

Only the transitional model will be available in 27". Wolf is doing a staggered rollout of the M series, and the 27" transitional will not be available until 2016.

This post was edited by hvtech42 on Sun, Feb 1, 15 at 6:45

The installer came to my house for a consultation and confirmed the inside opening is 28.5 inches. He said he would just have to cut the side stiles open a bit to fit the oven. I am concerned about having a finished look which is why I posted this question. There won't be much if any cabinet space around the appliances. I was wondering if that will look right.

The both of you are correct about the M series. Wolf does have a 27 inch but it is not coming out until 2016 and it is the transitional line. I prefer the look of the professional line which only comes in 30 inch.

This is a very good question, one that I was wondering myself, so I'm reading with interest.

So, may I add another question to the discussion? Does putting a 30" wall oven into a 30" cabinet affect the venting in any way? Is there a risk of overheating, or is this nothing to worry about?

Years ago, I had a home with a 24" gas wall oven. I had the cabinet modified for a 27" electric wall oven. It looked fine. It's the same process. I wouldn't worry about it. It should work out and look nice.

Thank you for your responses everyone. I am going to move forward with the 30 inch model. I feel better now that the GW community confirmed it will be ok.

I am interested in laughables question as well.

The faceframe is all of the strength in a framed cabinet, so the answer is, ''it depends''. If the installer has to cut away most of the faceframe to achieve the correct cutout, then no, you are creating an unsafe situation as far as cabinet support goes. If he has to cut less than 1/2", then that's OK. But then you run into clearances for adjacent cabinets or appliances. It's why many custom manufacturers do a 31" oven cabinet. It allows the adjacent cabinet's hinges clearance. If there is a fridge in the mix, you also have to analyze it's door swing in relationship to the oven handles, etc.

It's complicated!

GreenDesigns is right that the faceframe of a framed cabinet is important for the strength of the cabinet. However since frameless cabinets exist it is clear that it is possible to have a cabinet without a faceframe that is strong enough to hold an oven.

I have a 30" wide double oven installed in a 30" wide frameless tall cabinet.

So I'd say is is possible for the carpenter to remove part of the faceframe to install the oven, but he might need to reinforce the cabinet in some way, depending on the strength of the cabinet after the modification.

GreenDesigns also bring up good points about other things to consider about door swings and clearances.

I had this done in my previous kitchen and it looked perfect. No problems at all.

I posted a photo of the cabinet that will be modified to fit the oven. The side stiles are 1 3\4 inches on each side. The installer would have to cut off 1 inch on each side to fit the oven leaving only 3\4 inch. I have a wall on the right side and a counter on the left. There are no other cabinets or a refrigerator next to this cabinet.

I have conerns about trimming that much material from the faceframe. The weight of the cabinet above and it's attachment to the wall comes into question. You would need to add in reinforcement. The oven may have issues scraping the wall when opening opening the door next to the wall unless they offset the cutout, which would mean having zero spport from the faceframe on the right hand side. Now we're talking some flat steel support for the cabinet side, internally. It's the only thing thin enough to give support without thickness to interfere with air flow.

You may also need to use a hinge limiter on the base cabinet next to the oven as well. And never ever use the self clean function.

Greendesigns....why do you say that I wouldn't be able to use the self clean function? Also, there is a 2 1/4 inch filler on the wall side of the cabinet. After the cutout, on the wall side there will be 3/4 inch remaining of the side stile plus the filler. Will this provide enough clearance to open the door without scraping the wall?

I appreciate your comments very much! They will help me decide the best path forward.

You'd be limiting the air in the cavity by shoehorning the oven in. There's enough problems with self cleaning even when you do the recommended 30'' in a 33' cabinet. I'm confused by your statements about the wall location and filler, as that isn't what is shown in your picture. The wall is shown on the left side, and there appears to be no filler, just a slightly wide stile. Are these site built cabinets?

Frameless cabinets are another animal entirely! The strength of a frameless cabinet is in the sides of the cabinet, as there is no faceframe. You can do a 30'' in a 30'' easily enough in frameless construction.

I also wanted to add that the beautiful cabinets next to sjhockeymom's oven are pull outs. They needn't worry about clearance issues from a swinging door. Had those been swinging doors, best practices woukd involve both a filler and a hinge limiter if the were hinged to open against the oven, as in the picture of the base cabinet next to the pantry cabinet posted above.

OK, so my oven area was very well designed -good to know! But did the OP say she had faceframe cabinets?

Here is another close up photo showing the filler.

I don't whether I have face frame cabinets or not. I am fairly green at this which I why I posted the question on GW. I want to make sure this is installed properly.

Greendesigns....I don't know if these cabinets were built on site as they were already installed when we bought the house.

Having seen the picture, I think it will be fine. Unless the cabinets sides are exceptionally thin, cheap and weak (as in 3/8" thick) that there will be plenty strength in the cabinet even with the 1" of the 1 3/4" face frame removed. Part of the strength the face frame gives helps to prevent racking, and the adjacent cabinets will serve amply to support that cabinet.

Also I'm not sure GreenDesigns concerns about self-cleaning being a problem hold up. Since the oven could be installed in a frameless 30" wide cabinet, your cabinet will have at least that much room inside the cabinet, and likely a little bit more. (Although with that said, I've never used the self-cleaning function on my 30" wall oven (which is in a 30" frameless cabinet) so I can't say it'd be OK for certain.)

I do think that the shelf that will support the oven will have to be sturdy and sturdily supported. I'd use finish grade 3/4" plywood, and substantial blocking beneath the shelf to support it -- possibly even 1/2" plywood sheets that reach from front to back of the cabinet and from the floor of the cabinet to the base of the oven shelf. Plus one across the back of the cabinet, and a new face frame piece across the front of the shelf.

This is an old threat but we are thinking about doing a similar install. Wondering how this came out and if you might be so kind as to share a pic? Thanks