I went in for a closer inspection in an attempt to grab a closer picture of a bud, then it's struck me... there's actually a "parasitically" attached bigleaf magnolia growing out the side of the tree. So the main tree must definitely be a beech. I agree with the laurel assessment, but the validation confirms it. Thanks again!

Below is a link to one nursery in Quebec that lists it. Monrovia is a supplier of that cultivar here in the US. They may have a list of sources for you. http://www.monrovia.com/find-a-garden-center/ type in your location ( city, Canada ) to find the closest source near you ( hopefully) Here is a link that might be useful: Lemay nursery This post was edited by carol23 on Fri, Nov 8, 13 at 16:54

Drew, as it happens I was WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. It is not a Corymbia at all, but Eucalyptus cladocalyx (sugar gum). Apparently it is common in California, but being native to South Australia, I've never seen one. I checked it with my expert friend Gus from Spain on Hardy Eucalyptus Board. The capsules are actually too narrow for C. maculata, even though they are the same general shape. Apparently the buds of sugar gum grow in clusters of 7 or more from a single point, which then becomes a peduncle as it grows out from the stem. The bark is also not a perfect match with C. maculata, being not as closely mottled. Here is a useful link:http://bp2.blogger.com/_3uQiDL3c53s/SJNAmFMNTRI/AAAAAAAAAzM/9qSdoNoarn4/s1600-h/GIT_Forestry_Eucalyptus_Identification_Sugar_Gum.jpg

A. Nine feet from a house is too close for any tree (except true miniatures or even bonsai). It doesn't have to do totally with root invasiveness; it's also a matter of allowing the tree room to spread, liabilty/safety, soil temp modification, etc. B. The Shantung Maple and Sour Gum are quite hardy (winter cold tolerant) and strong. They are water guzzlers. C. Basic tree planting routine: 1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. 24 hours before planting. Make the hole as much as three times as wide as the diameter of the root ball, but only slightly deeper than the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because most of the new roots on the establishing tree are lateral growing and they must push through surrounding soil. Break up and clean up the removed soil. Fill the hole with water and allow to drain completely. If there is still water in the hole after 24 hours, consider some serious drainage mending. 2. Identify the trunk flare ("arch" or "crown"). The trunk flare is where the roots begin to spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted. If the trunk flare is not visible in its original container, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting. 3. Place the tree at the proper height -- with the trunk flare just above the finish level. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth. It is better to plant the tree a little high, at least " higher and up to 2" higher (for largest trees) above the base of the trunk flare than to plant it at or below the original growing level. This will allow for some settling. To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk. 4. Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm the tree is straight and to make sure that the best "side" of the tree faces the most frequent viewing point. Once you begin backfilling it is difficult to reposition. 5. Fill the hole, gently but firmly. DO NOT ADD AMENDMENT OF ANY KIND -- regardless of your soil conditions. This is contrary to nearly universal (but improper) practice but it is the correct way to ensure long-term success of the tree. Exceptions: "woodland" plants such as camellias and azaleas -- these shallow-rooted plants need an entire bed amended, not just an individual hole; and annual plants (flowers and vegetables) -- also, amend an entire bed, not just a hole. Fill the hole about 1/3 full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Water to settle well. Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. Add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water. Do NOT apply fertilizer at the time of planting. Allow at least one month before any feeding (if needed at all). No B1 is necessary either. 6. Stake the tree. Remove any existing nursery stake(s). Use one stake (smallest trees), two stakes (bigger trees), or three stakes (multiple trunk trees). Two stakes used in conjunction with wide flexible tying material will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk. Remove this support staking and ties after the first six to twelve months of growth. Do NOT keep stakes and ties on trees beyond this rooting period. 7. Build a berm (a raised basin 4-6" high) just outside -- 2-3" -- the edge of the root ball. 8. Water. Soak the tree thoroughly. Wait until the soil surface dries completely (down 1-3 inches, depending on the size of the tree) before watering again. 9. Mulch the base of the tree. A mulch on top of the ground acts as a blanket to hold moisture, provides nutrients, and to reduce competition from weeds. A two- to four-inch thick layer is ideal at this time. When placing mulch, keep it out from the actual trunk of the tree. Mulching material against the trunk often causes decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area, two to four inches out from the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and to prevent decay. 10. If you must prune, remove ONLY dead or broken branches. Do NOT top newly planted trees nor "tip back" branches nor "limb up" (remove lower lateral branches) the trunk at this time. Wait to begin necessary corrective or aesthetic pruning until after a full season of growth. Joe