Can you educate me on Kilim rugs?
10 years ago
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Funcolors - Can You Educate me on SW High Reflectance White
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Comments (6)Thanks, folks. Good advice, for sure. But picking the slab will jump the cost, and make my $1K sink closer to $2K. I'll have to buy the legs and undermount basin a la carte. Which it may come to. But after the kitchen costs, I am compelled to look first at budget options for the powder and upcoming laundry room. Another option is to order the Signature Hardware ensemble (console, sink and slab) and if the slab is awful, then bite the bullet at the yard's scrap slab section. It will amount to a $100 gamble on the Santa Cecila, and I might be able to sell it for $50 on Craig's List. But if I start scrap shopping, I will be looking for a thick piece of carrara, not granite. And then I'll want a different basin. And then I'll just be out of control again . . . . $$$$ I guess the Signature Hardware package is my way of trying to enforce discipline on myself. Strangely, Signature Hardware only sells carrara tops in þ" thickness. They sell Crema Marfil in both þ and 1ü . I asked them why, and they did not know. Welcome to budget shopping, right? ;-) Maybe I will just run by the stone yard this morning for a teensie peek . . ....See MoreCan you please help educate me on this type of deck I want to build?
Comments (5)Pls provide a cleaner set of plans when possible. I magnified what you provided but could not see the detail needed. So a few questions... 1. I understand removing the 3 posts so the wraparound deck is going away. Is he reducing the price for this change as that does result in fairly good savings? 2. What is he cantelevering? You said INTO the house. That is not so much cantelevering as it is sistering joists going back into the house. A cantelever is an unsupported area that extends beyond the location of the last support i.e. the posts. Usually code does not allow for roofs above the cantelever area & they usually don't extend but approximately a max of 2 feet. Hopefully he is not saying he will cantelever from the outside edge of the screen porch further to allow for the wraparound deck. 3. If you just paint the treated lumber arches, rails, & posts be sure to wait a minimum of 6 months for the lumber to dry out. As far as recommended wrap trim materials there are plenty ranging from regular lumber, prime treated lumber (which you need to let dry prior to painting), trim board primed finger-joint, to TruWood, HardieTrim, AZEK PVC, Miratec, & other vinyl options, etc. Just go by Home Depot or Lowes & you can see the price range for these type products....See MoreCan someone educate me on Rosemary
Comments (14)The only reason I suggested to lift the box during warmer periods has more to do with air circulation and thwarting fungal infections. If the ambient temperature remained between 32-45*, you could keep it covered all winter. I over-winter some zone 8 plants here in 6b-5a under boxes, and zone 7 plants just get set on the floor. Evergreens don't go completely dormant in the winter (neither do deciduous trees - their roots grow at temps down to about the freezing mark, and when temperatures are below about 42*F./ 6*C, the plant becomes quiescent such that top growth is essentially undetectable, even though it does occur. If you cover the plant and temps rise above about 45*, it would be very slightly to the plant's advantage to be exposed to light, but the amount of growth that occurs at those low temperatures is so slight you'd be very hard pressed to detect any increase in node length. Something similar occurs in temperate broadleaf trees. When pushed toward deep dormancy in the fall by cool temps and decreasing day length (technically, it's an increase in the dark period that triggers the response), the plant remains in the dormant phase until it has been exposed to enough chill units to release the plant from dormancy. At that point in time it passes into the quiescent phase with no outward indication dormancy has ended. During the quiescent phase, the plant is entirely capable of growth, but inhibited from growth until/unless temperatures rise enough. The above-ground organs of rosemary simply go into what could aptly be described as something of a suspended animation at temps much below 45*. I grow maybe 75 different species of temperate conifers and evergreens of various genera and species. Pine, yew, juniper, hemlock, fir, spruce, boxwood, pyracantha, larch, azalea, santolina, cypress, thuja, many others. All over-winter in an attached, unheated garage, and by choice, I've covered the 2 windows so it's dark except when the OH doors are open. Many of my bonsai friends have dug permanent over-wintering pits for their trees. The trees get watered, go into the pits on shelves after they enter deep dormancy, the pit is covered by plywood, and the temperate trees of all stripes never see daylight until the pit is opened at some point just prior to our last frost date in May. "How would it cope in the dark?" The short answer is, it copes in the dark by virtue of the fact that growth is inhibited by low temps, so the draw-down on energy reserves is nearly nil. As I noted in my post above this one - a warm house greatly increases the rate of respiration while the normally low winter light levels significantly reduces photosynthetic opportunities. Most growers believe that humidity is to blame when temperate plants go down the drain indoors in winter, but what really happens is, the plant starves to death because it cannot achieve its LCP. Al...See MoreRelated Professionals
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