I have a 2 yr old daughter that has never slept through the night ever and bedtime is always an hour or 2 fight to get her to bed. My husband and I usually have to rock her to sleep then put her in bed but she is getting too big to be rocked like that anymore. I tried the weighted calming blankets but she kicked it right off. We have tried Vicky's approach but gave up after 2+ hours of walking her back to her bed and fighting with her to stay in bed. She hates being alone. She wakes up at least once every night around 1 am and comes into our room wanting to sleep with us or play. She is extremely high energy all the time and difficult to calm. I am so ready for Super Nanny to help! Any suggestions for the extremely strong willed/stubborn 2 yr old and exhausted parents! We also have a very very hard time getting her down for a nap. Some days she just doesn't take one at all! Help!

Oh, Rachel, I'm so sorry. It sounds like things are going from bad to worse for kittygirl. The only other thing I can think to recommend is to get her to a university vet school clinic, if possible. That's where you'll find a lot of veterinary specialists and specialized diagnostic equipment under one roof. If a definitive diagnosis and effective treatment plan can be established, that's where it's most likely to happen. Please keep us updated. I wish you and kittygirl the best possible outcome. Laurie

Yes, two years old and not abused either. I purchased the "oops" warranty they always advertise, which as it turns out won't cover anything caused by "poor workmanship" I'm looking at my own picture and I realized the front of the couch is obscured by a worn leather ottoman, making it look even worse. I added another photo showing the unobstructed front of couch

OK. This is not a water chemistry issue, Sounds like your diligent in the chemistry management. You're one of the few!! When we set our plumbing either in the spa or the pool, we have to support the pipe by tying it to a piece of rebar. The pipes are stubbed out beyond the shotcrete. After the shot, the crew will carve out around the pipes to allow for access to the pipe to cut them back prior to plastering. I'll post a pic of a recent build during construction to see the stubbed pipes. Most times we have to chip a bit more to allow the wall fitting to sit back far enough to finish flush with the plaster. Sometimes the supporting piece of rebar interferes and we will cut it out. The pipe is cut back and the wall fitting is set. Everything is pre-measured to ensure the fitting when glued is fully seated and ends flush for plaster. Setting the wall fittings should be the PB's responsibility. Not the plaster contractor. Perhaps in your case the rebar was exposed, the pipes were cut back too far, not extended and the plaster contractor set the wall fittings flush as they were plastering. So now the wall fitting is not glued to the stub and the space in between has the rebar exposed resulting in rust. It will never stop. Chipping out the wall would be a great undertaking and any plaster patching would be noticeable. I don't have eyes on these wall fittings, but perhaps cleaning up the affected areas, allow to dry, reach into the fittings and rough the plastic surface with some emery cloth. A long, narrow wire brush attachment may work well. Wipe it clean and apply some GE Silicone where there is a gap. This may be tricky if it's in deep. A long flat applicator of some sort will help. Apply enough to fill the gap but not too much interfere with the jet function. Allow 24 hrs to set. This won't be a permanent fix, but it should stop the rusting issues.