I just dont understand why these trees get planted if they start to die at around 10 years. I have seen evidence of that around my neck of the woods. Doesnt the short lifespan make for a short term solution? Maybe I need some more input to understand the advantage.

Sherry

You could use those poplars in addition to other young permanent shade trees. When the permanent trees finally are providing shade, then the poplars are done and may be removed.
I am using young dogwoods which you can plant dense and then thin them out over the years as shade is getting provided. Young dogwoods are not too expensive at big box stores in my NY area.

Good question on why a certain tree might be planted as part of a design, as they can be often equally described as desired or undesired.

When you start with a garden design where you want specific solar exposure at a certain time of day, as we want with hosta gardens, these poplars have desired benefits until newly planted oaks, pine, ornamentals or nut trees are mature enough to serve the same purpose ( providing high shade canopies).

In the woods there is perpetual life and death among the trees; no perpetual forest canopy as one might imagine from pictures or verse. Those trees with longevity and hardiness frequently prevail over those with less, but over time all will die off and re-start the forest process.

These poplars were developed for biomass production (basically as firewood) and we have adapted their use for windbreaks and shade purposes. The beauty is they do grow fast and somewhat controlled!

Standard Norway or swamp maple trees, although they grow very well are typically the poorest ones for landscape in small yards or near houses or gardens due to root competition and foundation/structure damage. Yet they are often chosen as they are cheap/easy to plant and one finds it hard to remove that particular tree when it starts to have its negative undesirable properties.

All depends on your design inputs!

Bruce

They sell them in Canada as shelterbelt trees in the prairie provinces and also are developing them for chipping for chipboard sheeting because of the quick growth. It gives a quick result for landscaping until other trees mature. Like these better then my Lombardy popular for shade and much better then the silver popular that makes a white out in the early spring. I keep threatening to cut it down for a couple weeks a year but such beautiful shade in the summer

My Mom's front yard has a center walk to the front door. The previous owners planted 2 red oaks and 2 Arizona Ash, a local trash tree, one of each on each side. The ash were toward the street. When they bought the house, they removed the ash trees. Within two years, the oaks had filled in where the ash had been and were round like they should be.

It gets so hot here that shade is very important to livability. I thought it was a great solution to adding shade quickly and then also planning for the future.

bk

I like to plant poplars until the other trees I planted with them are mature. I find that if I top the poplars after 3-4 years, I can get an extra 2-5 years out of them before they have to come down, giving the other co-planted tree/s as much as a 15-yr head start.

dave

Dave,

I have always managed to top a few that grew too fast for my plans and cutting comfort, as you mentioned.

Also, makes it easier to take down in the end!

Bruce

Bruce, et al....my experience in the past with poplars has been a negative one. I gardened in half an acre of ravine, beautiful assortment of trees, but the poplar roots, even though the tree(s) was attractive enough were really invasive. These trees are notorious for their far-reaching shallow roots and aggressive growth. How do you get rid of the roots once you decide to take it down? Thanks,
Jo

Wrong poplars give undesirable results, as you note.

These special hybrid ones are quite different with a tap root (limited surface roots) and no cottony seeds as they are sterile.

Agree regular poplars and cottonwoods have bad surface root systems, but these are quite different.

Bruce

When you cut them down in 10 years, how much work is it? Do you have to come have someone remove the stump in order to not have suckering? That is, how much work/expense am I creating for the future in order to have the quick shade?

Bruce, if you just took down a bunch of them, how are you handling the root issue?

In 10 years some trunks are one foot thick, or less. When the trees are >30 ft, sometimes that is the issue!

No, I watch the stumps for new growth, peel it off regularly ( the new growth buds) but do not remove the stumps.

The stumps rot within 2-5 years, no problem. No problem with old or living roots; I have used them extensively with hosta without problems for years.

closest I plant them together is 8-10 ft; if closer the smaller ones as they grow out are thinned.

Bruce

Thanks, Bruce. After re reading your original post, I caught the word "hybrid" (duh) ð³

Do you apply anything to speed up stump rot?

Sometimes I will drive a drill or axe into the stump to create added places for fungal rot to grow but it mainly rots as a function of moisture and time.