I have no idea about the pics, though blog.com has a reputation for a lot of down-time. Thanks for letting me know! If you click again another time, hopefully it will work better. Hard to complain much about a free thingie, so I won't. Sorry it frustrated you! The pics here are of a diff plant, but the very same principle. " I am wondering if there's a way to have loose airy soil that that also have enough nutrients without frequent fertilizing." Generally yes, a bigger pot/more volume of soil mix. I would forego the styro & compost. The styro will just cause you to need to water (and repot) more often. Fertilizer is much more efficient at delivering nutrients in a pot which is not a large enough environment for the natural decomposition process to appropriately sustain/fortify plants. Also, as decomposition happens, the result is tiny, water-logged, airless particles (mud.) More about soil/watering. A Dracaena grows so slowly, an occasional dose of weak fertilizer should be more than enough even in the leanest (nutritionally) mix. The mix you described, or any with 30% compost would be too dense for my confidence. The goal of a coarser, grittier mix is to eliminate tiny particles of any type, peat, sand, clay, silt. Think moist particles that have some tiny air spaces between them so there is also oxygen, even when saturated to capacity. It's going way beyond my area of experience to give you a specific recipe since I break the rules I espouse but there are a glut of discussion here about this. I would follow the advice established in those. It gets perpetuated because it works well for so many people/plants. There is a pic of such a mix here, in post dated Wed, Oct 20, 10 at 9:45.

Yeah, I water mine in the shower, which seems to work well enough to keep my tips and margins healthy. One thing to be kind of careful about -- if water that's especially hard or heavy in fertilizer gets into the growing tip of plants like Dracaena and Cordyline, sometimes -- not always, but sometimes -- it will kill the growing tip. The plant will grow a new one most of the time, usually fairly quickly, but it'll leave a dead space where there are no leaves. You can: 1) just try not to spray the top of the plant, 2) spray the top but shake the water out of the growing tip before putting it back, 3) spray the top but stick a paper towel in the top to suck out the water before putting the plant up, 4) spray the top and take your chances, or 5) modify your shower so it only sprays distilled or reverse-osmosis water. (I personally do a combination of #2 and #4. #5 is extremely impractical and is meant as a joke.) I've seen it happen with D. fragrans 'Massangeana,' D. deremensis 'Warneckei,' and D. deremensis 'Art,' but so far only those three. Aside from that one thing to watch out for, shower-watering has worked fine for me. And it keeps them dusted.

Don't be offended, but the "Guaranteed analysis" of:Total Nitrogen (N) 0.01%, Water Soluble Nitrogen Soluble Potash (K20) 0.01%, Calcium (Ca) 2% puts the product high in the upper tier of products least likely to benefit your plant or help you succeed. It contains essentially nothing (1/10 0f 1 % nitrogen and potassium oxide is a miniscule amount) in the way of nutrients other than a little calcium, that if applied without including an appropriate amount of magnesium can induce an antagonistic magnesium deficiency. People have various views about how and when to fertilize because (easily) 99% of hobby growers have no idea how to take and keep control of nutrient management for their plants. What you fertilize with is important. It's essential that plants have all nutrients they normally take from the soil in the soil and available for uptake at all times. Most fertilizers don't allow you to accomplish that without using other products to supplement the primary source of nutrients. That's a headache and often doesn't end well. Also, your soil choice and watering habits are primary considerations in determining when it's appropriate to fertilize. E.g., if you're using a water retentive soil and are watering in sips, it might not be appropriate to fertilize AT ALL, from the period from mid fall through mid spring for fear the level of salts in the soil will rise to concentrations so high it makes it hard for the plant to take up water; but, if you use a highly aerated, fast draining soil that you're flushing every time you water, it's entirely appropriate to fertilize at low concentrations every time you water, which is what I do. I use Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 because it has all the essential nutrients plants normally get from the soil, in the ratio at which the average plant actually USES the nutrients. This is a significant advantage because it helps prevent the badly skewed concentrations of nutrients that end up in your soil when using fertilizers that provide nutrients in a ratio not even close to that at which they are actually used. It's simple and has all plants need for normal growth in one solution. Al

Could be Chlorosis? Which fertilizer did you use and at what rate? What is the light situation where the plant lives? Any other views of the plant you could share?