skip to main content

buying Bermuda seed

9 years ago

We need new grass and don't want to buy sod for financial reasons. There's only about 400 square feet to cover. I assume the rest of my grass is tiff 419 since the builder put it in (10 years ago) so that's the kind of seed I'd like. Where is the best place to buy a small amount of good quality seed? Thanks!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (11)

apundt-tx
9 years ago
Read the last paragraph here:
http://www.sodfather.com/turf-grass/tifway-419-bermuda.asp
mightyquinnaty
9 years ago
Tifway can NOT be grown from seed. If you have only 400 sq/ft to cover that is ONE pallet of sod that should run you around $100 and will fit in the bed of a pick up truck. Right now would be a good time to buy since it's the off season. You can lay sod when it is dormant too.

If you still want to seed, look at seedland.com or hancockseed.com. You will want to get one of the higher end seeds like Princess 77 or LaPrima XD but they will NOT match your existing Tifway 419.
Related Discussions
Adding Bermuda Seed to Existing Bermuda Grass
Q
Comments (8)
I do the 1"-1 1/4"/week watering but ony add fertilizer every few months (concerned I will burn it up). Have not added anything yet because our local extension agency recommends first fertilization after lawn has entirely greened up which it definately has not. There are no areas bad enough that I would feel new sod is necessary just an overall thinning (like my hair!:). I thought adding seed to the existing would thicken it up. The grass has not greened much so it is probably still in dormancy like you said iforgotitsonevermind. When I add fertilizer what ratio should I use? I've had a soil test done a few years back. The potassium and, I believe it is phosphate?, were at good levels. pH was fine too. Thanks.
...See More
Broadcasting Bermuda seed
Q
Comments (27)
The larger the carrier/seed ratio, the more accurate your trial run will be. At 20:1, I'd say your calibration run would be pretty darn accurate. I've only tried to run sand though a spreader one time. It was impossible to do until I spread the sand on a tarp and let it get bone dry. One try on my part doesn't make a trend, but it was enough to keep me from trying sand in a spreader again. I can't even remember where I got the sand so I can't tell you what type I used, except that my intuition tells me to use sharp/coarse sand. I'm sure I would have done that. If others have used it successfully, it tells me that it can work. Anyway, from my experience, a trial run is imperative if using sand. You don't want to mix your expensive seed with the sand only to find you have the same problem I had.
...See More
thnx for bermuda help part 2
Q
Comments (14)
The darker spots are the seeded areas - much thicker blades but still very dense as shown in the close ups, a little lighter color normally, they only look darker in the pics that show the lawn with dew in the morning. The majority of the lawn is the sodded 419 - I just threw down some box store seed over last 2 years in spots, so really not to sure what variety. Several years before that I did find some Princess 77 and used it in spots but I don't think it survived and don't think that is what I see growing now in the dark spots unless from the close ups you think P77 could be that thick a blade ? I may take your advice and replace it with sod or sprigs like you mentioned. I guess I really should or it will be more and more obvious. "Can I bring my 9-iron over and take a few divots? I promise to fill them with sand" TW, you are welcome to do whatever you want whenever you want with my bermuda lawn, I am sure with your magic touch with bermuda even divots will look great ! Thanks again to everyone, It's been a fun season so far using all the advice here, I gotta get the beds redone too this year, as you may have noticed they are not up to par with the new and improved lawn. I get something from each and all of the posts I read here, thnx !
...See More
Week 3 progress and questions
Q
Comments (5)
You do have too many questions to address properly here, but basically you cannot break into low frequency watering all at once. If your soil cannot accept all the moisture at once, you must stop when it starts to run off. If you can come back to watering 30 minutes later; however, the soil will have soaked the water in, and become more receptive to more water. With all the questions you have I'm going to suggest something that I think will do your soil the most good. Get a black plastic soaker hose long enough to stretch the length or width of your yard at least twice. So if your lawn is 50 feet wide, get 100 feet or more of soaker hose. Attach that to another hose that connects to your faucet. Find the high side of your lawn and start there. Stretch the hose out along the high side back and forth so the hose is about 18 inches away from itself (does that make sense?). Turn the faucet on to a trickle - where the water stream just barely breaks into drops as it hits the ground. Connect the soaker hose and let it run continuously for a full week, day and night. At the end of the week, you should be able to seed a wet mark in the soil where the water seeped. Move the high side of the soaker to that wet mark and move the low side 18 inches away again. Let that run a week and move again. Continue moving it weekly. You will have to continue watering your lawn normally all this time. When you have moved the soaker to the bottom of the lawn and let it run a week, move the soaker back to the high side and start over. When you complete the cycle for the second time, repeat a third time. At the end of three cycles, your soil will be completely different. What this does is set up a near perfect moisture and temperature environment to dramatically increase the population of beneficial soil fungi. Once you have the beneficials working for you in large numbers, your soil should absorb as much moisture as you can throw at it. When wet your soil should feel like a wet sponge (soft); when dry your soil should feel like a dry sponge (hard); and when you water the water should soak right in like a sponge. After you have your soil softened, you can go to weekly watering.
...See More
apundt-tx
9 years ago
cheapest route would be to dig 3in x 3in plugs from your existing bermuda lawn and transplant them into the area that you are wanting to seed.

what you don't want to spend in sodding($100.00) you will be providing yourself in free labor(5 hours x $20/hour)....
aggierose
Original Author
9 years ago
Thank you for the info. Out of curiosity, I know Bermuda needs full sun, but do any of the varieties perform well with a little bit of shade? Also, am I correct in assuming that my builder probably installed tiff 419?

I live in the Dallas area and the cheapest I have found a pallet was $150 plus tax. If anyone knows a place that sells it for $100 here, please let me know. Thanks!
mightyquinnaty
9 years ago
Is that $150 if you pick it up? Seems kind of high to me. Yes if your builder laid bermuda sod it was 99% chance it was Tifway 419.

How much shade are we talking about here? 419 needs at least 6-8 hours of sun to grow and be healthy. There is Celebration and TifGrand that are suppose to be "shade tolerant" but still need a lot of sun to be healthy just not as much as 419 would.
apundt-tx
9 years ago
http://www.txsod.com/members.asp
On the left hand side scroll down to celebration{{gwi:807}} bermuda.
There are lots of side farms to call.
In austin i usually get it from king ranch turfgrass.
They will haul it from crosby with other orders to austin then i pick it up at the south austin office. Maybe 125 when i bought it a few years ago.
I have traveled to brookshire for another pallet once but i happened to be delivering something in that area.

This post was edited by apundt-tx on Mon, Jan 19, 15 at 18:27
apundt-tx
9 years ago
This guy is on craiglist in your area and installs tiff for 130. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/for/4845691155.html
aggierose
Original Author
9 years ago
Apundt, I'm actually asking about the sun requirements for a different part of my yard. My back yard is starting to thin out slightly due to the trees getting larger. I was just wondering if there was another Bermuda that would do better and if so if I can seed over the existing grass. The back still gets a lot of sun, but not full sun. We should probably just switch to St. Augustine, but I dint think it would do well due to our strict water restrictions in the summer.
mightyquinnaty
9 years ago
If it is for under a tree your only two options are to either make it a flower/mulch bed around the drip line of the tree or thing the tree out by removing some branches to let more sunlight in. Probably cheaper and easier in the long run just to make a mulch bed and not have to fight the grass to keep it alive.
wrager
9 years ago
There is Shadow Turf as an option. It is only sold as plugs. It's very pricey and slow to spread. It does well in shade and looks pretty close to 419. I planted one flat three years ago in heavy shade. It looks quite good now.

Here is a link that might be useful: Turffalo
dchall_san_antonio
9 years ago
Another approach would be to sprig in some 419. Basically you buy one or two pieces of sod, wash away the soil, chop up the remaining grass, rhizomes, and stolons, scatter the chopped up chaff over the new area, lightly cover it with a scant dusting of sand, and start watering. Look on this forum for more about that. There's a guy in Australia who came up with the process.

Related Stories

CONTAINER GARDENS 8 Easy Container Plants to Grow From Seed

Get beautiful blooms and herbs in summer by starting these choice garden picks from seed in spring

GARDENING GUIDES Seeds or Seedlings? How to Get Your Garden Started

By Abundant City

Growing delicious herbs and vegetables starts with knowing your goals and when you want to plant

GARDENING GUIDES How to Plant a New Lawn From Seed

By J. Peterson Garden Design

Choose from more grass varieties and save money over sod by starting your lawn from seed

GARDENING GUIDES Make Sure You Read This Before Buying New Plants

By Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Follow these 10 plant-selection tips to avoid buyer’s remorse

PRODUCT PICKS Guest Picks: Beautiful Things You Can Feel Good About Buying

By Morgan Spenla

Upcycled, ecofriendly or just made responsibly, these home accessories and furniture pieces will keep your conscience clear

MOVING Home-Buying Checklist: 20 Things to Consider Beyond the Inspection

By Laura Gaskill

Quality of life is just as important as construction quality. Learn what to look for at open houses to ensure comfort in your new home

PETS What You Need to Know Before Buying Chicks

Ordering chicks for your backyard coop? Easy. But caring for them requires planning and foresight. Here's what to do

FEEL-GOOD HOME Simple Pleasures: 10 Ideas for a Buy-Less Month

By Laura Gaskill

Save money without feeling pinched by taking advantage of free resources and your own ingenuity

TREES How to Buy Healthy Trees and Shrubs

By Falon Mihalic

A healthy young plant with a strong form is more likely to do well in your yard. Here’s what to look for at the nursery

FALL GARDENING Be Your Own Wildflower Nursery

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Gather seeds from your garden in fall, and you'll have a selection of plants for next year — without spending a dime

Sponsored

Schlabach Woodworks

16 Reviews

Franklin County's Reclaimed Wood Professionals

More Discussions

Sowed a month ago, but little to no germination

5

Giardia Prevention Help

2

Plastic netting in lawn starter

2

ultrasonic rat devices

0

Lawn care Zone 3

2