Well, its been two nights since I put up the solar electric fence and all is well. The unit was $99(3 mile - smallest TSC had) plus about $20 for wire and plastic insulators. Hoped it would have been cheaper but was in a rush and very determined...I already had some rebar for posts which I cut into 1/3's and had to buy a few more lengths. Pretty easy. As Grandad suggested, I put the wires at 6" and 12" off the ground and one foot away from the base of the existing fence. I made the gate swing in. The unit is mounted to a 4x4 post and has an on off switch. Still wishing I did this a while ago. Not much corn left...I'm noticing a few late ears trying to form. I may have to hand pollenate these. Every stalk had at least two ears, some have had 3 ears and apparently a couple that may end up with 4 if you include the sucker. I'm curious about watering the garden while/if the fence is on. Any need to be concerned - precautions???lol I have one grounding rod - 3/8 rebar 4' in the ground. Was told rebar would be suffice for this application vs. the more expensive copper grounding rod. I kinda gathered that more/multiple grounding rods made for a stronger shock. Is this true or necessary for this small of a fence? We both tried the fence and felt it...

Jessaka, How to tell when they are ripe depends on the variety and where you live. Different varieties ripen at different times in different zones, and turn different colors when they ripen. Here in 6b Jonathans ripen in late July early Aug and turn red. Yellow delicious ripen in early to mid Sept and turn yellow. Winesaps come on in late Sept and turn red. Ark black ripens in late Oct to early Nov and turns a deep red--hence the name. Those are the apples that I've raised. Size and color are the thing to look at if you don't know the variety. When they reach apple size, sacrifice one and taste it. You'll be able to tell. As to fertilizing, well established apple trees don't need a lot. It is important to keep competition down though so you should remove any grass or weeds to the drip line and put down an organic mulch which will also act as a fertilizer. Young trees can use some compost. It takes a lot of potassium to sweeten fruit of any kind so it might be a good idea to have a soil test done to see what your soil may be lacking.

For those unfamiliar with the loose stalk type hybrids, they are tender stemmed and all parts are edible...leaves, stalks, flowers, florets. As tender as asparagus stalks. Yet, like asparagus they can get woody if growing conditions are unfavorable. Too hot too fast for example. I already have a shade cloth up as mine loves the early spring but we had a few very hot days last week. My bok choy will bolt overnight like last year no doubt. For gardeners they are good early cool spring crops with such a long harvest time. No need to wait for a full traditional head. Harvest all the side shoots as the main stalk grows. The central stalks head will be small but once harvested you will hopefully, and should, get another round of side shoots. Also a good Fall crop. Here is the BakersCreek broccoli page, Link, HERE I might try the purple sprouting this Fall. With a cold frame like Annie's, I should have a nice next holiday harvest if our Fall is anything like last year.

tomatoz1 said: Never have grown it, but I do start my broccoli on March 15 .... Same. Have already started some gai lan (one of the parents) but that is for the temporary hoop house. Should have some more going after the 15th. I'm always interested in greens that can take some heat ↑.