Q: When is corn ready to harvest? A: When the raccoons eat it all

15 years ago

Had to vent. After putting up a huge scarecrow, several pie pans on strings and rat-traps, the coons chowed on my corn again for the second night in a row. Must be ready to harvest...an sh2 variety called 'Gotta Have It'. Two days ago I had about 300 ears. Today I'm close to 100. Most were only partially eaten. The ones left look like they have a week or so until they would be ready. I'm not very optmistic at this point. I know they can easily climb over the 4 foot fence but was surprised when they didn't set off a single trap. The only satisfaction: about a 100 feet away, they did happen to get into a bowl of antifreeze(oops.) If they weren't nocturnal, they would be eating lead & copper...

Until I can justify the expense of an electric fence, this is the last time I plant corn. They also are trying out the ripe tomatoes. First time thats ever happened.

Comments (28)

anney
15 years ago
You know, I think I'd take those partially-eaten ears, shuck them, lace them with something poisonous, and lay them around the perimeter of the corn-patch tonight.

Or call the nearest animal control agency and ask if they can set traps in your garden to catch them for you.

I normally don't get too agitated about wildlife in the garden, though I was sure ticked off when the chipmunks ate most of my strawberries, but then I've never had raccoons decimating my corn.
grandad_2003
15 years ago
DarylJurassic, I can relate. After 4 years straight of having raccoons raid the corn I decided to get an electric fence. It was surprisingly inexpensive. I paid about $40 around 5 or so years ago. I realize that the setup would be a bit more than that today, but not sure how much more.

My fence charger is a RedSnapr brand type which I found at Home Depot. The charger was $30 and the wire and insulators were about $10. It keeps out all of the smaller animals that want to raid my garden. It keeps rabbits from eating the beans, oppossums from eating the strawberries, and (when it's on during the day) squirrels from raiding the tomatoes. I usually set the charger on a timer so that it is active only at night. Only once, when the wire was grounded out from weeds, did I have the raccoons raid the corn. I know now to check the voltage at corn picking time.

My only concern at the time was with our cat, but he has not been harmed one bit. (I noted that he puts his nose near the wire and apparently can tell when it's on.)

When you get one you will probably want to set it up so that you can take up and put down the wire in short order. I have a couple of extension cord reels that I use to coil up the electric fence wire - see link below. I have different lengths on the different reels so that I can fence smaller sections of the garden if needed. Also, I have poles with the wire insulators that can easily be moved if necessary. A 5 gallon bucket covers the charger attached to a post near the garden.

My neighbor behind me just recently mentioned that he was not able to harvest any of his corn because the raccoons had raided his garden. There were no raids in my garden. The electric fence was the best garden investments that I have ever made. I don't think you will be sorry if you decide to purchased one.

Here is a link that might be useful: Extension Cord Reel
Related Discussions
Harvesting Shallots - When?
Q
Comments (44)
I pulled my yellow multipliers today along with the rest of my garlic. All the onion plants had gone down but the foliage was not dried off. It will dry off well enough on the curing racks. I intend to braid them and use the braid for kitchen decoration until it is time to plant back this fall. For me that will be the same time I do my garlics and my tulips probably in mid October. I got very nice size but very poor numbers in the nests. These were not started from seed and have not bolted for me more than one or two plants in years, regardless of fall planted or spring planted. I suspect that seed strains of shallots and other multiplier true onions are more likely to bolt than the older pure set strains. The grey gourmet shallots are another species altogether while the rest are all various types of Allium cepa. I have not heard that the greys could be grown from seed or that they bolted.
...See More
When to harvest onions?
Q
Comments (6)
A few of mine have fallen over, but the leaves are still quite green. These are some of my red ones, the yellow onions are still standing tall, but have not seemed to bulb up yet. They were transplanted out on 4/15. Should I harvest the ones that have fallen over, or wait a bit longer until the leaves have turned brown?
...See More
How do you know when onions are ready to pull?
Q
Comments (70)
OSUEngineer, I generally have the same experience except when the weather is wildly fluctuating from too hot to too cold weekly. When that happens, often the bigger ones bolt. It is that whole biennial thing that happens once they're a certain size and then exposed to a week of very cold weather. It really doesn't happen that often though. The smallest ones usually aren't worth planting---I mean the really tiny ones. I usually just drop them into the path to blend in with the mulch. I like the medium-sized plants since they are the easiest to keep happy, but this year even th great big ones stayed happy. You know, if the onions are happy, I'm happy. Since we haven't had that erratic weather down here this year, our onions are way ahead of their usual schedule. It is sort of astonishing to see what happens when the onions haven't had to deal with much cold weather at all since they were planted. I rarely have had onions reach the 15-16 leaf stage in May, when they reach it at all, and this year all the larger ones just about have hit that point. I feel like I walk through a forest of onions every day, but I'm not complaining. I'm so glad to hear that buying direct from Dixondale is working out so well for you. It was a gentleman from Texas, now deceased, who used to post here on GW as GoneFishin' who convinced me to try ordering from Dixondale many years ago. He always had the most beautiful onions and so I decided to try ordering direct to see if I could get onions as nice as his. I think maybe this year I finally have onions as big and as happy and as healthy as his always were, but it has taken me the better part of 2 decades to get there. See how nice it can be when the weather cooperates? When a few of mine have died like yours did, I always assume they might have had a disease or got too dried out after being pulled or whatever. It happens. I think Dixondale overpacks to account for that. Kim, Normally, if you cut off the necks instead of curing the onions properly, the onions will not store as well, but much depends on the varieties too. With all the sweet southern type varieties (most short day and intermediate day length types fall in this category), they really don't store for a real long time anyway so it might not hurt to cut off their leaves. Would I do it? No. But, these are your onions and you're the Queen of your garden so you should feel free to do whatever you choose. To understand why curing them with the leaves on is important, I'll just say that as the onions cure, the necks dry and shrink down. During this process the onion skins/wrappers are drying and sort of shriveling and pulling tight. Allowing this to happen naturally takes a while but is important---there's more to gardening than just the growing---you want to maximize your harvest's usage via proper curing and storing. The wrappers/scales/skins (whatever you choose to call them) will help protect the onions in storage. If you cut off the leaves before the drying process finishes up, the skins may not dry properly and pull tight to protect the onions from bacteria. Normally, once the skins pull tight and dry out, then you can cut the leaves off about 1" above the bulb. The reason you don't cut closer is because cutting too close can allow bacteria to infiltrate. If you prefer and if your leaves have dried down really well without getting mildew or fungi or anything, you can braid the onions together like you do with garlic. With storage onions (generally the long day length types and a few of the intermediate types), it is very important to let them cure properly. If cured properly they can last in storage from 4 to 10 months, which is just awesome. Imagine never having to buy an onion at the grocery store all year. Cutting off the leaves too early without curing properly could interfere in the curing process and cause them to sprout really early instead of storing for months. So, weigh your options. If you're wanting to cut some to use the greens, try it with a few and see how they store and then you can determine if you want to try it with more of them. The best way to learn is to experiment to see what works for you in your particular conditions and circumstances. I learned how important proper curing was early in my adult gardening life by not curing properly----that is why I feel like it is so important. When I slowed down and stopped being so impatient and allowed them to cure properly on their schedule as they needed instead of on/by my schedule, my storage time of all varieties pretty much doubled. For me, there was a huge lesson in that. You know, I helped my dad all the time when I was a kid--toddler-sized, really, through young adulthood and I never really thought much about what he did or how he did it. I just did things the way he'd shown me or told me and that was that. I didn't question his methods. They worked. I might not have understood why they worked, but I knew they did. Later on, as an adult with my own garden and with Alzheimer's Disease stealing his mind, I wish I previously had asked a lot more questions and written down his answers while he still could provide those answers. By the time I wanted/needed to ask questions to learn why we did things a certain way, he no longer could answer those questions. It took me another 10 years on my own to develop a good understanding of it all---not so much an understanding of what he did, but of why he did it and why it mattered and why I needed to do it too. I always try to explain the why's when I can because he didn't explain them to me and that caused me, eventually, to have a much longer learning curve. Dawn
...See More
We've Got Ripe Corn! No Worms, No Raccoons!
Q
Comments (17)
Kirts, I feel like you are being wise to plan ahead. With the continuing modernization of some countries, like China and India, where the demand for oil and gas and other petroleum products is increasing exponentially every year, I see our energy costs continuing to rise. Since the average item in a grocery store in the USA travels about 1500 miles BEFORE it reaches the grocery store shelves, obviously the ever-increasing energy/transport costs will keep food costs rising. The changes we are seeing in the commercial agriculture industry and the food distribution network may force a lot of us to try to eat more locally. In the slow food movement, I think they refer to the effort to eat only locally-produced food as being a locavore. In addition, when you consider that a lot of the chemical fertilizers used by commercial farmers are linked to the petroleum industry, it is easy to believe that food costs will continue to go up because of rising fertilizer costs as well. I think people will turn to organic gardening as a means of lessening their dependence on foreign energy/fertilizers. There are many ways to store food and I use several of them. We have a tornado shelter and I use it to store root crops like potatoes and onions harvested in the summer as well as winter squash harvested in the fall. I have even stored winter squash on a shelf in the garage/barn and have had it last as long as 4-6 months in there. We have a large pantry located under our home's staircase. It is about 3 feet wide and maybe 12 deep. The height varies from 8' to about 2'. Back in that 2' area I store odds and ends we don't use often, like the pressure canner and my set of 4 huge stainless steel stockpots I use a lot during the harvest season. I freeze lots and lots of stuff. I always chop and slice onions and peppers and freeze them. I can usually raise a year's supply (or more) in the spring garden. I usually freeze tons of corn (I could can it if I didn't have storage space, but I do have storage space so I just freeze it.) Some years I get enough corn from the spring and fall gardens that we don't have to buy corn at all. The same is true of green beans and black-eyed peas. I even freeze tomatoes--they go straight from the freezer to the soup or saucepot in the winter. Okra is a little more iffy. We eat so much of it that I don't usually freeze much. I need to grow more, but the deer have been an issue with it for years, although I believe we've finally solved that problem. Thus, I should be able to grow more of it in the future. Carrots do best for me in the fall garden. If you have them in a well drained bed, you can leave them in the bed for months and harvest as needed. Another way to store them is in a clean trash can filled with sand. Pour a few inches of sand into the container, then put down a layer of carrots and repeat until all your carrots are stored. You also can keep them in a root cellar OR a refrigerator for months. Carrots can be frozen and even dehydrated. I dehydrate a lot of stuff. I then store all my bags of dehydrated veggies in the freezer, but you don't have to put them in the freezer. If you are careful to get out all the moisture, you can store dried veggies in the pantry. Even cantaloupes, muskmelon, watermelon and other lesser-known melons can be frozen. I usually cut them into squares, or use a melon baller to make them into melon balls and freeze them. You also can slice them into rather thin slices and dehydrate them. Their flavor and sweetness are so intensified by drying them that they are like candy. Anything that you grow in the garden can be dehydrated although some things take a pretty long time. I've never tried dehydrating corn, but I am sure it would work. Shelled beans dry naturally without dehydration and so do black-eyed peas. Many herbs can be tied in bundles and hung in a dry, warm, dark location to dry naturally. Canning is a lot of work and can be hazardous if done improperly, but as long as you follow all the recommended procedures and are careful, it is a great way to preserve food too. Cabbage will store a long time in a refrigerator or in a root cellar type situation. Back when people HAD to raise all the own food, a lot of them make sauerkraut to preserve the cabbage for winter, but I am not much of a sauerkraut person. There's always pickles too. You can pickle LOTS of veggies, not just cucumbers. You can pickle peppers, onions, carrots, beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, watermelon rinds, etc. You also can make all kinds of relish and, there again, not just pickle relish but squash and others as well. Fruit can be frozen, dried or canned and you also can make preserves, jams and jellies. You can even make tomato preserves or marmalade. Storing food is not as hard as most people think, but it takes a lot of effort. If you want to expand your garden for next year, you could start building lasagna type beds this year. Although, as much as the heat bothers you and with your allergies, you might prefer to wait until fall to start laying out your garden beds. I like to clean out my garden beds in the fall and remove all debris. This is very important because many garden pests overwinter in plant debris. Usually I let the chickens roam around in the garden beds in December and they will dig and scratch and take care of lots of insects, insect eggs, weed seeds, etc. I also like to heap up tons and tons and tons of shredded leaves, gathered from our wooded areas, on top of the beds as soon as they are cleaned out after the first hard frost. The chopped-up leaves decompose into a lovely leaf mold or compost by spring. (If you don't chop them up, they break down a lot more slowly.) I also prefer to go ahead and add manure and compost to the beds in the winter months, so my beds are "ready to go" in the spring. Sometimes in a bad wildfire year, though, I stay too busy to get the garden beds cleaned up and replenished with compost, manure and leaves in winter. In those years, I really have a hard time planting on schedule because the beds aren't ready. I do all my planning and seed ordering in late fall to early winter. By the time the new seed catalogs arrive, I am usually about "done" although there is always something new that convinces me to order one more batch of seeds. Because my family understands and supports my gardening habit, my Christmas gifts are always handy useful things like gardening gloves (five pair last year, everything from goatskin to latex-dipped cotton to suede) and hand tools and such. One of my favorite garden gifts (I always ask Santa for this one) is a big cannister of electrical zip-ties. I use them to attach tomato cages to stakes, etc. There are several really, really useful vegetable gardening books and food preservation books that I find ESSENTIAL to my success as a veggie gardener. I have had most of them for years and years and years and still refer to them constantly. I'll make a list of them later. I'm off to the store to pick up some more food preservation supplies--processing all that corn wiped out my supply of freezer bags, and I need some pickling supplies before the cucumbers get out of control. I'll write later about corn and veggies. Dawn
...See More
daryljurassic
Original Author
15 years ago
I know nothing about electric fences but...eletricity would be a problem. My garden is about 500 feet from my house and about 250 feet from my barn to the closest corner of the garden fence. Is there one that runs off a car type battery? If so, how long might a charge last?

anney: I thought about that, hence the antifreeze...Any other xxx suggestions? My concern(s), besides the innocent critters is that the poison may end up in my garden(karma lol). There will be a couple bowls of antifreeze & corn stew tonight but still kept a distance from the garden. I'm in a rural area and my yard is fenced so dogs are very unlikely to drink the antifreeze. Skunks are welcome to have a drink. After a couple of smelly nights, I shot one last week. That and some mothballs under my deck, problem solved. While they might...detract coons, I have read that mothballs are bad to put in a vegetable garden.
bklyn2pok
15 years ago
I was told by someone that there is a solar powered version of the electric fence charger. I don't have anymore info on it but it's worth a quick google search.
jwstell42
15 years ago
Yes they do make chargers which are entirely solar - no need to run electric to them.

If I remember correctly they are about $50 - which is cheap if you consider to run the electric out of your house would probably cost $1 a day (some estimate i read somewhere), so in about two months, you've paid for your solar charger, which should last for years.
grandad_2003
15 years ago
DarylJurasic, my charger is connected to a storeroom wall outlet via a 100 ft extension cord. How far from an outlet are you? If 250 ft then that might be doable via extension cord(s). However, I'm not sure about using extension cords if running 500 ft.
daryljurassic
Original Author
15 years ago
Dang, a quick search at Tractor Supply Company and there are some inexpensive solar fence batteries. Might be too late for this year - at least this plot. I do have a small plot of corn that I started July 1, hoping for a warm September...There are a couple of TSC's near me & I will look into it further. One general question would be: what goes over the gate to the garden(electrically speaking)? Nothing or do you turn in off while in the garden...?
garbird
15 years ago
Have you ever tried coon on the cob? Haha. I've been dealing with these little theives for years, and they make it hard to grow anything in my small urban garden. I bought a Hav-a-hart trap and caught about 30 coons and possums combined. I relocated them far from home until fuel became cost prohibitive. Now I am considering finding some good recipes for cooking them. Has anyone ever tried eating thes things?
anney
15 years ago
Ask Granny from the Beverly Hillbillies for recipes!
grandad_2003
15 years ago
DarylJurassic, my wires are set at 6 and 12 inches off ground so I just step over them. If you have a fenced-in garden then you will probably want to put the wires outside of the fenced area (but so that you can still open your gate.)

{{gwi:86700}}
sandhill_farms
15 years ago
Pretty good patch of corn there grandad, how many plants do you figure are planted there? I just got through (this past Monday) seeding (150) plants.

Greg
Nevada
grandad_2003
15 years ago
Greg, In a good year I usually pick abound 3 1/2 dozen ears per row, or maybe slightly more. This year I planted 9 rows but my production was a bit off due to a lack of raifall in the weeks leading up to harvest. I think I harvested about 3 dozen ears per row. So that would be roughly 27 dozen ears.
daryljurassic
Original Author
15 years ago
My fence is 4' and the posts are 5' above ground. Could I set it up like a horse pasture, with one strand near the top of the posts or do I need 2 parallel strands? Or, would you reccommend putting it outside of the fence on seperate posts/stakes closer to the ground. The fence had originaly been put up to keep out rabbits and deer. This is only my second year of growing corn. Never had a problem with anything getting in before.

Update: Last night 2 out 4 "corn stews" got knocked over and possibly drank. They did get in the garden again but not as much damage. Also, I had a sprinkler going near my deck until 10pm and I noticed some tracks on the deck near the puddled water - looks like skunk...Might need to put out a bowl of corn stew by the house tonight.
grandad_2003
15 years ago
As long as you set it up so that the raccoon has to touch the hot wire and then grounds out BEFORE getting into the garden area that should work. However, if you have a wooden fence then he won't be able to ground out and will just climb over the hot wire. If he climbs a metal fence and then touches the hot wire he will complete the circuit. Then he will likely be in for a 4 foot fall. But if so, oh well...
daryljurassic
Original Author
15 years ago
Its a metal fence so I guess that would work then. In my head I justed pictured the coon getting zapped and falling the wrong way...(inside the garden) lol.
Does the wire need to be in a continous loop? If so, not sure how to handle the gate - its just metal fencing(very simple/crude door). Do you duck under the wire?

garbird, I have a small cage and catch chipmonks regularly. They are easy to release. Buying a big cage and trying to release a raccoon sounds tricky. I have heard some do this with skunks also...Whats the trick here. A pistol?
grandad_2003
15 years ago
The wire does not "need" to be in a continuous loop but I think you'd want it to otherwise there is an open space and your garden would not be protected. I think putting the wire above and outward from the top of the fence by a couple of inches would work best... so that the raccoon doesn't fall INTO the garden. Yes, have it such that you can open the gate and duck under the wire as you noted.

I've trapped raccoons with my large Have-a-Heart trap. You only get one chance. If you miss, that's it. They won't be fooled a second time. I keep one of the trap doors closed and taped shut and put the food in a bowl at the back of the trap against the closed door. I also have a wooden box that i put over the H-A-H trap to keep the raccoon from setting off the trap by reaching in from the outside. The box has an opening for the trap entrance. Note - if the raccoon has access to fresh sweet corn, he is probably not going to bother with trying to get food out of the trap.. the bait would have to REALLY smell good!
garbird
15 years ago
Hi Daryljurassic, I use a piece of stiff wire about 4 ft. long to lift the door after I release the safety latch. It takes a bit of practice to get all the motions just right. I have never had an animal do anything but run away when the door is opened, but I give them a lot of respect anyway. Releasing a skunk is no big deal either. Just hold an old blanket in front of yourself as you approach the trap. When close enough just lower it over the trap so that the skunk can't spray you. When moving the trap keep enough of the blanket dragging the ground between it and your legs to keep LePew from seeing you all the time. When you release him( as you have already practised many times and have now mastered all the motions) remember to STAY BEHIND THE BLANKET. I have a freind that works for Critter Control and he taught me this trick and it really does work. I just hope you get to practise with raccoons for a while before you catch a skunk.
I have found the best baits to be peanut butter spread directly on the bait pan( they have to lick really hard to get it off) and canned cat food (in the can and wired to the bait pan)I drill 2 small hole in the lip of the can and use bread bag ties to attach it to the pan.
Garbird
daryljurassic
Original Author
15 years ago
After the 4th night in row of theivery, I put up a solar electric fence this morning. Easy. Wish I did this last week...
eplina
15 years ago
when the ear begins to dry out , you should check the corn

Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow corn
daryljurassic
Original Author
15 years ago
"when the ear begins to dry out , you should check the corn"

Huh?
plant-one-on-me
15 years ago
I feel for you. I was watching a tomato I really, really wanted to try this year called Brad's Black Heart. I would say it was about 2 days shy of being fully ripe. When I checked it this morning something ate the ripest part! I am pretty sure it was a rabbit but could have been a squirel...either way if I can catch em, I'm gonna eat em!!!

Kim
dangould
15 years ago
here is an excellent trap. Much better than hav-a-hart traps. and low price.

Start trapping them out. There are only a few and get rid of them. Move at least 10 miles and preferrable past a big river and a big highway. the farther the better.

racoons always pick the corn a few days early before people would pick it. You can start trapping them out early well before the corn is ready.

Nothing could be easier to catch. Racoons are super easy to catch.

if you drop the trap into water the racoon will drown.

you might call the town animal control. they might pick up the coon. There should be NO need for a gun.

Here is a link that might be useful: trap
gardenlady50
15 years ago
My corn is being stripped off the stalks. Two nights in a row I have found cobs that the skins are shredded down neatly and the cob kernals eaten almost completely. Looks like a bare banana except for the shredded skins. Is the shredding of the skins done by racoons or deer. I live in an area that has both. I want to take care of the problem but would like to find out first what would eat the corn that way. No evidence of deer or racoon poop after their feast and the corn is not carried away. Just eaten and left either inside the rows or just on the outside. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
daryljurassic
Original Author
15 years ago
Well, its been two nights since I put up the solar electric fence and all is well. The unit was $99(3 mile - smallest TSC had) plus about $20 for wire and plastic insulators. Hoped it would have been cheaper but was in a rush and very determined...I already had some rebar for posts which I cut into 1/3's and had to buy a few more lengths. Pretty easy. As Grandad suggested, I put the wires at 6" and 12" off the ground and one foot away from the base of the existing fence. I made the gate swing in. The unit is mounted to a 4x4 post and has an on off switch. Still wishing I did this a while ago. Not much corn left...I'm noticing a few late ears trying to form. I may have to hand pollenate these. Every stalk had at least two ears, some have had 3 ears and apparently a couple that may end up with 4 if you include the sucker.

I'm curious about watering the garden while/if the fence is on. Any need to be concerned - precautions???lol I have one grounding rod - 3/8 rebar 4' in the ground. Was told rebar would be suffice for this application vs. the more expensive copper grounding rod. I kinda gathered that more/multiple grounding rods made for a stronger shock. Is this true or necessary for this small of a fence? We both tried the fence and felt it...
grandad_2003
15 years ago
DarylJurassic, so glad to hear that your problem has been solved. If my guess is right you will not regret spending the bucks. As for watering while the fence is on question, I water during the day when the fence is turned off. However, I often do have rainfall in the evening when the fence is hot. My fence charger is protected by an upside-down 5 gallon bucket so no water can get to it. Water on the wire and insulators and posts seems to cause a slight voltage drop. Any wet weeds touching the wire cause more of a voltage loss. Otherwise it works OK.

My ground post is only about a foot deep. It is made of steel, not copper but it has worked well as a ground. I sure hope you don't need to move your rebar because it is probably not going to be easy getting it out of the ground.
loshmo_gmail_com
14 years ago
I don't want to sound like a jerk but I'm kind of disturbed reading some of these posts. Intentional antifreeze poisoning? If you've ever seen a loved pet die from antifreeze poisoning, you know what a horrible way it is to die. To intentionally inflict that kind of suffering on any animal over corn seems pretty crappy. And drowning? I understand your frustration as I just lost my first corn to the crafty little beasts just the other night, but to poison them when you have other options (trap and release, even animal control) isn't right, and drowning them because you can't be bothered to drive far enough to let them go isn't either. This was not the advice I was hoping for.
HU-216403086
2 years ago
Is it safe to harvest and eat corn that raccoons have nibbled on
vgkg Z-7 Va
2 years ago
If the raccoons just nibbled on it then it's probably not worth eating ;-)

...but cutting off the bitten part and vigorously boiling the corn should kill any pathogens.

Q: When is corn ready to harvest? A: When the raccoons eat it all

Comments (28)

anney

grandad_2003

Related Discussions

daryljurassic
Original Author

bklyn2pok

jwstell42

grandad_2003

daryljurassic
Original Author

garbird

anney

grandad_2003

sandhill_farms

grandad_2003

daryljurassic
Original Author

grandad_2003

daryljurassic
Original Author

grandad_2003

garbird

daryljurassic
Original Author

eplina

daryljurassic
Original Author

plant-one-on-me

dangould

gardenlady50

daryljurassic
Original Author

grandad_2003

loshmo_gmail_com

HU-216403086

vgkg Z-7 Va

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Q: When is corn ready to harvest? A: When the raccoons eat it all

Comments (28)

Related Discussions

daryljurassicOriginal Author

daryljurassicOriginal Author

daryljurassicOriginal Author

daryljurassicOriginal Author

daryljurassicOriginal Author

daryljurassicOriginal Author

daryljurassicOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

daryljurassic
Original Author

daryljurassic
Original Author

daryljurassic
Original Author

daryljurassic
Original Author

daryljurassic
Original Author

daryljurassic
Original Author

daryljurassic
Original Author