I notice several people have problems with motors dying and/or not putting out full power. Besides the choke issue, there are 2 others I've noticed. On a used Troy Bilt mini tiller I bought (2 stroke Tecumseh), I could start it, but it wouldn't rev adequately or keep running (I got it really cheap). Pulled the tiny hose off the tank, and not a drop of gas came out. Ran a wire up the barb, and still nothing. Cracked the fill cap a bit, and gas shot out. A plugged air vent on the cap--that's one reason they won't keep going. But that didn't solve it. Still wouldn't rev. Then I remembered that in the manuals for every engine I've used ever used (big old Tecumsehs and Briggs 4 strokes, little 2 strokes, etc.) they always say to screw the main jet down to seat it (gently), then back out 1 and one-half turns. You're then supposed to turn it back in (with the engine running) until it runs rough, then back out til it's rough, then go to half way between--that's the sweet spot. But try to do that with a tiny engine buzzing and hopping around. So I just left it at 1 1/2 turns out, and it runs like a champ. I know this won't solve everybody's problem, but it's cheap and quick and easy to do. I do agree with the people who prefer 4 strokes, and they've somehow figured how to make them work even with trimmers, which obviously aren't level much of the time. I wonder how they do that?

This is one of the more interesting threads I've seen on this subject. On the one hand, the original poster's logic is correct. If the oils of the past were inferior, it's silly to believe that carbon buildup and plug fouling would be intolerable with modern synthetic oils at 20:1. On the other hand, Nevada Walrus makes a good point. In the old days, the more oil we added to the mix the richer we set the carburetor jetting to compensate (2-stroke racing motorcycles.) Many of today's engines don't allow carburetor adjustment, so at some point, more oil could theoretically cause a dangerously lean condition. For what it's worth, I will now be using Mobil 2T, which I finally found at a Twin Cites Autozone store. And I always mix at 32:1. That's my compromise between the 16:1 I ran in the 70's and the 50:1 required by the EPA Nazis.

Thanks again, I went to town and got a Gal. of O,reilly GL4. The only thing had in GL4 was 140 wt., thought I would be tearing it down soon for repair anyway. I was suprised, the old lube looked like coffee and cream. I drained and flushed with diesel fuel. It really looked good, there was almost no sign of any wear, no way would I think this was a 30 year old machine. I dont think the lube had ever been changed because the paint had not even been cracked on the drain and fill plugs. I have not found anything wrong other than air cleaner, carb. cleaning and tires cracked, but still should get a few years out of them. The tines look new, but rusty. I have not even used the electric start on it yet, it has started on the first pull every time. I gave $250.00 for it, in this part of the country nearly any kind of rear tine tiller will go for that, maybe more. I will go with top grade lube and cleaner after I finish checking things out. Fellows, thanks for all your help, Larry

If you take care of it, it will last a few years. The Cadet 1170 actually has a whole lot in common with its fellow MTD products, Yard Man, Bolens, and Troy Bilt. As a matter of fact, it's nearly identical to the Troy Bilt Super Bronco LT. Sadly, the only thing it has in common with a Cub Cadet is the paint. I was duped into buying an 1170 a couple years ago by my very old widowed great aunt, under the guise that I was buying a Cub Cadet. This tractor is not a Cub Cadet, it's an MTD Cadet, sold by Cub Cadet dealerships as an entry level lawn mower, but not to the standards of a Cub Cadet. That omission of the "Cub" on the hood was not accidental. After picking up the tractor I was initially overjoyed to be the proud owner of a premium lawn tractor, but the more I used it, the more I realized it was no modern marvel. The transmission is automatic, but not hydrostatic. It uses a set of cones which vary the size of a pully to make the wheels spin faster. It's low maintenance, but also very low durability. Do not pull any ground engaging implements, not even an aerator with this tractor or you will ruin it! You can't quickly reverse directions like with a hydrostatic, so make sure you come to a complete stop before shifting into reverse, then take your time. The transaxle will not stand up to quick fore-aft movements. You're right, it does have a cast iron axle, but don't fool yourself into thinking there is anything "tough" about this mower. After a season of mowing and doing other yard chores, I realized the needs I had in refurbishing a lawn (pulling a plug aerator, cartloads of sand...) would destroy this machine, so I sold it and bought a garden tractor. On the plus side, you did get a very good deal. I bought mine from my aunt in like-new condition for the "family price" of $1,000 with 50-60 hours. At the end of the season I sold it "better than new" for the same price with another 20-30 hours (I added tail lights). Of course I didn't point out to the buyer that it wasn't a Cub Cadet, nor did I ever refer to the "Cadet" as a "Cub Cadet." But I have a hunch he believed he was buying a Cub Cadet, just like I did, just like you did. The Troy-bilt version sells for $1299, so you basically got it for half price, a quarter of the way through its service life. I believe the retail price of the tractor a few years ago was $1799, which was a bit of a rip-off for what you got. It can't even be compared to the Cub Cadet 1045 selling for the same price 5-7 years later, with a hydrostatic transmission, 46" deck with 4 anti-scalp wheels, 20hp Kohler... As long as you meticulously maintain this machine, don't wash it after use (use a leaf blower), and do nothing but cut grass, you should get a couple hundred hours out of it. I don't fault my aunt for selling me the tractor (unseen) under false pretenses. She actually thought it was a Cub Cadet. And so will your neighbors!