D in front of everything is for "dear," unless you are in the kitchen forum and are talking about a dishwasher! Then, the dw is usually done in lower case. Dear Husband, Dear Wife, Dear Son, Dear Daughter, Dear Mother, Dear Father, and Dear Father-in-law (DF-in-L). Our GardenWeb/That Home Site custom varies from the link I posted below. DH is always used, rarely does someone say "husband" in their posts. I find myself wanting to say DH in any reference to him, and even when refering to him out loud, now! One acronym from the kitchen site you will NEVER get unless you really search it out is FPDD. Fisher Paykel Dish Drawers. They are dishwashers that come in a drawer style. Here is a link that might be useful: Chat acronyms

I have one cast iron kettle that I use as a deep fryer, trsinc. I use shortening in that one (Crisco, that is) and it works out just fine. It keeps through many uses before needing to be replaced. For non-deep frying the way Bumblebeez does, I've usually used peanut oil. Lately I've been using the Palm Oil shortening for those applications. But long term that can get expensive (cost me almost 7 bucks for a 24-oz tub). Once I use up what I have I will most likely not replace it. I'm surprised you can't find peanut oil. It's one of the commonest. Most supermarkets carry it. Is there a Walmart or Kroger near you? I know you can get it there. Barring that, however, you can use corn oil (the #1 oil sold in America). Until Canola started making inroads, corn oil was the most likely vegetable oil on grocery shelves. If you're eliminating the use of Canola, do not buy any of the ones that say "mixed oils" or "blended vegetable oils" or something like that without first reading the label. Most of those blends are Canola and something.

I know nothing of Craft Maid but I know a little of Rutt. Rutt is not a company that I would have asked to make modern cabinets for me. My cabinets are from Henrybuilt. I wanted modern European esthetics in my cabinets. That's all Hentrybuilt does and they do that extremely well. The other companies that I looked were predominantly European, similar list as you. build everything to the exact dimension. My fireplace surround has three doors that are exactly the same sizes that fill the space exactly! Each company has an esthetic that they know how to execute very well. When you ask the company to do something that they are not comfortable doing, then the outcome is somewhat uncertain because there is no previous example. At this price point, they all make good cabinets. What sets one apart from another company is not the construction but the design, customer service and attention to detail. I am sure they are all made with 3/4 inch plywood boxes. HB is.. I am sure they all use top of the line Blum hinges and self closing drawer hardware etc etc. HB uses Blum Tandemboxes for their kitchens, not hardwood drawers. They want the kitchens to be more Euro cabinets than American cabinets. I would ask this company to show you all possible examples of modern kitchens that they have installed. If you like how they achieve the look, which is often the balance of proportions, reveals where different materials meet, combination of materials used, and in particular with slab veneer cabinets, how they use the grains to create a balance of horizontal and vertical lines in the space. If what they show does not quite give you that feeling that you will get the wow kitchen that you wanted, then I would keep looking at other companies. American Black walnut, teak, rift cut oak, mahogony, wenge, anigre are some of the wood species that can look great as veneer slab doors. They can be quite expensive, however. Have you looked at those wood? A while back, there was beautiful custom kitchen done in mahogony. Not slab, but none the less beautiful. When I went to the Craft Maid web site, I did not see any modern kitchens that even came close to the kind of esthetic that European companies and Henrybuilt does. That does not mean that they can't do it. If they have NOT done it yet, you are taking a risk that it may not come out quite what you envisioned...

FAQ-SEED CHANGE Outline 1--Special Instructions for the Seed Exchange --make them a LOT friendlier than the existing ones are, if OK with GW. 2-Getting set up and started A--setting up your GW profile and email settings B--setting up your Trade Page-Post the date it was updated at the TOP of the page --note seed source if other than your garden Commercial (C)-Garden (G) received in Trade (T) --note year harvested, received in trade or purchased, if it is known. C-Member Page Blurb-share a bit about yourself or your gardening style and/or challenges. Even if you are a very private person, possibly you could at least share with us what you enjoy growing. 3--Nothing to trade? Join in the fun by responding to Seeds for Postage ‘offers’ --Everything you ever wanted to know about seeds for postage offers --Members with excess seeds to share 4--Can I trade seeds I have gathered from my garden, ie flowers, vegetables, shrubs, trees, etc? What about saving seeds from Hybrid plants? --and also refer them to the Saving Seed Forum, and/or the FAQ there. 5--How should I label my seed packets? Both common and botanical names if known Year of harvest or purchase or received in trade Your GW Member Name, in case there are any questions Additionally growing instructions are nice but not required. It’s also nice to note if the seeds are annuals or perennials if known. (This is just FYI - My seed packets contain the following information plant name, annual/perennial/biennial, USDA Zone, Number of seeds, Light, Soil, Height, (bloom time and color if there is room), my screen name and the year of harvest. ) 6--How many seeds are considered a fair trade? How many seeds are considered a 'fair' trade? A fair trade is whatever you and the other trader agree to. Generally, two to three dozen seeds should be enough to ensure germination and growth of a satisfying number of plants. However, the most certain way to assure both parties will be satisfied is to discuss quantities when negotiating the trade. -- 7--Can I trade last years seeds or seeds older than that? (Some seeds must be fresh to be viable while some can be decades old and still be viable. If you are trading for seeds that do not remain viable for long discuss their freshness with the other person when you negotiate the trade. ) 8--Posting a trade --checking R and R 9--How do I pack my seeds for trading and then protecting them when mailing them? --What should I include? 10--Where do I buy bubble envelopes, and what size should I buy? Are they then reusable? Do I 'have' to buy and use bubble envelopes? Can I just use bubble wrap in a regular envelope? List numerous places where bubble envelopes envies can be bought and suggest sizes...plus more 11-postage costs...sigh 12-Once your trade is complete-The Rate and Review Forum --Please leave a review 13-- I have questions and don't see the answers anywhere. Who or where can I ask? Suggest using the Conversation side of the Seed Exchange, and maybe doing a search via the search box found just below the list of threads on page one. ***extra things to add How do I learn more about Winter Sowing that I see referred to so much? How can I find out how to save and dry my own seeds? How do I know if my saved seeds are viable? Can I save and trade seeds from hybrid plants? Will they grow true from seed? How should I store my seeds? Seed Exchange acronyms, abbreviations and various terms How to Post Pictures Misc Hints and Tips +++++++++++++...glean more info from the existing FAQ and/or rework maybe