Thanks for the feedback. I'm hearing from everyone that this isn't the ideal garden situation because of sunlight and the close proximity to the trees. Next year, we may relocate the garden to an area away from the trees. I'm not sure if that area gets more sunlight, I will need to evaluate that a little closer. The current spot does get quite a bit of sunlight though - the sun rises to the back right of the garden, and as it gets to the top of the sky its towards the right of the garden. I'd say it gets sun from 12-1 until about 7PM at least. At 6:30 today it was still getting direct sunlight. I have an updated picture. One tomato plant (the one behind the first row one) is slowly dying...although the first one is still growing strong. Jalapeno, squash, and cucumbers are still producing quite well. I'm keeping the jalapeno's on the plant until I notice cracking/coloring to test out the different stages and flavors. About how long until you start to notice the change in color? And we have some bell peppers starting to grow too...probably about 4 that are ping pong ball size. Here's a picture of our cucumber plant that is starting to get some yellow leaves...any idea what may be causing this? Its only started in the past week or so, but I think we need to get it figured out soon! So far, we had about 10 cucumbers, 10 squash, 5-6 tomatoes, and 3 jalapenos (although about 20 are currently growing). Happy gardening!

How much sun do these areas get? What kind of soil do you have? Are there any "special circumstances" that you're dealing with, like it's on a steep slope, or gets water logged? Generally speaking, success at gardening begins and ends with soil. Good soil, rich in organic matter is generally preferred (there are exceptions) by plants. I don't do anything fancy to amend the soil, just work in lots of leaf mold, available for free from the county. The area you are working with is small, so you should be able to do a spectacularly good job. Then, ask yourself what you would like to see. Look at gardening magazines and books to give you ideas. Once you have a sense of what you would like to accomplish, you can start to narrow down the plants that are likely to work for you. I don't know a whole lot about vegetable growing, but I am fairly certain that anything that grows on vines (like cucumbers and zucchini) is probably not going to work, given your space limitations. Root vegetables will need good, deep, rich soil, which you should be able to provide. I believe that greens are fairly easy. Keep in mind however, that most veggies require a lot of sun to grow well. Suja

I agree with Laceyvail on most of her points, both on bed shape and plant selection, and based on the landscape company's design and suggestions, would go looking for another company that is more realistic. I would probably go with a mix of low care perennials and smaller shrubs and make the bed about 4' deep to allow for a couple of layers and slightly larger shrubs. I am not fond of the look of a single line of plants. I do like that they used most of the types of plants several times; too many different types in a small garden looks too chaotic. Lilac, smokebush and holly are all far too large for the space, and I wouldn't use boxwood since they have unfortunately developed two different problems in New England (one disease and one insect) that may leave them looking homely. Endless Summer hydrangeas can be unpredictable this far north, and so I wouldn't give them space in such a small garden. You could look at Hydrangea Tough Stuff, which is smaller and has been more reliable for me (just north of Concord, NH.) Of the shrubs listed, I would consider keeping Bobo hydrangea, which is rock hardy, long blooming, and low maintenance. It needs about 4'. The dwarf spireas will be fine in that setting but generally aren't to my taste since many combine chartreuse foliage with pink flowers. I do like Spiraea 'Ogon' (sometimes is listed under the unfortunate name of Mellow Yellow), which has a graceful, slightly weeping form, gold foliage, and white flowers. It also will be about 4'. Look at Virginia sweetspire, Itea virginica Henry's Garnet (3'-4') or Little Henry (2'-2 1/2') for late summer flowers and stunning red fall color. Some of the half-high or lowbush blueberries would be nice as well, with spring flowers, fruit for either you or the birds, and gorgeous fall color. Rhododendron Checkmate is a small form of PJM (under 3' after many years in my garden), and looks nice all season, including during the winter when its foliage develops a mahogany cast. For easy care perennials, single peonies are great with nice spring flowers and tidy healthy foliage. You would want to cut down and remove the foliage after freeze in the fall to prevent disease problems. Veronica 'Georgia blue' is a great ground cover that will slowly spread by doesn't ever overwhelm other plants. Blue spring flowers and tidy dark green evergreen foliage. Caryopteris 'Snow Fairy' has green and white variegated foliage and blue fall flowers. One of the smaller clematis (type 3 hard prune) on a wire obelisk or trellis or rambling over the Bobos would give summer flowers. The only maintenance any of these require in my garden is cutting back after fall freeze, though you will want to be sure that the soil is improved before planting and that a layer of shredded organic mulch is kept on the beds to keep moisture even and discourage weeds. The bed will need to be edged to keep out the grass, and every couple of weeks look for and pull any weeds that have appeared so it stays looking tidy. I would put in some daffodils for spring color, tucked behind where one of the deciduous shrubs or perennials such as the peonies will cover the dying foliage as they leaf out. Does your dog patrol the fence line? If so, leave space for her/him to run without having to deal with plants. A final suggestion - I wouldn't go with the tag size, which is often given at 5 years. I use the Missouri Botanical Garden's plant finder to look up a more realistic size at maturity.

I agree. Many in my area wait for the tulips to bloom and then plant annuals on top. The bulbs remain in place. They aren't moved or disturbed so they can come back year after year. The annuals "on top" can bloom and grow, too. The bigger question is where you want perennials. It would be better to remove the tulip bulbs in the places you want perennials. At least those tulips came up before you planted out your perennials. There's always Plan A, Plan B and so on! Any bulbs you don't want be sure and trade or give away. I'd hate to see any discarded.