I don't listen to music when I'm outside except if I'm on a walk or in my car. I got in a complete rut listening to practically nothing but violin music for 20 years, but then I rediscovered other of my roots and got back into stuff like Tom Petty, Beatles, Stones, Joan Baez and others. I hear lots of kinds of music at my house because my husband is a big collector of vinyl records and it is going on all the time in our bedroom. He loves all sorts but especially old jazz, r&B and big band. Melissa, your comment about being laughed at reminds me a bit of Simon Cowell on American Idol. I like the guy ok but I really think he goes too far when he tells some people they shouldn't even be singing in the shower. I bet he sticks to that rule and is mute himself. Too bad. Oh, I do listen to music outside when my neighbors are performing it. There's a guy. He used to sit outside by himself all day long every day doing nothing I mean nothing, just sitting. Meditating? Then he started getting visitors. Sometimes they sing. It's great..makes me want to go on over. Also another neighbor is a fairly well known bluegrass mandolin and fiddle player who plays outdoors sometimes. Also I have to listen to people turn their bass up in their cars. Linda

Jeri, You're right, and waiting is no problem at all, since there's always so much going on in the garden. The question in my mind has been whether my roses in the more difficult parts of the garden will ever get beyond their relatively dwarf dimensions; and your answer suggests that they will. I think you're right about the speed with which roses, and other plants, grow in the Southeast. Jennie, would it work over an area of several acres? One consideration is that my pockets are already full: gloves, pruner, folding saw (front left, back left, back right pockets) are the minimum equipment when I head out in the garden. Your solution sounds very convenient in a more restricted area. Melissa

Hello carol6ma and digginthedirt! Thanks for your feedback. Diggin, the situation is a disappointment! Well said. So, I think you may be on to something when you mention the soil prep. I probably didn't do much other than dig a 2ft x 2ft hole and like I mentioned, threw some compost, and usually a little bone meal if I have it on hand. Yes, the bee balm and veronica are in a bed and most everything else in it is happy. That would include, some day lilies, several Clematis, a rose, a lace cap Hydrangea, Rudebekia, Phlox, Obedient Plant and Lupine. Although, I did have a Shasta Daisy and a Penstemon that didnt make it past season one. I'm thinking drainage may be my issue. If that is the case, could I dig up the bee balm, and sort of "fix" the hole with sand and more rocks, and replant? Same with the Veronica? I really like both of those plants, so I'm hoping to find a solution to keep them. But to be honest, I dont really notice clay in my soil and usually find that it is rich, brown and full of fist sized rocks. (that are quite difficult to remove!) As for the Russian Sage, it is located at the top of the hill in our pool area, which I imagine was created when all the dirt was removed from the hole dug for the pool. Its quite dry up there, and has been a challenge for me to grow much, except for Tiger Lilies. My mom politely reminded me that they'll grow in an empty ditch...so that doesn't say much. That is why I added the compost when planting the sage. But perhaps its a matter of right plant, wrong spot. I will send off a soil sample as you suggested. I imagine it will offer some great insight to my dilemna(s)! Thanks again, Tulipsmiles Thanks again to you both!

We are wondering how hard it would be and expensive to clean up all the used cups, holders ect and re pour new high grade scented candles back in to sell as new reconditioned? Difficulty is rather subjective. How difficult to clean up the holders? IMO, not very. Time consuming, yes, difficult no. Much of the wax can be removed by heating the container up just enough to melt the wax so it can be poured out. Then while the wax residue in the jar is still molten wipe the jar out with a rag. Obviously proper safety precautions like ovenmitts or tongs need to be employed. If you do an online search, you will find a number of good sites that go over how to safely heat wax such as use of a double boiler. Additional wax residue can usually be removed after the container has cooled by using a solvent such as Goo-Gone. As far as expense, that too varies. The wax from the old candles can be recycled. I find an array of small butter tubs (or similar) to work well for this. As waxes are melted the colors can then poured into the various containers to be kept separate. Once the wax has cooled completely (a freezer or the great outdoors if you live in a temperate zone that is currently experiencing temps in the 50's or below works great -- colder the better), the wax can usually be "popped" out of the container not unlike icecubes out of an icecube tray. The wax can then be bagged up by color to be pulled out for melting as needed. Many of the wicks may even be reuseable to some extent. If a wick has been partially burned, snip off the burned portion and use the wick in a shorter candle container. Clean cans from soup or canned fruit and such, can be used as melting pots for the waxes. Old pots can be used for the water bath of the double boiler. I use a cheap second hand electric skillet/pan to server as my water bath portion. Cheap second hand cooling racks will be needed for freshly poured candles to cool upon. So far, quite cheap, yes? Now the more expensive stuff: additional wax if needed wicks and tabs fragrances if desired dyes Note: Wax from pillar candles does not make good wax for poured scented candles. Scented candles require a wax with a low melting point so a large melt pool can form as this is how the scent is released. You can, however, blend the pillar wax with soy wax in 50/50 ratio or better a 25/75 ratio and get satisfactory results. Wicks and wick tabs are usually very cheap (like 100 tabs for about $2, can't remember wick prices but they tend to be very cheap too). Fragrances will be the most expensive items if you choose to use those. Do not go to craft stores such as Michael's for scents. IME, they tend to be far more expensive and often of lower quality than those offered at dedicated candle supply store. If you have a store near you, go and check out their offerings. If not, there are some decent online stores. Prices are often about $2.50/oz and you will generally need 1-1.5oz of fragrance oil per pound of wax to get a decent scented candle. Dyes can be purchased as concentrated solid wax blocks/pieces or as liquids. DO NOT try to use food coloring! Food coloring is a water based dye and water and wax do not mix. Dyes will be cheaper than the fragrances as they go a lot farther. Again, as with fragrances, the dyes from a candle supply store will gnerally be far cheaper and better quality than that at a hobby store. There are a number of waxes available. Soy is one of the most popular. No matter what wax you decide to go with (assuming you need to buy more), candle supply stores will be a better deal than a hobby store. At a supply store I recently visited, I got 5 lbs of soy wax for about $9. Make sure you have a digital scale for weighing out the wax and fragrances -- guess work is So hit or miss (and usually miss).