Hello Kelly, I have some Zephyranthes drummondii, white rain lilies. If you want to send your bulbs first, then I'll match the size of bulbs you send. Xtal

I pulled on my chest waders and went into the pond to clean off my lilypads and blossoms. Tons of aphids! Who knew the little guys could swim...shortly after washing them off, they swam, or floated right back on! I pulled out the damaged or dead leaves, and will spray them with the hose a couple of times a day. My mosquito fish will eat them, but they can't keep up. My big fish ignore the bugs. By the way , the reason I use waders is because I have "Backswimmers" living in my pond. Those are bad bugs; they have a bite like a yellowjacket. Imagine an amphibian attack group that checks out everything entering the pond. Scary, and the only way to get rid of them is scim them up and smash them.

One of the first suggestions I would throw out there would be to fertilize. I prefer tabs, about every 3-4 weeks, and they should take off. Side note, over fertilizing can have somewhat similar effect. We go by one tab per gallon of container, check directions. One other common ailment is over treating the pond or too much salt. If you are using a lot of treatment cut back and see if they green up. Also if your salt level is over 1% you are killing plants. Those would be the first suggestion/questions I would have. As far as tools, you can check out a local specialty shop, I just have hip waders and pull them out by hand.

The surest way to kill it would be to dig it up. Failing that, buy a bottle of concentrated Round-up (or a generic version containing glyphosate), poison oak/brush killer (the active ingredient of the one I use is triclopyr), or a combination thereof. In my area, Lowes and Home Depot carry these; I've never looked at real garden centers or WM; agricultural supply places may also have them (but the only one I'm familiar with sells only its own brand). It must be the concentrate (usually 41%). Regular strength won't do. [This comes in large bottles, and isn't cheap. So if the price puts you off, talk to all the people you know who might be battling poison oak, or who have large yards or live in more rural areas. They can probably let you have a quarter-cup, which will last you forever.] To apply the concentrate, you can 1) put it in a cheap squeeze container (reused mustard dispenser, or the $1 version you can buy in a grocery's kitchen-supply aisle) or 2) apply it with a small paintbrush which you will never use for anything else. Then, on a nice warm day (at least 65*, and 70* would be better), cut off some of the branches with green leaves and immediately cover the surface of the cut branches (including the edges of the cut bark) with the concentrate. You don't want it to go into the soil: just on the plant. Depending on the plant's susceptibility, you may see it die within a week or so. If new growth appears, cut off another branch or two and repeat.