agree.. if you dont MURDER it.. with malice and aforethought.. it will be back with a vengeance.. because there is no insult to the root system ... see link for very expensive RUp applicator ... clean it out.. insert RU.. use.. return unused to original container for storage .... 41% is full strength ... on cutting.. there is a green ring just under the bark .. the cambian layer ..... and that is what needs to be treated.. middle dead wood is.. well.. dead ... that green is the vascular system of the plant.. and will suck the killer down into the roots ... i would never pay to have one removed.. but i have space.. if you need the space.. pay or dig.. your choice ... it is an INVASIVE in many parts of the country .. PLEASE KILL it.. do NOT ignore it ... pix of leaves and branches.. if you are questionable on your ID guess ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

--Sunnishine, interesting that you mention The McCartney Rose. Mine (a 1-year ownroot plant) was black to the ground and beyond this spring. It has made one small shoot which also looks sickly. --"Is it in the soil?" Yes, but that's no particular concern. Fungal spores are everywhere always. --The galloping black crud that consumes whole stems is probably Botrytis. It often starts in canes that were pruned while dormant or in premature growth that was frozen. --"What about Daconil?" It is potentially effective against several types of canker including Botrytis. The systemic Immunox is also effective against Botrytis. It might be useful to spray one of these after pruning in spring and after repruning for canker. Since spores are everywhere, sterilizing pruners isn't enough to protect wounds. --Although Wilt Pruf and other anti-transpirants don't give any protection against cold, they might protect against canker if a fungicide such as Daconil were added to dormant-strength anti-transpirant. This might be applied in November and again after a premature grow-out/freeze or after spring pruning. This is just my speculation; there has been no controlled test of it. --As Ann said on another thread, when pruning out canker, try to prune 1" below the visible infection.

I had a heavily brambled area that was supposed to be a right-of-way. I tipped the hand mower up to a 90 degree angle and went for it. Grass established, the area also flourished with wild strawberries, devil's paintbrushes and a lot of other wild flowers. It was a lot more difficult than it sounds and worked out nicely. Most projects are not that straight forward though. What I see a lot of people do is start at the edges of the property and work their way out. I love woodland gardening! Depending upon the situation, you can probably cut a balance between... maintenance, progress, urgent issues and final goals. For maintenance, a lot of people have it somewhat clear around the house. I would be sure that this part of the property is set and work my way out. Progress is starting from maintenance and working your way out. Where I garden, I only have a small patch of woods. My brother has a much larger patch. It is really interesting being right with the plants if you are not too much in a hurry to get everything cleared. I have lots of plants that come back every year that are really wonderful. I can give a whole tour any time of the growing year to point out interesting plants. The children love to hear about pokeberry and how the pokeberry ink was used to write the constitution. The thing is, all different kinds of plants will become obvious during the year. Trilliums (my brother has these) are so lovely! They can get completely lost in a rushed clearing. I start at the edges and remove trees, brush and brambles that are invasive, diseased or crowded out to unhealthy have some of the nicer specimens flourish. Sometimes even a broken dying stump as artistic value. I have gone to garden areas where they have done wonderful things and photographed the stumps! While clearing, I am watching for those lovely surprises by my feet. Trilliums, wild lily of the valley, star flowers really make the place a special home! Urgent issues may come up from time to time. My brother has some wetlands, and wetter property in his woods. He did find it necessary to go on a project to clear out some trees and concentrate on important issues. He had to remove a lot of the Virginia creeper that was choking some house stomping sized trees. This year that is his largest concentration. Final goals can be considered at every point of the project. Even while working on urgent issues, if you have discovered some native or desirable plants, you can probably stick a few in the ground so they can be populating. While clearing, you can be making the path, if you are thinking about a certain route through the woods. I grew up where there were several paths crossing paths through the woods to get to special places. I could branch off towards different springs, to the abandoned quarry or go directly to the pond or visit a friend. Gardening is an ongoing project. I would keep it to enjoyable levels. A couple years from now you will sit back and enjoy your artistic endeavor and think about how you would never arrive.

U-pick caneberry fields out here are commonly plowed between rows, and heavily grassy right in the raised row, year after year. Large weeds with deeper root systems should be kept pulled. After 3 years you should be able to tell if your caneberries are competing well with the grass and weeds.