Root health depends on several things, but the most important of those factors involves a triangle that can work for you or against you. Soils based on fine particles don't hold enough air at container capacity. Container capacity is the state of water retention in the soil after the soil has been completely saturated and has just stopped draining. Soggy soil kills fine roots. When air returns to the roots, the plant spends energy it shouldn't have to spend to regenerate new roots - so a cycle of death and regeneration develops that's extremely costly to the plant in terms of reserve energy. During the soggy period, roots can't effectively take up water and the nutrients they need, which are dissolved in water. Poor root function often leaves the plant unable to keep distal parts, like leaf tips and margins hydrated, so leaves often develop necrotic areas that spoil the plant's appearance. The 3 sides of that triangle I mentioned are your choice of soil, your watering habits, and your nutritional supplementation regimen. All 3 of these important considerations are firmly linked to the each other and affect the others. If you can get them right, your job suddenly becomes much easier and the rewards for your efforts greater. Your margin for error becomes significantly more forgiving as well. You should be growing in a soil that allows you to water at any time of the year, such that the entire soil mass is completely saturated and at least 15-20% of the total volume of water you used to irrigate passes out of the pot through the drain after complete saturation. Get to that point, and the rest is as easy as choosing and using an appropriate fertilizer regularly. Almost all of the problems (health, appearance, insects, disease) described in this forum are related to poor root health. A plants best protection against disease and insects is a robust metabolism, and the metabolism of a high % of plants are suppressed by poor root health. As below, So above - Healthy roots Are what we love If the link I'll leave below makes sense, I'll link you to another thread that goes into detail about container soils and water retention. Gaining an understanding of the information in that thread probably represents the largest individual step forward a container gardener can make. Without question, it transformed my growing experience. Al Here is a link that might be useful: This one first

not really.. a good DEEP watering.. and a good mulch.. and near drying in between is requisite for all trees and shrubs .. especially prior to becoming fully established .. [dig hole sand find out if there is any moisture a few inches down ] and i adrian MI.. its been one horribly hot and drought stricken year ... superficially spraying the leaves and the surface.. is problematic ... since you are shooting down into the plant.. i am thinking it is a shrub ... so we all look forward to further pix.. for a full ID ... and while you are at it.. explain how you apply water ... ken

I have similar thing like that on two of my fig trees when it was over 90 rainy and humid. I thought about rust and sprayed copper several times. Whatever it was gone and the two trees ripened their figs normally.

Possibly Bacterial Spot 'Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria'. Try a product called Serenade or a copper-based plant disease control product.