Thanks for all of the positive feedback! I build the system with 12 net pot holes but already have figured that I may need to keep some of them empty as adjacent plant size dictates. As far a trellesing I plan on "training" the tomato and Squash to twine running from the ceiling, securing the vine every 12" or so then using zip-ties or something to that effect for supporting the fruit/veggie clusters as needed. Thanks for all of the positive feedback so far! I build the system with 12 net pot holes but already have figured that I may need to keep some of them closed-off as adjacent plant size dictates. As far a trellesing I plan on "training" As far as herbs, assuming I get any substantial growth, I am going to keep the herbs pruned (the wife and I cook from scratch regularly and use fresh herbs with most meals. Ideally, I would like to have the squash, the �patio� tomato and the herbs, and then if things are going okay, adding lettuce (or other greens) as space permits. @joe.jr. No, you didn�t miss anything, right now, the 2 bulb T8 fixture is all I have. My plans are to purchase a HID light setup within the next week. I spent MANY hours researching pros and cons of the different varieties available. Once I have the HID setup, I will use the T8s for seed germination in rockwool. So on the HID light topic� I like the specs on a few 400W models that I have found. 400W should be adequate for my 4.5�x2� area, correct? I don�t want to overkill it as overall space and monthly power bills are a part of my equation. I have seen 400W "Light Kits" that include Electronic Ballast, reflective hood, HSP and MH bulbs. The claims are that the ballast and hood can run/fit/hold either bulb type. Is there any validity to these claims? Are there any drawbacks to one of these "combination" HSP/MH kits? Here is a link that might be useful: 400 Watt HPS/MH combo

No, level 4 is not "better" than level 1. It will filter smaller particles at the expense of higher pressure drop. You use the lowest level that will remove the particulates in your water. Using a filter that is too fine will just impede water flow for no reason. Typically, 25 micron is a good place to start. 5 micron is really small, so avoid it unless it is absolutely necessary. The filter should be upstream from your softener. If it is downstream, it is doing you no good -- don't bother placing a filter cartridge in it.

Well: I hope it is the o rings or the tipping barrel. However I don't see how it could be the o rings because if I see things right, the pump and filter box are sitting in the bottom pond and completely contained within the bottom liner. If the barrel were cracked near the top, a change in arrangement could stop things. I don't understand how you determined the lack of leaks by running the garden hose thru the plumbing, but if things are OK, then its not important any more. One thing you mentioned is worth looking into except that things were OK for years. This is the overlap into the lower pond. I did something similar; and while I don't think it has caused me a problem, I can't be sure. If you haven't heard of capillary action, it is the placement of very thin tubes or filiments that draw liquid upwards. The over layment of liners can cause little gaps that act like tubing and draw water up and then crawl along and over the lower liner. When we overlaid our liners, we were supposed to place rough surfaced dividers between the liners to allow large enough air gaps to prevent the capillary action. Again, I doubt that this happened to you because things were originally OK, but who knows? Of course, if you don't have a problem anymore, then Nevvverrrr Mind.

I will try and post a pic tomorrow. We had shut off the water fall and it made no difference. It seems to me that the water level drops because the water outlet or intake into the filter is set so low into the side of the pond. The water runs out to that level and then stops. We tried blocking it partly up today with some success. I am at work now but I will check it when I get home. We are in the Black Hills of South Dakota.