bwalters, I am sorry but I don't make guesses until I have all the information I can get. So I will tell you what I would have a client do with your problems. I usually have the client make the observations as they are easy to make and but are made over a period of time. The first thing I would do is stand a ruler up in the pond so that the ruler is partially out of the water. This makes it very easy and accurate to measure the drop in the pond level. Then I would fill the pond full and record the measurement from the ruler. Then with everything running come back and record the water level and the time. These observations would be no sooner then 4 hours apart but not longer then 8 hours apart. When the water between two measurements doesn't drop then I would refill the pond and turn off the biofalls. Repeat the measurement process and repeat with the 55 gal filter off. These measurements will help pinpoint where the problem is. It will also tell if the leak is at a constant rate and how large an area the water is getting out. The first set of measurements will confirm that there still is a problem. The next two will help tell us what part of the system is the problem. The time between measurements will allow us to know how fast the leak is letting water out of the system and if it slows down when getting close to the leak point. Mike

Suburbanmd, I actually did run his shirt through 3 sanitize cycles, so maybe it is the soap. Strange thing, on the 10 year old now broken machine, I only used warm/cold setting & FS. Perhaps the FS was masking the smell. Also, we have a recirculating hot water pump that was running, so basically it has instant hot water. Plus, the utility room is the first stop in the hot water loop. I can also verify this, as I just could not resist the temptation to put my hand in the flow of the water to test its temp. I have a load of linens to do tonight or tomorrow that I will do with the Kirkland HE liquid I have on hand and just let the machine do its thing as you say. The linens are not really that soiled, just one night stay by a guest, but still it will be interesting to see how it does and to check the soap level. Janet, it is ironic you mention your model number, as when the delivery folks first delivered my machine and placed it, husband looked at it and said it was not the right one. Turns out it was the WM2016CW! What I do not understand is why of all the models they took the water plus feature out of my chosen model. Do you find that the towels are actually in any water in the drum or have they absorbed it all? Mine has so very little you have to hunt for it and move them over just to find the frog puddle. Maybe this is quite normal for FL machines and being my first, I am used to the concept of water in a wash. I am still concerned about how it will do on the dog blankets and dog hair. How can it rinse the hair out when there is hardly any water? Only trial will tell. Oh, and yesterday it started leaking slightly from the front left hand corner! I wiped up water several times including when I first got up, and no, the only high water time was when it did the error code while wildly filling. I have read that over sudsing can cause leaks, so maybe this high water level reached that point? Then again, it might be something else. Do any of the FL machines actually spray the clothes to rinse them while they are spinning, much like the TL do? It seems like this would add a lot to rinsing the clothes. Thanks, Schutzhund

The better the filter does its job the more FREQUENTLY the filter will need to be cleaned and that is easy to do. Although our septic usage allows for pumping every 4-5 years I have to clean my filter every 6 months or EXACTLY what you describe happens until the septic backs up into the house. A small inconvenience for the increased service life of the leach field the filter promotes.

The ht of a perched water column is consistent in any given medium, regardless of the size or shape of a container (not allowing for changes in altitude or the viscosity of water due to temperature fluctuation). You can easily determine the ht of a PWT for a given medium if you: 1) Melt a hole in the bottom of a clear plastic cup. Use a hot nail or screw - hold with pliers. 2) Nest the cup with a hole inside another cup w/o a hole 3) Fill the cup with a hole 3/4 full with your medium 4) Gradually add water. The goal is to make sure the medium is 100% saturated. Don't add water so fast that the larger/lighter soil particles are separated - it's important not to change the soil's structure by adding water. It might take a whole day, or several hours to do this. 5) Remove the cup with the hole and medium from the other cup and allow it to drain. You'll see a clear line of delineation that separates the (lower) fraction of the medium that remains saturated from the upper fraction in which you'll be able to see air spaces between the particles from which the medium is comprised. In most cases, if you're using a medium that supports more than 2" of perched water, you should address it by restructuring your medium (the better choice, from the plant's perspective) or by way of using ballast to limit the volume of perched water held in the container. Let's imagine you use a medium that supports 4" of perched water in a 10" round pot. At container capacity, there will be 314 cu. in. of medium occupied by perched water. If you cut/stack 2 - 2" x 9" discs from Styrofoam or use 2 stepping stones of the same size centered on the bottom of the pot as ballast, you decrease the volume of medium that can hold perched water to only 113 cu. in., and with some judicious planning, you can reduce the amount to less than 10 cu. in.. Tipping the container after it has stopped draining (compere B to A below), or using a wick to "fool" perched water into "thinking" the pot is much deeper than it really is, can be effective strategies, too. For small, easy-to-handle plantings, just water until the soil is fully saturated, then hold the pot over the sink/tub/lawn and move it up and down. This uses Newton's First Law of Motion to rid the pot of ALL perched water - and then some. You'll note that on the reversal from downward to upward motion, water exits the drain hole, and the sharper the change in direction from down to up - the faster the excess water disappears. Al