@DIGDIGPIG I have the exact chipper mulcher, bought it used, had some carb problems.. but it didnt come with the engine manual, would you happen to have one? or know any websites with the diagrams for it? I can only find the operators manual its the 462-465 models. I recently lost the little piece or rubber ring that goes into the tube for the needle on float bulb. so ideally would be nice if I could order a replacement part or carb rebuild kit, but i believe its too old. nothing on the mtd site.

Picked up a used 3hp Simplicity 3C chipper shredder the other day. While the reduction ratio is amazing (I was used to the less than stellar results from a MTD chipper/shredder and a Troy-bilt Vac- on neither of which I used the screen, since they clogged more than functioned corrected in my experience), I was somewhat disappointed with the "suction" or "self-feeding" aspect. I had to use a stick to feed the leaves, v-e-r-y slowly, into the small entry hole. Wet leaves in particular slowed the machine to the point of stalling. A few days later, my Troy-bilt blew it's Tecumseh engine (snapped the camshaft- kinda figured it was on it's way out which is why I picked up the Simplicity), so I tried the 10', 4" dia hose on the back of the Simplicity by removing the plate, using a PVC flange and got NO vacuum, NO suction at all. Is there some other aspect/part of the Simplicity hose attachment? I see that an option for new models is a "leaf tray"- is this the "lid" I see on some models' hoppers? Does that help create a better vacuum, both in the hopper or the back entry port? Also, as an aside, I noticed a lot of surface rust inside the metal B&S gas tank (all my other machines have plastic and it never dawned on me to check the inside of a tank)- should I consider a new tank, a fuel filter or look forward to a new/rebuilt carb soon?

Not having the info to cross reference the serial number I cant help you with a certain identification of your engine. But I will hazard a guess - that its a 3.5 HP motor. You can still get the rebuild kits for the carb. But before I would go buy one - I would: --------------------------------------- turn off the fuel shut-off valve. remove the fuel bowl on the carb and clean it well. with the fuel bowl still off - turn on the fuel shut off valve on - and gently tap the carb with the handle of a screw-driver (not to be confused with a huge ball-peen hammer). Have a coffee can below the bowl when you turn on the fuel valve, to catch the fuel and any parts which might accidentally drop such as a o-ring gasket - or the fuel cutoff assembly. test your fuel shut-off valves operation by " GENTLY GENTLY GENTLY " pressing the float up and down several times - this will shake any debris loose and the flowing gas will help to wash it out . You should be able to see that you can now cut-off your fuel by doing this. (ahhhhh - i just love the smell of raw gas in the morning....) reassemble - and have fun ... If you see that you can shut off your fuel manually - and when its reassembled it still is leaking - then you probably need to bend the float bowl assembly a bit to lower the fuel line in the bowl ( this is not very common situation - and on some models impossible as the assembly is plastic - not sheet metal brass). Ive gone through this routine many times and most of them have negated me needing a rebuild kit... Oh yeah - this problem seems like it stemmed from not having a fuel filter (or cutoff valve)... So if you dont have any of this stuff on your new toy ... Do yourself a favor and get yourself the cut off valve, a small fuel filter, and maybe some extra fuel line. Others may recommend you do the rebuild - but I dont think you'll need it - but i am feeling a bit optimistic today... Some of these fuel bowls have (what I call) a little brass tickler valve / bleeder valve. They are spring loaded and by pressing them you can bleed the bowl dry (if the fuel valve is shut off). I frequently "tickle" the carbonators on my tractors... Because : ----------------- 1) flushes water and crud from the bowl helping to keep the inner carb clean (i get a lot of water in my gas for some reason). 2) its a good idea to empty the carb for seasonal storage. 3) I likes to tickle my tractors, and they likes it too! Good luck to you sir ... Dave

***"I am thinking since I lost the gas cap that the new one is causing a vacuum which causes the engine to lack fuel."*** Loosen the cas cap for a moment when the "fading" begins to be apparent. If it is indeed due to insufficient venting, the engine should perk right away when you "break the vacuum". Try that.