Mine are outside taking advantage of the appropriate temperatures for vernalization. They look pretty similar to last week since the cold has slowed their growth. Supposed to be putting up the hoop house this week, so then I can have them out there. Stuff, yours really should be bigger, mine were started January 17 and 23. I think your container is maybe too shallow. Why not pick the best and give them their own pots? My experience is limited, but I feel like slowing their root growth early on can have bad consequences later. Mine are grown under lights in an unheated plant room without bottom heat (I generally use the bottom heat only for tomatoes and peppers). I guess the temperature in that room is usually near 60ð, give or take a bit. Looking back at your pictures, something is off, yours haven't grown but a tiny bit in 3 weeks. Cheers!

I've had good luck vernalizing young Imperial Star artichoke plants in the refrigerator in past years. I think it's more reliable than leaving it up to Mother Nature, at least in Michigan's variable (wierd!) climate. I do it when they have about 6 leaves and are about 4 inches tall. If all went well, I got them sown on time (early March), germination was prompt, etc., it should now be early/mid May. I let them get a little on the dry side but not wilted, since moisture is the enemy in this operation. I like to dust the foliage of each plant with a little Gold Bond type medicated body powder -- the zinc oxide and plant essential oils are fungicidal -- be sure to get some down into the crown of the plant. Then, I wrap each transplant individually (note, no pot on these, I grow them in cell trays and just pull them from the cells) in a paper towel or napkin, and pack them into a big ziplock bag. Then, seal it up. This goes in the bottom of the fridge for 10-14 days. During this time, they will turn somewhat yellow, they will curve up in response to gravity, and when they come out, will look kind of sad. But, as long as they are kept reasonably dry, they won't rot and dry. It is a GOOD IDEA to pull them out every few days and inspect, so that you don't have a nasty surprise of rotten plants at the end of this process. If rot does start, pull off the damaged leaves, dust with more Gold Bond, and repack in fresh, dry paper towels. You could probably save some of the little packs of silica gel from clothing, shoes, electronics to throw into the ziplock to help control the moisture during this vernalization. After the 10 days minimum, pull them out, repot them into about 4 inch pots, water them well, and stick them in the shade for 24 hours to recover. Then, I put them in the greenhouse and really baby them for a few weeks. At this point, it's probably mid June, about Flag Day, and they need to go into really rich, well-drained, well prepared ground or very large containers (the rope-handled utility tubs are a great size and are relatively cheap and durable as planters). They like a lot of fertilizer and water (but not soggy soil, or they'll rot). You should start seeing blossom initiation in mid/late July or early August, and will get artichokes into October. This has worked for me in the past. Hope this helps.

Growing them in raised beds is not a problem. They are perennial but not in zone 5. Planting in the spring as would be required in your zone, your chances of harvesting a crop before frost is not very good. In the US artichokes are grown along the California coast commercially, where there is little chance of a heavy frost. After harvest is over the plants are cut to the ground to regrow from the roots for next years harvest. Al

I'm not sure how well artichokes do in Central Florida, but I'd love to try them out. Please have a look at my trade list. I have a few flowers and heaps of other stuff. Here is a link that might be useful: Artemis' Lists