Hi Fruitnut!, Of course I know that that mystery fruit is not flavor supreme. LOL. Sorry, I just jumped the subject and went on to something else thats all. Fruitnut, I have been reading this garden forum for a few years now. I am a gardener who grows a lot of veggies and fruit and I know from reading GW forum that you happen to be a Master Fruititioner if that is such a word. You really know your stuff! I have seen quite a few of your pics as well and I really would just love to see what your flavor supreme fruit look like this year...I have already decided that my mystery fruit is a plum mistaken for an apricot-end of that story. When you answered my inquiry, I was very honored that you responded. So I am off and on to other subjects. By the way, I want to say thanks to you and all the other gardeners who have taught me many things to incorporate in my knowledge of gardening! Do have a garden stand?

Hi, The nice thing about foam for an installation like this is that you can fill the rafter bays full of foam, and it has a high R value per inch. This gives you a good total R value even if the rafters are not very deep. With conventional insulation, you have to leave a ventilation channel between the insulation and the roof sheathing, and this coupled with the lower R value per inch makes for a much lower total R value and more heat loss. The foam needs to be the right type, and I believe that you want the closed cell urethane foam that is about R6 per inch. I believe that Corbond is one of the outfits that makes this stuff. The foam is definitely more pricey, but in your case it may be worth it. You might want to post the same question in the Finehomebuilding Breaktime forum -- lots of insulation pros there. In my (probably biased) opinion money spent on things like this (good insulation, better sealing, window treatments) will payoff better than money spent on geothermal heat pumps. Gary

I live in SE PA outside of Philly. The house is approximately 3,400 sq feet. I get very little air circulation in the house with open windows and no trees for shade. So the house bakes in the summer. The system I am replacing is the original system, and is 100k BTU's. The compressor seized up. I was told by 2 different HVAC's guys if I replace the compressor I need to replace the AC unit, and need to match the existing furnace, so I am buying old inefficient technology. They both recommended to buy new and get the 10 year warranty. I will also get a $600 PECO rebate and (I think) $500 tax credit. The Bryant dealer suggested he has some room in his quote, I am thinking he might come down a little. I plan on living in the house for a long time. I am thinking if can come down, I might go with him. I am not sure what you are talking about with the evap coil mdl number. Should that be on the quote? Enclosed are the model numbers - Furnace M#355CAV060100, Air Conditioning M# 187BNA048 The installer is raving about how well integrated the Byrant system is, and with the control thermostat I can monitor the complete system. Is it worth it for a guy who sets the temp and never touches it? My wife and kids are in and out all day long. I also forgot to mention the price may be a little higher than normal, they are doing some duct work and moving the outside pad a little further away. I appreciate the help and advice. GM

Tigerdunes, You know much more about heat pumps than I do. So please educate me. I thought in a dual fuel system set up, either the furnance or heat pump is operational. The switch over is set by a predetermined lock out temperature. For example if the lock is set at 40 degrees, then heat pump would take care of heating needs above this temperature. For temperatures below 40, the furnance takes over. Therefore in the dead of winter, when you several days of temperture below 40 degrees, why wouldn't you want the comfort of a 3 stage furnace? Am I missing something?