Diana, Not knowing how long your plants have had time to establish themselves I will say this. Most plants of the type you are planting need at least a season to become acclimated to their new environment to flourish. Root development is a big part of the adjustment and phosphate (P) is one of the principle elements for root development. Root development will come with a well balance feeding program. And another important item to consider is that your "Drought Tolerant" plants will not be drought tolerant until they become well established. I would use a very mild dose of a low phosphate (P) continuous liquid feed program adding a 12% Humic Acid and Seaweed Extract included in the regimen. In addition, I will make this a very strong point. The addition of a Mycorrizae Inoculant Product is essential to your garden for the best establishment. This product will enhance the intake of moisture and nutrients more efficiently. The following is a brief explanation of Mycorrizae: "Most plant species form a symbiosis (mutually advantageous living arrangement) with beneficial fungi. The roots are colonized by the fungus, which also ramifies through the soil. The combination of root and fungus is called mycorrhiza (Mycor = fungus Rhiza = root). Mycorrhiza is considered such a fundamental part of the plant that most species could not survive in nature without it." My personal experiences with all the above has been highly successful. I believe that many of the drought tolerant apocynaceae plants such as Adenium, Pachypodium and Plumeria can be an important addition to the drought tolerant garden. They bring important structure, character and flowers to a sometimes boring garden. Jack http://cropsoil.psu.edu/sylvia/mycorrhiza.htm

Yeah not looking too good Pal, Aussie natives, and I reckon even South Africans, (leucadendrons) can be difficult outside of their native habitat. Having said that both of those like similar conditions; neutral to slightly acidic soil, excellent drainage, and they hate root disturbance. In fact you can easily over care for them - both are very tolerant of dry conditions. Many also are not happy in humid conditions. Lime, by the way, will yellow the leaves and eventually kill them so I reckon the first thing Id do is check the ph. in the soil. Oh, and if you feed them use only fertilisers suitable for Aussie natives, and use it sparingly. Other than that good luck with 'em B.

As I have tried to make clear previously, I don't dispute that high P levels are relatively more toxic to Proteaceae than to other plant families, but I do believe that many rainforest grevilleas are less susceptible than WA species. Again its a relative thing, and I have certainly found one that isn't. A landscape supplier dumped a truckload of potting mix in my garden, close to some trees but about 6 metres from a G. baileyana. Some months afterwards it died, and on digging up the mix it was full of proteoid roots! Retrospectively, I have realised I have had a much higher proteaceae failure rate since using that mix, so I must find out what's in it. The seller told me it was fine for natives - you'd think that at my age I'd know better than to trust a salesperson, but my problem is I can remember back when most of them were trustworthy. Tony

Some grevilleas are really picky when it comes to soil quality. Most of them hate alkaline soil. They also dislike too rich soil, and too much phosphorus may even kill them. Overwatering may also present a problem since they are mostly dry climate plants. The following link gives you some good advice. Good luck with these beauties! I have a few myself. Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Grevillea