Well, its a bit tricky growing fruit from seeds - Ill try not to rant your eyes off :P A good potion of citrus should/will grow very similar to the parent. THe exception ive read is grape fruit. I dont know how close Meyer will be because it isnt a real lemon, it is a type of orange crossed with a lemon. The good thing is, meyer lemon is polyembryonic, which means the seed has multiple "plants". As for the plu, the only plums ive read that should come close to the parent when grown from seed are some green/yellow plums (these are the only plum seeds ive actually got to grow from seed). IF you do choose to grow the lemon from seed, keep the seed moist, keep the seed clean, and sow in the top 1/4 inch of moist potting soil. Keep it warm. The plums are a bit diferent. Plums need cold stratification. Clean the seeds well, and soak them for a week, changing the water daily. Sow them in moist potting soil about half an inch down ( try to plant them one seed deep). Put them in the fridge for 6 weeks - 3 months, take them out in spring and expose them to cool conditions. They grow very quick. Another thing is, lemons take 5 - 10 years to fruit from seed, plums are closer to 5 years. Lastly - What you may want to do, is find some cheap seedling rootstock that is roughly a year old, and graft some branches of the lemon on trifolata root stock, and graft the plum to some root stock as well. This can be done using saddle grafts in spring or bud grats in summer. This will garuntee that you get those exact trees, and both should flower in 2 - 3 years!

Growing most fruit from seed is a crap shoot. Peaches usually come close to the parent, or at least something desireable. Most citrus are polyembryonic, which means the seed has multiple embryos, making it possible that you will get the parent tree, or something close. Plums seem to be in the middle ground. Ive read greengage and other yellow/green plums will grow close to the parent. Japanese plums (especially the hardy ones) are usually crossed with the american plum (prunus americana (or prunus nigra/canadiensis)). They wont come too close to the parent tree. THe only way to ensure you get good "black ice" plums, is to get a tree, or at least get some scion. Ive read its possible to graft apricot to some plums (the asian types may do better, but thats a guess), and I think its possible to graft SOME japanese plums to european. I will say also, that you may not have much luck with peaches in s alberta. Ive lived in calgary. The thaw freeze cycles you get will probably make the trunk explode, or make it so you wont have fruit (the three years i was there, we had snow and frost into June. This means before, during and after flowering. THe best advice I can give if you decide to try peach (hell, I am!) is to make sure the trunk stays in the shade all winter, and that the tree stays cold until the threat of frost goes away. Even then its a slim chance, but who knows! You may have luck with "toka". Most sources state zone 3 or 4. Its a red japanese/american hybrid developed in south dakota, so it should be more able to survive the praries :D

Yes, and how often have you tried to move a tree any way but the way you believe in? I can't wait until full dormancy to begin moving trees and have moved thousands of fruit trees over the years not fully dormant, bare root. I watch them come out of dormancy and with many of them for years and years after that. I believe this is one of those horticultural issues that has never really been researched. Cornell recommends stripping the leaves when moving them bare root, not fully dormant, but in my opinion, it is just one of those logical leaps often made in horticulture (and most applied sciences) that has never actually seen the light of research. They also recommend against fall planting fruit trees (or at least did up until recently). The trees that I move earlier, when they have some leaves remaining, seem to do a little better than trees I move later when fully dormant, but it is not a controlled experiment and the trees are not equal to begin with. J. plum trees are particularly easy to transplant and respond without hardly skipping a beat. They are a nurseryman's best friend in this regard. I've even moved a couple when they'd already begun leafing out in spring, knocked off the soil from the roots because they were in in-ground growing bags and clay soil that made them too heavy for me to deal with. I threw them into my truck, drove them 100 miles on a clear dry day without protecting the roots in any way, yet, by mid- summer they were completely recovered. At the time I wasn't really expecting them to even live. So you can ignore my experience, but if you always do things by the book there's a lot you will never learn.

I moved a three year old Montmorency cherry tree back around late February this year. The tree responded well and even produced a small bowl of cherries 3-1/2 months after being moved. Keep as much of the dirt around the roots in tact as possible. Using a sharp drain spade (14" to 15" long blade probably 6" wide), I made an appx 3 ft diameter circular dig at a 45 degree angle toward the trunk. I then pried it out of the ground with a spud bar and onto a movers dolley. With our wet clay soil, this was likely as large of a clump of dirt that I could possibly have got out of the ground by hand. It broke up a bit during the move but since everything was wet and dormant it did fine. For its new location, I had a 6" high berm of slightly compacted top soil that I set the tree on top of, then piled more topsoil around it making a 5 ft wide, 18" high mound. Because of my poorly draining soil, this is how I plant most of my trees now. Your soil conditions will most likely vary. I am in Ohio with potentially sub zero winter temps. With your milder winter temps you may be able to move it earlier in the winter, but make sure it is dormant.