Growing most fruit from seed is a crap shoot. Peaches usually come close to the parent, or at least something desireable. Most citrus are polyembryonic, which means the seed has multiple embryos, making it possible that you will get the parent tree, or something close. Plums seem to be in the middle ground. Ive read greengage and other yellow/green plums will grow close to the parent. Japanese plums (especially the hardy ones) are usually crossed with the american plum (prunus americana (or prunus nigra/canadiensis)). They wont come too close to the parent tree. THe only way to ensure you get good "black ice" plums, is to get a tree, or at least get some scion. Ive read its possible to graft apricot to some plums (the asian types may do better, but thats a guess), and I think its possible to graft SOME japanese plums to european. I will say also, that you may not have much luck with peaches in s alberta. Ive lived in calgary. The thaw freeze cycles you get will probably make the trunk explode, or make it so you wont have fruit (the three years i was there, we had snow and frost into June. This means before, during and after flowering. THe best advice I can give if you decide to try peach (hell, I am!) is to make sure the trunk stays in the shade all winter, and that the tree stays cold until the threat of frost goes away. Even then its a slim chance, but who knows! You may have luck with "toka". Most sources state zone 3 or 4. Its a red japanese/american hybrid developed in south dakota, so it should be more able to survive the praries :D

Unless it is on a dwarfing rootstock I'd get it out of the pot. They don't need any feeding if they're in the ground. And young plums often take a while to get going. Did it flower and then not set fruit? That could be the result of the late frosts we had or, as harvestman says, poor pollination. It is self fertile but does better with some compatible friends. Or did it not flower? Here is a link that might be useful: Pollinators for Victoria

Yes, and how often have you tried to move a tree any way but the way you believe in? I can't wait until full dormancy to begin moving trees and have moved thousands of fruit trees over the years not fully dormant, bare root. I watch them come out of dormancy and with many of them for years and years after that. I believe this is one of those horticultural issues that has never really been researched. Cornell recommends stripping the leaves when moving them bare root, not fully dormant, but in my opinion, it is just one of those logical leaps often made in horticulture (and most applied sciences) that has never actually seen the light of research. They also recommend against fall planting fruit trees (or at least did up until recently). The trees that I move earlier, when they have some leaves remaining, seem to do a little better than trees I move later when fully dormant, but it is not a controlled experiment and the trees are not equal to begin with. J. plum trees are particularly easy to transplant and respond without hardly skipping a beat. They are a nurseryman's best friend in this regard. I've even moved a couple when they'd already begun leafing out in spring, knocked off the soil from the roots because they were in in-ground growing bags and clay soil that made them too heavy for me to deal with. I threw them into my truck, drove them 100 miles on a clear dry day without protecting the roots in any way, yet, by mid- summer they were completely recovered. At the time I wasn't really expecting them to even live. So you can ignore my experience, but if you always do things by the book there's a lot you will never learn.

Some trees are in full bloom such as early prunus. Regions that stay above minus 2C for a low may not see damage to flowers. I've seen prunus take frost above minus 3C. Many plants can take it as long as it does not get colder tonight. The forecast was for minus 4C last night but did not occur. That would damage early prunus blooms. Daffs are quite tough so I'd expect them to take minus 2 or 3C. Primulas and many English plants such as winter heather can handle anything above minus 5C. Duration is also a factor. And some species may manifest delayed damage. The cold was significant enough in Vancouver that all (female) Windmill palms will produce a ready (blue) crop of seeds. They are most likely all in semi-dormancy triggering bract maturity. Outflow is sometimes a reset or part of sexual reproduction -even of non-native flora. Males will flower because they were chilled in winter. If things could not take a bit of cold, then Victoria would not have a Feb flower count every year. There would be no palms in northern Florida or from So Cal to Nanaimo. Victoria would have time to reflower if all buds were nuked. But the guys selling daffs out east would not be happy. Cheers