Well, actually, there is one special consideration if you're going to dig up naturally growing plants -- they are clonal and spread from underground roots, similar to the manner some others trees do, such as aspen, bristly locust, American persimmon, and paw paw. So, what you will have is a root that goes down and originates from a much larger, horizontal mother root. Be sure to dig the tree carefully and try to get as large of a piece of that mother root as possible --- try to excavate it out in both directions and get at least a few feet of it. You will probably need either a saw or some good, sharp pruners to sever the mother root, as it's very tough and a spade may not do it without causing a lot of damage. Also, the connection between the young tree and the mother root is fragile, so you might want to use something to reinforce it, such as some small bamboo stakes and some cloth strips, before you try to move it out of the ground. If it separates, the success rate will be lower, but still not impossible by any means. The mother rootstock will probably be somewhere between 6 and 12 inches deep. I tried a couple of times to dig one in the field behind me just before it was developed into McMansions, and the first few didn't make it. Finally, one did take, and it's about 25 feet tall and now and a very nice tree.

Thanks, Chills. When I first read your post, I thought you were way off base. But I've been looking at photos on the Internet, and the overall effect is indeed very similar. However, one web comment describes the leaves as "very delicate (almost succulent) thick, soft and fuzzy" -- which is nothing at all like my friend's neighbor's tree. As of June, its leaves were very stiff, almost as though they were made of plastic, and not fuzzy at all. Also, I had the impression that the tree I saw was planning to stay fairly small and bushy, somewhere in the 10-20 foot range, but I could be wrong. And I'm thinking that no one in their right mind would plant a beech tree that close to their house. But then again, I've seen people plant large species in much tighter quarters than that. If you have first-hand experience with a tri-color beech (or if anyone else out there has), I'd be interested in your thoughts on the above points. Thanks! Here is a link that might be useful: Photo of Tri-Color Beech

Well I've got to figure out where to plant it now. My original plan was to plant it at the bottom of the garden,in full sun,digging out a large hole in the lawn for it,but I've since heard they don't do sun too well(listed as light to full shade on 'shoots') One would think it was a sun lover being so golden! Turns out they're a popular garden plant round here,most planted inappropriately next to fences or the house,the owner thinking they are small conifers,a very common mistake with these plants. And so we end up with a huge chamae blocking the living room window! A lot is down to the seller/supplier not providing the correct info(no label on my tree at all!)

Hi G.M. Is the the tree you posted before under "Can Anyone Tell Me What This Is?" If so, I don't think that's what it is. The Yellowood has "pinnately" compound "elliptical" leaflets. Your photo has "bipinnately" compound "ovate" leaflets. Yellowood is only found in habitat in a few locations along the eastern border of Oklahoma along limestone cliffs and mountain valleys. It is considered rare in Oklahoma. Juvenile trees can be somewhat difficult to id by photo alone. One needs to use bark color and texture, twig color and structure, bud shape, flowers and fruit. Your best bet is studying your neighbors trees for a match. If there is more than one, dig it up, wash all soil off the roots completely, and take it to your county extension office. If the office isn't sure, they will send it to OSU for an expert opinion. randy