Hi All, I just joined the site, and was hunting for information about the Eucalyptus...I see that the last posting was awhile ago (July 26th), but I'm hopeful one of you will read this & HELP!?! I brought home a very small Eucalyptus (don't know the variety) that fit into my miata (with the top down of course), so it was only about 6' tall, and very skinny. I remebered the ones I had seen along Hwy 101 between Eureka and Arcata, California and thought how pretty they were, and nonchallantly (sp?) planted it in my back yard near the walkway, about 6' from our garage. Well, two years (maybe 3) and some months later...it's HUGE, and leaning into the garage...not touching it with the trunk, but the branches do brush the roof all the time, and the leaning trunk is only about 5 inches from the edge of the roof! Now...obviously, the tree has to come down for certain. I checked with a few of the "big tree" places to see if they wanted it since it's very healthy, but no takers. So, my husband and a friend are going to cut it down, which saddens me a bit, but...what else can be done! MY BAD! My question is...does anyone out there know what kind of root structure this kind of tree has? You see, we have an oil tank somewhere in the vacinity of the tree, and once cut down, we're going to have to dig up the roots. I know that for certain, we can find out the hard way, but I was hoping to find out whether the roots go straight down to you know where?, or if they grow out, more laterally. I'm not sure how to include a picture since I don't have a website, but I'll try to look up how to do that, and then include a picture. Suffice it to say (for now) that it's about half again the height of the garage...and climbing! Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer!

I disagree with the statements about having to fell the tree due to such misfortune. While there will be a union where the new growth will appear, soon, it will re/unite with it's characteristic form. Such a big tree will get to that point much faster, the speed and strenght of the healing and conforming process is faster and very effective3 in larger trees. In about 5 years, you will not be able to easily discern the area of the split. Cut all the splintered area off, and soon your tree will be strong. Please, do not fell this tree, that would be totally unnecesary. Jaime.______________________________________________

wow.. what an amazing colors on your macropedia fuliginosa to bad it only lasted one year (i am definitely trying that kind next year allthough the seeds are not so easy to find i discovered). Ok so the black spots are not good but if it doesnt affect flowering that much i shouldnt worry to much about it. Do you know if the stalks with the flowers on the Kangaroo Paws should also develope in the first year, mine only show the grassy leaves but no stalks yet? Also thanks for the tip on the grevilleas they are beautifull, i will try a few species next year in spring. Sadly i do not have a garden but i have a balcony which is packed to the rafters (i think thats the expression used in Australia :D )with plants and i converted one window in my house into a sort of greenhouse so everything is in pots. I do have the option to plant them out in my mums garden but since our winters are pretty cold most will have to go back inside when it strats freezing. But i am also interested in bonsai so next year a few of the different trees i have will go in the ground to make the nebari grow a bit more. Here are a few pics off the limited space i have...

Sisygium lumanii grows quicker, responds much better to pruning, will not suddenly drop dead on you, is resistant to psylids and other pests, and is considerably denser. It is also much more suitable to the height of 4 to 5 metres and to pruning - in fact pruning makes it denser and therefore much more suitable for a hedge. I use it for that purpose, especially sisygium lumanii 'Lulu' - the weeping variety, occasionally available from Big W, at a reasonable price.