If you google how to grow onions or scallions many sites will tell you they need sulphur. The sulphur produces the pungency. Is that fertilizer especially formulated for onions? 10-20-10 is what Dixondale recommends. According to what I read your pH is perfect for onions--why are you adding the lime? I don't know if that amount of sulphur would alter the pH. I believe I read somewhere that once they start bulbing you can then forego the extra sulphur so maybe you could then switch to something else. Here is a link on how to grow onions from the experts. They cover what sort of nitrogen fertilizer to use based on your soil pH when you start sidedressing. You could always google how to grow onions or scallions and look for university-based commercial production information . Glad you asked the the question--I have some onions growing right now (rather poorly) and I realize I need to fertilize them more since I read the Dixondale information. Here is a link that might be useful: Dixondale

I know blueberries will do well in most of that soil, but I REALLY want a nice little kitchen garden, although I wouldn't mind a nice blueberry bush. In a sense I do live in a caldera, at least in the summer (central AR summers are miserably hot and humid). My neighbors across the street are the only ones I've noticed who grow a garden, and theirs is primarily of ornamentals (roses, etc). The current naturally growing plants ("weeds" in laymen) are mostly clover and a bamboo screen that is very well established. I've read that bamboo thrives in acidic soil, and I suppose this explains why. Is it making it more acidic? Can I sheet mulch and just hope for the best? I really want to do a Three Sisters patch and grow lots of tomatoes. I've also read that wood ash can help increase soil pH. What are the most effective methods of applying these?

Those leaves look like they're suffering from iron chlorosis. The soil could be iron deficient, but iron chlorosis is often caused by alkalinity. I think it's far more likely that your potting soil is getting less acidic, not more acidic. Why do you think it's becoming more acidic? Have you had tests that show it, or is it because the leaves are turning yellow with green veins. If the former, I'll bet you're using a home test kit and I suspect it's not very accurate. If the latter, you've misdiagnosed alkaline conditions as acidic conditions. Get a small amount of fertilizer that says something like "for acid loving plants" or "rhododendron fertilizer" or "azalea fertilizer" (if it has some iron in it, that's even better). you probably want to get something that is water soluble/fast acting. If you're still thinking it's due to acidity, test it with one plant and see if it makes a difference. I really think you need to lower the pH of the soil, not raise it. One other thing to note is that you should make sure you're not over watering. Too much water can also cause chlorosis.

Yes and no, you can grow hydrangeas in our Dallas/Fort Worth alkaline soil. I live in Hurst, just west of D/FW Airport, and planted mine with organic compost mixed with the local soil. I also add ammendments once a year to keep the alkalinity from getting too high. By the way, "assorted" hydrangeas generally are macrophyllas. Otherwise, hydrangea leaves develop iron chlorosis (the leaves turn yellow except for the leaf veins which remain green). Adding iron chelated liquid products or acidifying the soil with Hi-Yield Soil Sulphur, ammonium sulphate or aluminum sulphate (if you do not have azaleas) will also work. You can get these products at Calloway's, The Plant Shade, Redentas, Blooming Colors, Monday Landscape, HD Landscape, etc Some acidity is also needed to change the color of pink/blue macrophyllas but that is a difficult thing to do and monitor. Whites, of course, will not change color. Most colored hydrangeas will be pink here due to our alkalinity. Purchased blue/purple, they will revert to a shade of pink in time. The withering problem is an indication that (1) summer is approaching and our temperatures have reached into the mid to high 80s some days and (2) more water will be needed as June aproaches. Make sure that the plant has 3-4 inches of mulch past the drip line. Also make sure that it gets dappled shade (3-4 hours of sun) and is not planted in a windy location. Plants that get sun after 10-11am will show signs of sun burn. About 1 gallon of water twice a week is ok in spring but make it three days a week as summer arrives. Because you are not used to the watering requirements of hydrangeas, I suggest that you check it daily for 2-3 weeks until you see a pattern developing. Insert a finger to a depth of 3-4 inches. If it feels wet, the plant is getting too much water (this can cause root rot and fungal infections in the leaves). If the soil feels moist, take no action. If it feels dry or almost dry then water. As soon as you notice how often you are having to water, you can continue watering every "x" days. If you hear of a wind advisory during summer, water the night before if you can; wind causes unexpected wilting here in July and August. Wilting is a fact of life here for large leaf plants here in the summer. However, watered well, the plants recover on their own by bed time or next morning. I keep an eye on them daily as soon as we get into the mid 90s to 110s. If the plant looks VERY wilted, I water immediately; otherwise I wait... I increase the amount of water on a regular basis (to three days a week) when wilting persists past next morning or when plants show to be in VERY wilted conditions when I get home in the afternoons. This is where checking manually with a finger helps prevent watering too much. In the fall, reduce the amnount of water. And since the ground here does not freeze, remember to water during winter too. The plant will be semi-dormant and drop leaves but I still water them 1/2 gallon to 1 gallon weekly during those times. Sunscald is easy to identify & indicates that the plant is getting too much sun. You will notice the leaves in direct contact with the sun turning yellowish and later, affected areas dry/brown out. Fertilize in May and July with about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of cottonseed meal. If you have to prune, do it before July as flower buds for 2008 will begin developing then and you do not want to cut them off. Good luck barbie26, Luis