Thanks everyone. Not close to house. Thats a good point I never thought of though. Thanks. I got these from Lowes on the cearance rack. They have already dropped their leaves once this year and leafed out again. Just in the last day the leaves pictured above are brown, crispy and I pulld them today. Should I be concern with the plant dying? These trees are about 36" high with two main trunks about 1/2" in diameter. It gets sun until about 3pm. Anything I can do to help the poor fellas?

I really wanted to soak the rootball in superthrive when I got the tree, but I couldn't find any in my area. Do you think I might be underwatering? I did move my tree back into the more sheltered area of the front porch and the burn hasn't gotten worse, but it's only been a couple of days. We are going through a drought right now in Chicago. If the top of the soil is moist, I haven't been watering. And when I do water, I do a deep watering. The container is also well-drained so far as I can tell. It's a container in a more ornate planter, with the plastic container for the tree placed up on some thick styrofoam so water will drain out into the larger planter. I used some leftover foam used for insulating the garage door. Nice and thick! The water does collect at the bottom of the big planter. I'm not sure if I'll try to do bonsai with this tree or not. I had planned on putting it on my back deck, but since we haven't lived in the house very long and since I work days, I'm not extremely familiar with the sun patterns and what time the shade from our neighbor's very large trees hits the deck. Plus you're right--with the shock from shipping and repotting, this isn't the year to put Mr. Maple in his permanent home even if conditions are right.

i dont really know if this is scientific or not ... i will stand corrected if it is ... frost can happen anywhere above freezing .... in F.. sorry ... between 32 and and 38 ... its reduced by air movement .... it happens very late at night ... or early morning... and it can cause very minor damage ... maybe just a leaf or two.... or even just individual wall cells in a leaf ... which them brown a week or two later ... a freeze if below 32 ... is that zero C? ... can destroy all leaves ... [but the plants usually releaf in a few weeks .]... it can burst plumbing.. hoses ... standing water freezes solid ... which can leads to all kinds of problems if you have a lot of very wet pots in spring ... as i said.. maybe its just terminology that i came up with to differentiate between severity ... and there is no scientific based for my blathering ... i like to tell peeps.. up here in ground freeze areas ... overwintering is a matter of getting it dormant.. and keeping it dormant.. until as late in spring as you can .... and when we have a temperate winter.. and things pop out early .... even if snow is gone ... there is a long frost/freeze cycle ... and that is usually worse than winter itself .... a plant might have a sense of humor with leafing out.. and getting frosted back ... most releaf ... then a few weeks later.. the same things happen.. and boy are you using up the plants stored energy ... if it happens a 3rd time ... you have big trouble ... because by that point.. there isnt going to be a lot of stored energy left ... ken https://www.google.com/search?q=freeze+damage&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi5i_SK6M7SAhVH04MKHXKfAdUQ_AUIBSgA&biw=892&bih=743&dpr=0.9#q=frost+damage&*

First, It is far too close to whatever structure that is behind it.....you need to allow at least 10' (15' would be better) clearance. These form a wide, vase shaped canopy. The coral bark I planted in my old garden was about that size initially but grew rapidly to a height of 18-20' and with a canopy spread of 20-25'. Is it exposed to more sun on your garden than it was at the nursery? That could certainly account for some scorched foliage, especially the topmost leaves. May also have experienced some transplant shock as well. Finally, I'd question your watering practices. When you water, you want to soak the rootball and surrounding area thoroughly........a "couple of minutes" is not going to achieve that. It would be better to use a hose, leaving it on a low trickle until the soil is fully hydrated (low and slow). You may have to reposition the hose a couple of times to get full coverage around the tree. And then don't water again until the soil dries down several inches (4-6"). Twice a week at this time of year should do it.....less as it gets cooler or if fall rains are present. Don't be concerned about a schedule - water as required but deeply and thoroughly. At this time of year, I wouldn't be too concerned about the foliage looking rough. Newly planted trees often enter dormancy early as a response to stress. As long as it was planted correctly (rootball gently loosened) in well draining soil and with adequate watering, it should be fine. But I would seriously reconsider the current placement and relocate it once it has fully entered dormancy to a more open position where it can grow to size unhampered.