"The leaves are just opening and they are curled up, wrinkled and distorted. Small amout of black just on the very edge of some leaves." That sure sounds like pear blister mite to me. I partially agree with Scott. Many times the leaves damaged by blister mite are partially red or have red spots, but not always. Sometimes the leaves are crinkled with black edges as you describe. Depending on the stage, sometimes the leaves just look crinkled. In the Midwest, blister mite is one of the most common minor pests on pears in home orchards. It didn't show up on my trees for several years. An oil spray at, or slightly before green tip completely takes care of it for me. ABJJ, We get tons of wind here in KS and I've never seen wind damage on pears. I don't know much about salt damage, but it would seem strange to me for it to show up all the sudden.

Well, here's what happened to the pictured tree. And others. I cut off all of the dead branches in May. That did not seem to leave much. I fertilized with Alaska fish emulsio for the high nitrogen. The trees made a come back, although the most infected tree did not return to its former glory. In November, I pulled off all of the leaves by hand, because I read that I should be dormant spraying the tree then and they still had leaves. It's not as difficult as it sounds, these are genetic dwarf trees and are under 5 feet tall. Then I sprayed with Kocide. Once it dried, I tied each branch into a bundle, and covered each bundle in a white plastic garbage bag, then tied it into place. In March, I uncovered the trees. By then I read that Kocide isn't very helpful, so I sprayed with some lime sulfur. Here is how one tree that was severely infected last year, looks now. They bloomed like crazy. I thinned out about 2/3 of them today. The most infected tree that I thought would die, has a couple of dozen peaches and lush growth. I've picked off about 10 mildly infected leaves from the 2 trees, combined. Not bad considering that all leaves were devastated last year. The tri-lite peach-plum was subjected to the same treatment. No curl at all. It is only in its 2nd season, so I don't expect much. It has 4 peaches.

tzvi, I see from your first post you're in NJ perhaps? I wanted you to see what CLM actually looks like. Here are two very good photos: And this one you can actually see the CLM larva at the end of the tunnel: The tunnels are the giveaway, and very, very obvious. No guessing with CLM :-) At this time of year, I would suspect aphids. They appear usually in the early spring and will cause leaf curl. So will psyllids too, though. So, that is a little disconcerting. But, your bug photo doesn't look like a psyllid to me. When they're attached to a leaf, they are very easy to identify because they point the ends of their abdomens up in the air. And, you can see how a photo looks embedded in a message. Much easier for an old fogie like me to be able to check out and answer :-) I would check out your state's cooperative extension web site, and look up agricultural pests to see if you can match up the image of your bug to something there. Or better yet, send it off to a coop extension agent to ID for you. In any case, I would say an insecticidal soap should kill the offenders. If you want to resort to an insecticide, imdicloprid will probably also be affective, but it's always best to get a confirmed ID if you can, so you can use the least toxic method to eradicate the pest without harming our beneficial insects or yourself. Patty S.

Well you definitely have a good case of 'tomato leaf roll' going on and that indicates severely stressed plants. You can Google that term for more details on it. The problem is identifying what all is causing the stress and that will be the usual suppositions you'll have to check out: rootbound plants in such small containers, insufficient fertilizer since regular weekly feeding is required for container plants, over watering or inconsistent watering (periods of dry followed by periods of soaked etc.), poor draining mix in container though both of those should be fine unless you used MG Moisture Control Mix, the aggressive use of the soap spray which causes its own issues, weather/storms, etc. The when it comes to tomato leaf roll the odds favor excessive and/or inconsistent soil moisture levels as the primary cause. I would suggest removing all of the damaged foliage ASAP and doing a bit - just a bit - of constructive pruning to reduce the size of the plants and its demands, give it a good feeding of a diluted-to-1/2 strength liquid fertilizer and continue to monitor them for the quality of new growth. If they continue to decline or if they begin wilting regularly then they are rootbound and will not survive. 5 gallon buckets are the MINIMUM recommended size of container and are very problematic unless growing dwarf varieties. Hope this helps. Dave