Hmm, I was checking to see if you had commented and I had a thought... that when you talked about a fungus/disease, that maybe you were referring to the grayish growth on the bark in your photo. Is that what you are concerned about? While I could be wrong, that dirt looking thing may be lichen. Lichen looks like dirt on the bark and is not usually a problem per se. It can be killed with some copper fungicide. Lichen are organisms that do not hurt the camellia but sometimes, when they show up, it may be becasuse the plant in question is stressed already by something else. They are most commonly found / are host to Souther Magnolias and Camellias. Or maybe the plant is just fine and simply got chosen as a host place. Hard to tell since we cannot ask them. So, think of lichens as sometimes indicating a problem; and check the 20 plants for problems. To find out if the plants are stressed, you could do a soil test to make sure that the soil has adequate levels of minerals, has a good pH Level, has mulch all around; has no fungal or pest issues on the top & bottom of the leaves and make sure that the soil is not kept wet for long periods, something that could cause root rot and make the lichens show up. If you were not pointing to that area in the picture as the problem, oops, sorry. See if you can send me pictures or if you can post them. We may all be able to comment on leaf problems (if that is what you have) if we see something. Here is a link that might be useful: Information about lichens by ACES

Unless it's one of those 'instant garden' plants, I suggest you remove it from the ground and check the root ball. You said it had been parked in a basement over winter: it may be that the root ball is internally dry. Drop it into a bucket of water. If it bubbles like a kettle on the boil that's where you start. Sometimes, if a plant has been in it's container for a while the roots will have felted across the bottom and there won't be much available to take in food and moisture. Brutal though it sounds, cut off the bottom inch, and gently scrape off the old surface soil. When you've done this, plant it into a container that is no bigger than an inch wider than the root ball. Shallow is fine. This is because Camellias can be slow to send out roots and having too much potting mix means water will be sitting - a sure bet for rotten roots further on. Put some fresh mix on the surface to replace what you took off but don't add any extra fertiliser. Be sure that the mix you use has NO 'water crystals and is very free draining to encourage root growth. Stand the pot on feet in a spot that is sheltered from the wind and midday sun. Wait. It may take all summer for a recovery. Keep it lightly moist. It's probably best to dunk the pot in water once a week so it is thoroughly wet, then slowly dries out, rather than spritzing it with the hose. When you see new leaves emerging sprinkle about a teaspoon of a reliable slow release fertiliser on the surface. Another possible is pelletised sheep manure. Just make sure it doesn't crust and stop water getting through. As summer moves on, give it more light and let it get its new leaves toughened up. If you're prepared to provide it with frost shelter over the winter (frost cloth or a hessian cover) and it has recovered, you might want to plant it out at the end of August when the soil is still warm and you've got about eight weeks before Frost in Earnest begins. (I'm assuming you're at the southern end of the Island.) If you check over the hole you created for it - is it flooded at all? If so, choose a better-drained spot. You could do it now and use the site for annuals - weeding and feeding until it's time to plant out. PS - I've had Apple Blossom in a 20l bucket since 1987. Flowers reliably. In good health. It's an option, anyhow.

Pat, it's called 'powdery mildew' and it's a type of fungus. It's also very common on lilacs, roses and more. Usually if your plants get a lot of sun and warmth with good air circulation, it will help to prevent it. When conditions are humid and plants get shade, or when the leaves stay wet overnight, etc. it is more likely to appear. That's why it's best not to water in the evening, especially now that it's getting dark earlier and nights are cooler. It generally doesn't kill the plant, although it looks unsightly. It can weaken plants though, and make them more susceptible to other, more serious diseases. You can search online for treatment, but generally a mix of neem oil (available at most garden centers) or even canola oil with a little dish detergent is sprayed on the plants. Best to do this on a cloudy day in the morning, not in bright sun. So anyway now that you know what it is, you can also look online for more information. Hope this helps.

Thanks everyone! Jean001a - Would wet feet/soil contribute to it? Seysonn - Will do! I have 8 more cubic feet of the 'chunky' stuff, which is just marked as Local compost--its unfinished compost with a lot of wood pieces still. I've been mixing coffee grounds in with them. Would you suggest I actually put these bags into my compost pile? Which is about 10 cubic yards of fresh and dried grass clippings. I have about 2 more cubic yards of used Coffee grounds as well. -- Here are my thoughts and updates! GOOD NEWS! **Here's what I've done since I first posted this.** I turned off my drip-system. We had two days of rain just prior to me posting this. It was very wet. I added a bag of soil to one of the beds--haven't all of them but will be doing today or tomorrow. Fertilized twice with my 'starter' solution for seedlings/transplants. Its heavy on Nitrogen. **What I plan to do** Water less frequently and split my drip-system up. Currently it's all one set for my 8 beds and my patio with container plants that need watering more often. Watering every 5 days or so, 20 minutes with two emitters that do 20 gallons per hour, so with two, that's 40, only at 20 minutes so that's 15 gallons per bed over 20 minutes or so? Since it's not directly to the soil. Find a way to increase drainage--I didn't use rocks or anything on the bottom of the beds, I only tilled them with a hand tiller. Could I aerate them to increase drainage--stab them a bunch of times 12-24'' down? Maybe install a few PVC pipes thru the lower portion with a screen on one side so run off can easily escape? The beds are at an angel/slope, 6'' one side, 10'' the other. My natural soil is very clayish, sticky when wet. The lower corner of the beds have either brick or hard lumps of soil filling them (I know, I'm so pro). Could I maybe use some kinda mesh instead to hold the soil in and thus allow air/water to flow out easier? Filling the soil level up in all the tomato beds beyond the brim with a pre-veggie garden soil mix. **Observations and Photo update** I've observed all my plants are doing much better since I've stopped watering them. It appears to have been my #1 problem. I still see mushrooms in most beds in the morning, leading me to believe the soil is still rather moist even now. All the plants are doing -much better-. I had yellowing cucumbers that are vibrant and dark green now, growing quickly. My melon plants are growing similarly as well. I'm going to get the net trellis installed today. My pepper plants appear to be turning a darker green adn getting more foliage---three of them have fist sized fruit on them. I've picked off flowers/fruit off all but the largest and I know they all are still pretty small. Tomatoes Tomatoes Tomatoes -- They are ALL doing much better! Many of them are growing new leaves WITHOUT LEAF ROLL! Some have slight leaf roll, but not the deranged totally gnarled looking ones. However, two of them are not AND have white spots/yellowing leaves/insanely twisted leaves still -- while a plant of the same species right next to it shows NONE of the same signs of sickness. SuperSweet100's Thank everyone for all the help. I really do appreciate it. I've learned so much from all of you over the last year. :) I'm just wanting to ensure I'm taking all the necessary steps to have a good yield this year and learn how to make next year way better! :) Here is a link that might be useful: Syntria's Gardening Videos