Lizzy, post the HTML code, not the URL. That will put your photo right into the body of your message. You'll know if it works when you preview your message. Your photo will show right up in your message :-) Just float your mouse over the photo and the "Share:Edit:Delete:Move" window pops up. Left click once in the HTML code window, and that code will then get copied to your Windows clipboard. Now all you need to do is right click in your message and select "Paste". Your HTML code for the photo will then be pasted into your message. And Lizzy, to respond to your soil, which you mentioned is mainly DG: So is mine. Adding amendments to DG will not help. You're MUCH better off adding a good layer of compost as I mentioned to the tree wells. It is not recommended to amend soil for trees. Your tree needs to learn to live in your soil. And the way nature takes care of this is by organic materials building up on the soil surface, then slowly being broken down my soil microbes creating a rich layer of organic material on top of the soil (i.e., topsoil). You can speed this up by adding compost 3 to 4" deep in your wells. Fertilize. Then top with wood chips to help retain soil moisture for us in drier climates. You don't mention where you live, but I'm assuming it's either S. California or Arizona where DG soils are common. You can add your location and your Sunset zone to your GW User Name (see mine). Very helpful to know, as we have forum members from all around the world. Many of the Citrus Forum members only grow their citrus in containers due to their winter weather. And for our Citrus Forum members, I had asked Lizzy to post over here. Here was my previous advice to her from the Orchards Forum: Okay, applenut is correct, never amend your soil. You just create a hole the tree will love to live in, and the roots will be less inclined to venture out. Instead, you should dig a hole about 2 to 3 times as wide as the root ball to loosen up your native soil. Plant the tree at the same height it was in, in the pot. Create a nice large well around the tree, with the perimeter of the well lower than the height of the trunk (so water will drain away from the trunk, and to the feeder roots which are at the edge of the canopy and a little beyond. What is known as the "drip line".) Mulch 2 to 4" deep with compost, then top with wood chips to help maintain moisture. If you're on clay soil, you're much better off building raised beds (a whole different topic). Wait to fertilize for a couple of months, until the feeder roots are established, then fertilize about every 2 months from Feb/March through Oct/Nov with a good citrus fertilizer that also contains micronutrients (Grow More Citrus & Avocado food is an excellent product). Don't worry about adjusting the pH. Not necessary here in S. California. NEVER allow overhead sprinklers to water your citrus trees as you currently are doing. They do not like their trunks wet, and this is a sure way to kill a young citrus tree, fast. Instead, use microsprinklers or 2 to 4 drips to fill the well (with young trees, they only need one or two drips, but lay 4 and turn them on as your tree grows, as well as move them out and away from the trunk to follow the canopy edge). Water well enough so that the soil is moist for about 12 to 18" deep. The philosophy of deep watering has been revamped for citrus. Citrus are shallow rooted trees, so if you're watering 2 to 3 feet down, you're just wasting water. The easy way to know - use a rod (I use one of those cheap green plastic covered metal plant stakes you can get at Home Depot/Lowes). If you can easily insert the stake 12 to 18" down, your soil is moist enough. You may also need to apply a micronutrient foliar application, soil drench or micronutrient granular application in the early spring/late winter, as our S. California soils tend to get depleted, and our colder winter rains can lock out the absorption of micronutrients, which will cause your leaves to look chloritic. It's usually not iron deficiency for most folks in S. Calif, but manganese deficiency. You can use Grow Power Citrus Grower's Blend, which is a water-soluble micronutrient product that can be sprayed on the leaves or poured into the soil. Here is a good resource for you to manage your citrus. I agree with applenut, your trees may be too wet. Check the soil and see. If so, turn off your sprinklers, then pull them out, and set microsprinklers or drips. Once established, a once a week watering is probably fine except during our very hot days in the summer, when you'll need to check and make sure your trees don't get too dry. They first symptom of being too dry will be cupped leaves. This is actually how commercial growers know to water their orchards. And, bookmark this site: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/Citrus/ This is the UC Davis Backyard Orchard-Citrus page. Very helpful for us here in California. Lastly, you're probably better off posting this sort of question either on the Citrus Forum or on the California Gardening Forum. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: Four Winds Growers: How to Grow Citrus in the Ground

David, it's really hard to know at this late date, what caused your tree's demise. It could be many things, but not the orangedog. I would check the root system, first. Dig down and see how wet or dry the roots are. Also, seems like the tree is in the shade? It would help if the tree was in full or near full sun. Citrus will grow in the shade, they are pretty good about that, but the more sun, the better. Being in the shade also would not cause the tree's demise. I suspect this is ether a watering issue, or possibly, since you're in Florida, the result of Citrus Greening disease. But, the latter is just a guess, because it is too late to see any mottling chlorisis on the leaves, which is a diagnostic tool to use. Based on the dead brown leaves under the tree, I'm suspecting under watering, but don't know for sure because you haven't checked your soil to see if it is sandy, loamy, or clay. All make a huge difference with regard to water retention. Your watering and rain may be insufficient if in sand, or too much water if in clay. Your roots will tell you. If they are mushy, rotten, black or smelly, it's too much water. If brown and dried out, not enough water. If they look pretty normal (beige/white/lt. brown), then I would start looking at other causes, such as Citrus Greening. Patty S.

@ Dave in NoVA That's a really good guess, for all intent and purpose it is jungle. I just try to not sound too dramatic by calling it that. Specifically, I live on the windward side of Big Island at about 800'. To those knowledgeable, that explains the amount rainfall and temperature range where we live. We're right on the cusp of USDA zones 12a and 12b. Those trees that I've cut down in the background, and other invasive weed trees, can grow as much as 10 to 15'/yr, or more. If I do not go around the orange tree with a brush cutter within a year or less, the weeds will begin to actually overgrow the fruit tree. That is part of the reason I want to extend the lawn area to include the tree. Grass likes to be mowed, weeds do not. From the end of my OP in this thread: [quote] ... I live in a high rainfall area [150"/yr]. I had thought that dry fruit would not be any kind of a problem. But, a few of the oranges just picked from the tree had dry grainy section ends towards the top of the fruit. What would have caused this? ... [/quote] Anyone able to address my question in the bold text above?

This tree needs a lot more light. It ether needs to be in a south window or under lights. what I do for the New Zealand Lemonade tree below. Plenty of light with fresh air drawn for 10 seconds a each day. seed grown Meiwa in bucket with broader lamp seen below.Close up of Meiwa sharing bucket with cherry tomato plant. 12 more seedling meiwa under bucket light close up of 6 of the 12 as seen through a 1 inch peak hole on top of the bucketYou camn use a lamp like mine above to shine down with out the buckets that I use. 6b Steve