The plants have gotten worse since I posted the pictures (more yellowing with the edges of the leaves drying up). I fertilized them 5 days ago with Peters 20-20-20 diluted to one third strength but have not seen any positive changes. I think my mistake was using standard potting soil to pot them up and then adding too much water. Even though I have poked many holes in the pots, the potting soil appears to be retaining the water and they are not getting a chance to dry out. To try to salvage these plants I am going to put them in the ground this weekend and cover them with Wall-o-Waters. Hopefully I can report back in a couple of weeks that the plants recovered. As I am trying to learn from my mistakes, I have started the seeds for my main planting which will be in mid to late April. This time I will only be using Pro-Mix soilless and I will be very stingy with the water. I guess I should have paid more attention to the OSU and Rutgers seed starting guides: http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-1377/HLA-6020.pdf njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/download-free.asp?strPubID=FS787

The white stuff are whiteflies and their eggs, we have an infestation problem with them in South Florida. Whiteflies are from the tropics and can carry a disease called tomato yellow leaf curl virus. Leafhoppers also carries it. Once your plant is infected with leaf curl virus, the plant will almost stop growing and not produce anything, there is no cure. I'm not saying whiteflies definitely carry the virus, they may not, but it is something I've very wary of. I was not able to grow tomatoes for the most of 2015 because of them. Whiteflies like warm temperature so there are much less of them during the cooler months. They prefer shade, warmth, and protection from wind. They are attracted to nightshade plants, the virus infect nightshade plants such as tomato, pepper, goji, potato, basil. But they are attracted to a wider variety of plants while not infecting them, like the "bidens" plants (common lawn "weed"), brassica crops, banana and other type of leaves that may provide good shades. This season growing tomatoes in spring with the cooler temperature I have less problem with them. Also with mulching and keeping the plants healthy reduces my pests issues. I notice whiteflies like to attack the lower sick leaves, so I pruned them and maintain a good airflow in the bottom.

@ken I'm sure that these are two different problems giving that they have different colours, shape/pattern and are on the opposite sides of the leaves - I may be wrong. I sprayed bacon soda and soapy water (to kill the aphids) on most of the peppers BUT I didn't mulch around the plants in the pots so I saw some pepper plants with soil spewed all over the undersides of its leaves. Thanks

regardless of where you live.. didnt fall start last week??? and it was recently transplanted ... and its a largish plant ... its stressed ... and finally.. its a deciduous tree ... the stresses are making it shut down a bit early ... i am presuming this is a eastern redbud.. Cercis canadensis ....of which i am familiar... if not.. then my answer might change .... i only mean to point out that your use of a common name can lead to confusion .... so use of the latin name would make it specific .... one of the reasons trees are planted dormant ... is that you dont have leaves to worry about on deciduous trees .... or they are dormant on evergreen plants .... either way.. you usually just dont have to look at something like this.. and then worry ... anyway.. just water deeply and properly with near drying before repeating ..... and see what happens .... see link on watering ... since it deciduous.. there is no use spraying anything on leaves that are going to fall off this time of year ... imo ... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub