It is a relatively new area and I picked up some tips from Ohio State for you to read. You might have better luck ordering over the Internet instead of trying to find what you need locally. Nematodes are formulated and applied as infective juveniles - the environmentally-tolerant, free-living stage that attacks the insect. There are several species and strains on the market today that are specialized for particular host insects, and their temperature tolerance and behavior differ depending on the species. It is critical to choose the right species for the job. Nematodes need moisture in the soil for movement (if the soil is too dry or compact, they may not able to search out hosts) and high humidity if they are used against foliage pests. Watering the insect-infested area before and after applying nematodes keeps the soil moist and helps move them deeper into the soil. Care should be taken not to soak the area because nematodes in too much water cannot infect. Apply nematodes in the early evening when soil temps are lower and UV incidence is lower as well (cloudy or rainy days are good too). Nematodes function best with soil temperatures between 60Fº and 93Fº. Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

I agree with the post that said malathion is better than Sevin on aphids. HOWEVER, my wife and I have almost ALWAYS had good (and cheap and good-smelling!) success with aphids with this soap spray recipe: Mix one cup cooking oil with one cup dishsoap water. This is your concentrate (it separates, so you will have to shake it each time you use it). Take 2 tsp. concentrate into each cup of water. This is your "ready to use" spray. Shake gently as you spray (I prefer a pump sprayer b/c it's easier to get undersides of leaves). The oil helps it last longer and makes the leaves pretty and shiny. The dishsoap smells really good (we use ruby-red grapefruit scented Ajax dishsoap). I'm not anti-insecticide, but this mix is cheap, easy, and requires no hassle with protective equipment or reentry delay or preharvest interval. And it works great (it has failed only in really hot weather, and that's why we keep the malathion on hand - but all last year, we used the malathion only one time).

Uh oh - you didnt really get out of bed to chase him down did you? Bad move. Nothing more fun to a bored cat than a game of Chase Me. Cats who live together play that game all the time - one pokes at the other to get him to chase. Now he's going to keep at it, and if you try to ignore him he'll try 10 times harder to get your attention because you gave in to him that one time. You've already said the squirt bottle doesn't affect him, so ditch that idea. Your cat reminds me of my cat Figgy - you just need to play him hard in the evening - and in the morning. Clear space in your house so he has room to run. Find out whether he's a cat who specializes in stalking/chasing things on the ground or likes to catch flying things in the air, or both. Ping pong balls, super balls, crumpled up tin foil, feather toys on a string, etc. - whatever it takes. 4 or 5 a.m. is an active hour for cats because in nature that's when they'd be hunting, sun up and sun down. The food thing may indeed be part of it - if he's hungry that would explain why he's working so hard at it. With Figgy, who tends to binge eat and get too overweight if I leave food out, I had to remove carbs esp. grains from his diet because that did make him noticeably more aggressive and obnoxious to me and to my other cat Orange. Corn and other carbs can be as addictive a food for cats as tortilla corn chips are to some of us humans (myself included). Is he losing weight? I think you can feed him a little bit more canned without worrying too much about weight gain, as long as it doesnt have carbs in it. Or, feed him strips of chicken you keep in the fridge. My cats get a combination of Into the Wild dry food (no grains) and canned and they are doing nicely. Figgy still loves his food and still a bit on the chunky side but not obese.

Got the chigger problem also. Because the critters crawl up on upper grass shoots and wait for animals (me) to stand still next to the grass wherein they move from the grass to the blood furnisher (me). Unless the animal smells uninviting from that nasty Deet stuff that really works well. Pick your poison. I either spray the lower climb-aboard area with Deet-kind of stuff if I will be outside in the feeding fields, or I do NOT stand still while in the grass. At all. I make sure that there are a fair number of fire ant mounds scattered around the place, since they patrol all over the grassy area looking for food, such as chigger eggs, flea eggs, etc. I am not interested to regularly spray poison all over the property with bunches of fruiting plants to slow down chiggers, which can simply migrate from other next-door unpoisoned property if any chigger vacancy signs go up here.