R. canescens, the Florida Pinxter or Piedmont Azalea, is often confused with R. periclymenoides. Both are medium deciduous azaleas that are found in the Carolinas but can be separated by the flower tubes, which in R. periclymenoides are fuzzy. R. canescens also has tiny hairs, but they are sticky and glandular. Another noticeable difference is that when a flower of R. periclymenoides dies, a ridge on the corolla tube tends to catch on the end of the pistil so that a flower cluster past its prime consists of several dangling blossoms. Although widespread in the eastern half of the U.S., these two wild azaleas differ in distribution. In South Carolina, for example, R. periclymenoides is a Piedmont plant, with almost no specimens reported from the Sandhills or Coastal plain, while R. canescens is predominantly a Low Country plant absent from the Piedmont, except in counties that border the Savannah River. In general, if it grows wild north of South Carolina, it's likely R. periclymenoides; south of the Palmetto State and it's probably R. canescens. Both species prefer moist, humus-laden, acidic soil but seem to do equally well in shade or sun. Old specimens can reach heights of 12-15 feet and have multiple stems or trunks up to 5" in diameter. Deciduous rhododendrons are propagated by seed, grafting or cutting. Deciduous azaleas are very tricky to propagate from cuttings. Tissue culture is used to propagate varieties that are difficult to root. It is a laboratory technique that is very successful. Take cuttings of deciduous azaleas when the new growth is soft and pliant. This is often coincident with time of bloom in early June. The ability to root decreases rapidly as new growth matures. Select cuttings daily for best results. Trim cuttings below a node (overall length of cuttings 3 to 5 inches) and dip in a root hormone containing fungicide. Insert in a medium of 60% peat moss and 40% horticultural perlite. Usually bottom warmth of 75°F is used to encourage root growth. In late August, transplant cuttings that are rooted and grow on in the greenhouse with supplementary light (14-hours a day) to prevent dormancy and induce new growth. In the fall after new growth has matured, transfer to a cool, frost-free cool (35°F to 41°F) environment to induce dormancy. As new growth develops in the spring, transfer plants to a shaded environment. [after "Rhododendrons and Azaleas" by J. Lounsbery, Horticultural Research Institute of Ontario, Canada]

Hey anyone out there have any Hudsonia species? Ever since visiting New Jersey, I've really wanted one of these. I've got all sorts of garden-propagated native plants I'd be willing to trade. Let me know what you want and I might have it.

Take cuttings of firm new growth... apply 0.1% IBA (Rooting hormone) stick in well drained soil & mist takes 30-70 days to root & bottom heat will help.

I guess it depends how much money you want to spend. I have spent the last 10 years propagating native plants on my acres. I collected seed from the local bush. I got to know the seeding times for a lot of plants and researched well the methods of propagation of each species. I just bought bags of prop mix from the nursery. Used punnets, and those plastic trays tomatoes come in as containers. My main problem was keeping water up the the punnets. I used a plastic tent with a plant stand that I bought from Big W. That worked well - I could use a plastic spray bottle in there and keep it nice and moist. But I had to be vigilant. Rain was the best water I could get, so often I would madly move my punnets out into the rain. I purchased a couple of good prop books by Murray Ralph. When it came to pricking out the tiny seedlings, I would get excited ! I had brilliant potting mix that I bought from a friend who ran a propagation nursery. I had tube pots in trays. I purchase a large tank system that I could put the tubepots into. They were then able to be watered via capilliary action which got the roots growing downwards. Many of my plants I have use in my own garden and bushland, an have sold a lot to people in the area for use on their revegetation projects. I have stopped all that now, as I am going to sell my house and move to the city ! Yes I know that will be very hard, as I have put a lot of attachment to my place, after all the work I have done. I would love someone to buy the place that would appreciate the significance and value of locally produced flora. I hope this helps you, I wish you well. Popi